So just the parking issue then. I don't care if I get a ticket payable later, foreign tickets get filed in the B1N.

Last I heard was that Umweltzones aren't policed by cameras so it's only if you actually get pulled that you'll have a problem. i got pulled once in Dusseldorf but that was only because the Polizei wanted to chat about my car (I was in my v8 Merc...). They said nothing about pumping nasty gases at a high rate into the atmosphere

I'd missed this too - some great pics, the DLS is looking really well! You're right on the Hercules front, they don't quite look right - but actually better than I'd imagined. Leo's would obviously look good, as well as the 13" 'Luc Luc's'(?). The ATS wheels pictuered - do you think they're 13" or 14"? They're fairly easy to find in 13" but a lot harder to find in 14". Wouldn't mind a set of 14x6" ATS Classics on my GLS, they look nice and period.

V6 Man wrote:i got pulled once in Dusseldorf but that was only because the Polizei wanted to chat about my car (I was in my v8 Merc...). They said nothing about pumping nasty gases at a high rate into the atmosphere

A good job you weren't driving a VW Diesel then I don't think a foreign-plated car should have any problems here, although traffic wardens might slap a ticket on.

SteveP wrote:You're right on the Hercules front, they don't quite look right - but actually better than I'd imagined. Leo's would obviously look good, as well as the 13" 'Luc Luc's'(?). The ATS wheels pictuered - do you think they're 13" or 14"? They're fairly easy to find in 13" but a lot harder to find in 14". Wouldn't mind a set of 14x6" ATS Classics on my GLS, they look nice and period.

I'm not sure, the Rials are 15x6 according to the article, so 14" could be a good guess. The steelies are back on for the moment as I had the alloys balanced, and I have to say they suit the car a lot better Still, winter rubber from 2007 is better than hard summer tyres from 2001, so they'll do for now ...

Cheers

Tom

Sorry for delays (the story of my life). Testing now under way...


IMG_20151007_225518_314 by macplaxton, on Flickr

(Yes that is a screwdriver set from Lidl, and yes I did get fed up with the built-in moulded plastic hanging hook at one end of the case and carefully Dremmeled it off I can sleep now the case is 13mm shorter.)

Now back to packing this regulator up for Mark. Sorry Mark!

Seems to be keeping time okay:


IMG_20151007_234123_013 by macplaxton, on Flickr

That looks great Rich, I'm impressed ... PM on its way!

Cheers

Tom

First evening's work of DIY-servicing yesterday. All standard stuff for most of you, but I don't do this that often so here're some pics

The full Liqui Moly treatment:

10W-40 for the engine (4.5 litres)
ATF for the gearbox (1.9 litres, less than a 5spd)
Hypoid oil for the diff (1.5 litres)
Bosch 0451103219 oil filter with a non-return valve



filled some oil into the filter before fitting:



... tightend the oil sump nut with 25Nm.

Diff cover: some bubbling, but nothing major, it seems to be sound underneath:



out you come:



the diff drainage plug after a quick wipe, very little gunk there:



the gearbox drainage plug before cleaning, looking like a hedgehog:



The washers used indicate that the oil has been changed before in the car's lifetime - main dealer servicing doesn't necessarily mean the correct washers were used though. Problem fixed with some "official" Volvo washers along with some copper ones from Skandix:




Washer part numbers for the gearbox drainage and refill plug:

957181 (up to 1984) available from Volvo (1.48€) and Skandix (0.49€)
947624 (from 1985) available from Volvo (1.13€) and Skandix (0.46€)

The washer part number for the diff plugs (947625) are officially NLA, but the gearbox ones fit perfectly well.

All plugs done up to 42 Nm except the gearbox refill plug - no way of getting a torque wrench into that tight space (no, the screw's not done up yet):



With all the green book checking, jacking up the car slightly for better access to the plugs, swearing, photos etc, it took about 4 hours in all I guess a proper mechanic would get all that done in 20 minutes!

To be continued ...

Tom

PS

This little beauty arrived from Mark and Rich yesterday, many many thanks to you both!

Epic and awesome work. I once put molyslip in a Ford Escort ;-3

Presumeably not having to use a complicated setup of hoses like we did! Refilling the gearbox oil was a bit tricky, there's so little space between refill screw and the fuel tank. A typical "360 problem" I guess ...

More work done last night including the front brakes. The old pads were still OK, but the RH brake was sticking a bit, so might as well fit new ones while taking a look at it all.

Front brake pads from Ebay
3344996
Fitting kit from Dafhobby
3287011 (Caliper bolt, retaining pin, dust cover, grease)





The green book says all you need to do is undo the bottom bolt and the whole caliper swings up. It was all jammed up a bit, we had to undo the top bolt as well to be able to loosen the mechanism sufficiently.

