Going to check out the bushings today....as well as to see if there is power in the wires going to the Declutch Servo.

I guess I'll have to see about the clutch shim situation. I have not had the time to check that either.

John

thebear54 wrote:I have not had the time to check that either.

You mean you did have time, but you were playing...

thebear54 wrote:After that I gave up on the electrics and did some playing.

Temporary badging...LOL

"Marilyn" is also being prepped for the body shop (where a chunk of metal will be surgicaly removed from her roof panel and replaced) so the entire rear interior had to be removed and safely stored.

John

It now appears that most of my Electrical issues have been solved. What a nightmare this has been so far.


The Declutch servo is now functioning 100% after tracing back the wiring to this "dangler" under the shifter. Needless to say the connector was cut off and the wire properly soldered back. Push the selector button-servo activates. SUCCESS!

The 343 will start now (with the ignition key) in "P" as well as "N"...as designed.

Now to check the shim situation at the clutch (sometime this week) since the linkage bushings appear perfect.

John

Good work!

Am I correct in understanding that the [s]mechanics[/s] bodgers have tried to circumvent the starter inhibitor to be able to start in D or R? There's such a simple, painless and reversible way to do that...

nvdw wrote:Good work!
Am I correct in understanding that the [s]mechanics[/s] bodgers have tried to circumvent the starter inhibitor to be able to start in D or R? There's such a simple, painless and reversible way to do that...

You are correct...the BODGER tried (and did) circumvent the correct wiring in quite a few places and with the addition of buttons, jumper wires as well as, in some cases, a whole set of new wiring in the harness.

GVD !!!!
John

nvdw wrote:There's such a simple, painless and reversible way to do that...

....and it doesn't even need to be done anyway if it the dunderheid fixed it properly in the first place.

It may have a load of gadgets and extras, but it still doesn't have a UK market idiot bleeper and flasher!

macplaxton wrote: It may have a load of gadgets and extras, but it still doesn't have a UK market idiot bleeper and flasher!

I think you'll find that is a proven "sexy alarm".
Only sounds if the person trying to shift, is sexy.

Sexy Alarm? LOL...that's funny!

Today I had a chance o check out the clutch shims.

Looks as though everything is where it needs to be (set at 0.5mm) Rich.
SO...(thinking cap on) why does she smoke the clutch in PARK when it should be stationary ??


Today I also put everything back together in the center console and steering column. The last of "the Bodger" wiring has been ripped out and everything works as it should.

Except the radio.

John

Is that 0.5mm between the friction plate to the flywheel? (what it should be)

or is your measurement between the cover edge and the flywheel? (what it shouldn't be)

on a new clutch there might be something of the order of 2mm to 3mm of shims at all three locations round the clutch.

If it's still not playing ball. Pull the prop it should slide back enough against the primary unit spring and pop out at the front. The play again with it. If the clutch seems stuck on, then pull the bellhousing.

thebear54 wrote:SO...(thinking cap on) why does she smoke the clutch in PARK when it should be stationary ??

I may have misread/misunderstood you here, but here goes nothing: please do bear (sic) in mind that the P position is no neutral position, it puts the primary transmission in reverse while immobilising the gear with a parking pawl. Revving in P = clutch burn

There....THAT answers my question.
This new fangled Variomatic with a "P" is something I will need to get used to...none of my other DAFs have this feature.

Bedankt voor de informatie

So, now to do a good tune up and set the Carb properly so I can drive it to the body shop for roof repairs.

John

thebear54 wrote:There....THAT answers my question.

The question you didn't ask?

Read the manuals. Read the CVT guide in the tech doc section. Go to the back of the class!

Still, it doesn't answer my question: Why is you clutch engaged at low revs? Either the revs are too high or the clutch is not disengaging.

macplaxton wrote:

thebear54 wrote:There....THAT answers my question.

Still, it doesn't answer my question: Why is you clutch engaged at low revs? Either the revs are too high or the clutch is not disengaging.

That question still requires further investigation Rich.
Can't be because of high revs (idle is set at around 700)

John

Hi bear.
Love the inside of your motor.
I thought i was the only one with an origion ambient temp gauge .
If i were you i would try to get a set of floor trays to protect your carpet.
Cheers Mark.