ROFL to last pic, looks so tiny

When I did undo them last time, I did it from under the car, but we have here do it yourself garage where is big lift that lifts car up and I can stand straight under it.

Now I would think that hot/cold treatment would be what helps, ice spray of some sort and run engine so it is hot or heat with some alternative method if putting it back together would be too much of work. Some hammering is good thing to do too, but heat + cold or cold + heat is good. Usually threaded rod like part will undo to and this is not what you want, even in your case it is rather same how they will undo and usually impossible to avoid, lol.

Anyway if putting same parts back it is important that threaded rod like part is in manifold, ok impossible to understand what I mean, I miss now two words from single sentence

Nuts should be copper, at least this is information I got from here so heating will be very effective because steel and copper will expand at different rate and as you get them to hot and cold there will be movement in thread and that will break oxide that is keeping it from not turning, hammering when heated helps in this too, but hammering alone won't do nothing.

I don't know how badly steering parts are on way in RHD model, in LHD model you could take downpipe + exhaust manifold both out from car, just and just, but below car there should be something like 1 meter of space. Then it would be easier to destroy that nut.

Well i'm not worried about destroying anything, i've already taken a hacksaw to the downpipe in the hope I could get it out with the manifold and downpipe together. Was going to use the angle grinder this morning but then I broke the tool for changing the disc and its stuck with a grinding disc on instead of cutting

I'll try a blowtorch on it then, but tbh its more the fact its impossible to get in, the end of the ratchet will only move about 3cm or something anyway

Oh yes, that brake servo comes into way, I have it other side of engine. How on earth you will replace plug no.4 ? I can barely reach it because of airbox and you have brake servo there that takes more space.

Cutting is of course last resort, which will make it surrender, can you cut only nut or do you need to cut whole downpipe?

There we go!!!





Ended up wearing some gardening gloves so that I didn't slice my hands on everything else in the engine bay and just went for it haha, then on goes the new stuff...



No need to grind down the engine mount which was a bonus....



Also when under the car I noticed this, what the hell is the copper connector thing??

Loving the cooler mate.... Gives the car a kind of lazy eye!

Good work! Try removing a downpipe from a car with PAS! Best done from undeneath, with two long extensions, on a breaker bar, and a Universal Joint in there. That's how we did it on one of mine when we removed it.

I think the word Jani is looking for is 'stud' for threaded rod. I understood you perfectly though mate!

Pete

Also when under the car I noticed this, what the hell is the copper connector thing??

That is coolant drain plug, put hose there and open it, nice and clean way to change coolant liquid

Yeah, provided its blocked up with gunkus

Good work. When I did my downpipe I had to use all of my longest extensions coupled with a universal joint but it was still damn stiff.

Awesome mate!!
Adam

Good news that the turbo fits without 'clearance issues'. Excellent work!

What are you going to do for oil supply and drain for that there turbo? I've got some ideas myself, but I'm interested to hear what you have planned.

I've done a DP (and on a PAS car), but it is a complete whore, no two ways about it! Gotta do it from under the car with lots of extensions.

cheers

James

Well i'd be interested to hear your plans as I have none and i'm just making it up as I go along haha, next job is to get those broken studs out of the head, then get some new gaskets, bolt it up properly, then oil lines and exhaust system

You need to weld some metal pipe to oil pan where you connect oil return line from turbo, this must flow downwards constantly, never single section should be at level/straight what is the word, anyway remember always to downhill.

You should weld that pipe so that it is above oil level, idea is to make sure oil can return to sump with least effort from turbo.

Oil pressure you can take from same position where is your oil pressure sender, just put some T-piece there and please use hose from hydraulic shop, that has metal surface.

You can get all hose fittings done in hydraulics shop, at least in here and it is worth the costs.

Exhaust is then something I have no information.

Ok thats good, I can sort the exhaust system with some 3" tubing and the welder I've got the oil return hose already so hopefully that will do, also got the original oil feed pipe which I can take to a hydraulics place, the place that made my cage can weld alloy so i'll get them to do the sump, i'll get some pics of the oil return line at some point, think it was rubber with braided metal over the top but need to double check

edit: Also think i'm just going to block off the water lines for the turbo, it'll always get warmed up and cooled down properly and afaik its fine on non ball bearing turbos or so I heard

thought about using a dry sump system?

The 360 sump pan is pretty well baffled from the factory, so I'm not sure it's worth bothering with a dry sump system unless oil pressure proves to be a problem when you're getting it out of shape.

Given how easy it is to remove the pan on a 360, I'd look into drilling the boss for the stock oil drain line location. Welding a fitting to the pan is another option (seen the pics of the R-Sport setup? That's a good template). Given the space limitations, I'd seriously consider using a flexi-line for both feed and drain, but as Jani says, the drain must be able to act under gravity. You can take the feed from the pressure sender point on the block, or from the pressure test port on the front of the block.

If you want any pics of how it's laid out on a turbo block, gimme a shout...I seem to have one on a stand in my kitchen

cheers

James