Caliper hung out of the way with a piece of wire:




Pushing the brake piston back in (making sure the brake fluid level doesn't overflow):




Pads in place:



What is that coming out of the wheel hub and why is it only on one side? Hmm ...



All bolts done up to 33 Nm, new bleeder caps fitted:



Refitting a fuel line I didn't like the look of:




Checking the level of the ATF oil in the Zenith Stromberg carb. The green book says you should fill it with oil, until the damper piston starts meeting a slight resistance 18mm above the "neck" of the carburettor. I've got a German-language manual saying the oil level should be 6mm "from the top" (whatever "top" is) which confused us a bit, so we stuck with what the green book says.



Oops, too much!



That's better.



New spark plugs:
NGK BPR6ES



One of the leads needs replacing, it doesn't fit onto the spark plug very well anymore. I'm not entirely sure what the proper connection should be (DIN? SAE? M4?) I don't seem to have the correct ones in my "old lead collection". Will have to look into that.



4.5 hrs work! To be continued ...

Tom

trabitom99 wrote:Bosch 0451103219 oil filter with a non-return valve

What no genuine Volvo 3517857? SHAME ON YOU!

trabitom99 wrote:What is that coming out of the wheel hub and why is it only on one side? Hmm ...

Hmmm...Surely you should know? Don't forget to squeeze the other end of that to disconnect it

The last pic looks like a suppressed cap....

Can you identify the German manufacturer of these caps?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/221285631938

Or on your own ones? I would expect under the dirt, the manufacturer's logo, part number and resistive value? 1k ohm? 5k ohm?

Check the BERU catalogue CATBU1204 and see what there is similar.

Although having said that I see you have resistive plugs there AND caps? Would of thought one or t'other rather than both.

macplaxton wrote:

trabitom99 wrote:Bosch 0451103219 oil filter with a non-return valve

What no genuine Volvo 3517857? SHAME ON YOU!

I have a few in my cellar which I need to use up first

macplaxton wrote:Can you identify the German manufacturer of these caps?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/221285631938

Or on your own ones? I would expect under the dirt, the manufacturer's logo, part number and resistive value? 1k ohm? 5k ohm?

Check the BERU catalogue CATBU1204 and see what there is similar.

Although having said that I see you have resistive plugs there AND caps? Would of thought one or t'other rather than both.

Not sure of the manufacturer on the Ebay ad, but it's Bosch 0 356 301 017 on mine ...



I could get a new one here: http://www.ebay.de/itm/181656996324 but TBH I'd rather replace the whole lead set as it all looks very old, and I don't think it's original.

The spark plug end is threaded (M4? DIN?) but I'm not sure what the connections on the distributor cap side of things are - I don't think they're SAE as my old '88 360 leads didn't fit. There's another connection called "saw-tooth" - I'm not sure if it's that?

The "official" Volvo part number for the whole lead set is 275694 (B19A MJ 82+83). Thanks for the handy hint on the Beru catalogue, I'll check that out ...

Tom

At least you know what is fitted to the car.

The trouble with a lot of aftermarket lead sets are they are usually wrong in terms of length. At least the B14 ones are. Doesn't help the 3 location of coil, never mind the Renix chucked into the mix.

Bougicord usually have lengths listed.

Looking at this further:

NGK online catalogue has:

BP5E (4669) down for a B19A pre-84 (those with the Bosch JFU 4 contact breaker dizzy), they also list

BP5ES (6511) alt (which is the same thing with a copper centre electrode)
BPR5EIX (6597) upgrade (which is resistive and iridium)
LPG2 (1497) lpg

The NGK codes break down as follows (https://www.ngk.de/fileadmin/Dokumente/ ... ode_en.pdf)

B=14mm
P=Projected Insulator Type
R=Resistor Type
5=Heat Rating (2 Hot - 13 Cold)
E=Thread Reach 19mm (3/4")
IX=Iridium
S=Copper core centre electrode

Green book has 0.7mm gap and tightening torque of 25Nm screw thread not oiled

Volvo spark plug set 273597-5 ~ Bob Bosch W7DC ~ NGK BP6ES (a non-resistor plug)
Volvo spark plug set 271409-5 ~ Bosch WR7DC ~ NGK BPR6ES (a resistor plug)

A 5 or a 6 heat rating probably isn't going to be much in it. If I was buying them in I'd get 5s. If I had them to hand, 6s would do me. But as far as plug / HT lead combos go, I'd go with the following:

non-resistor plug / non-resistor plug cap
resistor plug / non-resistor plug cap
non-resistor plug / resistor plug cap

and not:

resistor plug / resistor plug cap as 10k ohms might (probably) make it run like a bag of shite.