Well an hour or so with a dvm and soldering iron proved successful

I removed the old fuel pump live from the headlight fuse (yes really)
Binned loads of plastic trunking from the engine bay and rerouted lots of wiring. Now it's way tidier
Moved the engine management live from the permanent 12v and attached it to the ignition switched live (that was why the battery drained)
Rewired the fuel pump, so it's earthed properly and now runs from the ecu like it should.
All connections are now soldered, not just twisted together.

3 jobs left..

- I appear to have a blobkage in the fuel pickup. Pump gurgles and it won't stay running
- Need the push on earth connector for the alternator. Just a trip down the scrappy will sort that
- I don't seem to have a speed sensor. Just the wire for it. So that needs sourcing.

But.. All good today

No offence to the previous owner but, what a bodge! And I'm the king of bodging (just ask chris)

Good work dude.

The end draws near..... Then you can enjoy it!

Great news mate! Good stuff. Tick list is getting smaller! As I remeber, I think a 440 speed sensor works, if you haven't got one.

it looks like this btw . . .



If you haven't got this, there should be just a plastic tab there instead, and no speed sensor. I say this because I remember Sam saying he had fitted a speed sensor. . .

Ahh, better whip the clocks out then. Don't spose you remember which wire i should be attaching to?

On mine, black is earth, pink to the loom, grey I can't remember at the mo

Without checking, I believe grey to be ignition live.. I'll do some more fiddling tomorrow and let you know

More progress..

Still no speed sensor. I trip to the scrappy didn't turn up any.

Still a fuelling problem. I'm thinking it's being starved by a blockage somewhere. I can start the car (with quite a bit of pedal) aqnd it'll sit there and rev.. But a soon as I pull away , chug chug bang--dead. Then it won't restart, it'll run if I put around 30% pedal down, but it's crackling and banging through the manifold. It's almost like the plug leads are wrong, or the timings way out.. But it drove me 40 miles home.

Still no alternator earth. The connector I pilaged from a V70 didn't seem to fit.. more investigation needed there.

On the good side. I have a centre console again, a door seal thats not falling apart and some rear trim. Looking much better.

Updates.. In search of the fuelling problem (still dunno if it's overfuelling or starvation) , I went for a look under the car.
While I was there, I fixed the handbrake. For some reason it was loosened off as far as the threads would allow (??)

Anyways, I found more pressing issues...

an "interesting" exhaust hanger


another interesting one further up.. looks like the inner from the same cable



Some kind of wadding wrapped round the exhaust. I'm sure the 2 parts aren't joined together and this is just to muffle the sound


And lastly.. Eeeeek


A proper fuel pump bracket has already been ordered. Then I'll get busy with mounting it better and replumbling the pipes away from the exhaust.

FFS, what is that 2 wire jobbie with the red heatshrink for? That entire setup scares me a lot, people wonder why we have trouble modding our cars when authorities see things like this.

Good work on fixing all this, must be a hell of a lot of work you weren't expecting.

Mother of God!! Christ, no wonder your having fuelling problems! Fair play for having the patience to sort this stuff out.

Looks like the standard plastic carb lines are being used still, thats terrible, they aren't meant to be pressurised beyond 1 bar, the williams requires 3 bar (what I'm using any way). I'd replace that whole fuel line system before you use it again, it could be disastrous otherwise. The engine cutting out problem is more than likely because of so much restriction within the pipes, and those curves and bends don't help. You need 8mm internal dia high pressure fuel hose for both the inlet and return pipes. The problem is the carb lines, as they are 4mm internal diameter, or close to that anyway. Theres just not enough fuel getting to the engine through the restricted pipes. 10m of HIGH PRESSURE hose should do the trick, it was enough for mine, with a lil left over.

I shake my head in disgust, honestly. At least the hangers are and easy fix

Chris, the wire could be for the fuel pump? . . . must be.

This car is pretty much a How To, of tings NOT to do.

Good on you for sticking with it and putting it all right TJ. Doing a conversion yourself might have been less work in the end, but at least youll know its all good when youre done.

jon-ovlov wrote:Chris, the wire could be for the fuel pump? . . . must be.

I know.. but why there!

I also used *almost* all a 10m reel of decent high pressure stuff in Fake.

Re fuel lines, I have a pipe cutter and bender, so I should be able to buy a longth of metal pipe and just feed it where the standard one goes. Not sure if I need to change the return or not, what do you guys think?
Funny thing is the engine is behaving like it's overfuelling.. there's lots of noise in the manifold like combustion.. I dunno. Gonna fix the plumbing and go from there. Also planning to take the pump wires into the car and run down the INSIDE of the floor.. Cowboys.. ffs

Was a shocking discovery though

jon-ovlov wrote:Looks like the standard plastic carb lines are being used still, thats terrible, they aren't meant to be pressurised beyond 1 bar,.

actually, these synflex lines will hold 10bar; it's the flow that's the problem. those thin lines are way to small for a 2.0

the 2-wired red heatsinked thingy is also attached to the brakeline, also a no-go.

if i were you, i'd tare all the electrics, exhaust and fuelling out and redo these properly and neat, as it's supposed to be. i wouldn;t spend another minute on getting this sorted out with the current material.