Urgent 360 towbar

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d3k4y0
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Post by d3k4y0 »

redline wrote:cant see anyone tailgateing you now John
I was thinking the same thing, would be perfect for driving in brum, sometimes the temptation to slam the brakes on with a taxi reading my speedo was very high!
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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn »

Yep, I'm now immune to tailgating! I was really impressed with the quality of the bar, and it would have fitted easily to a saloon. :? However, I just can't understand the wiring kit. I've got the 7 core wire from the plug into the car through a grommet, and half wired in this funny relay box thing/buzzer. But beyond that, I think i need a grown-up. :)
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Post by redline »

the funny buzzer relay thing is just to let you know that the trailers indicators are working ( its a legal requirement in the uk ) once thats sorted its just a matter of finding the right wires on the car to tap into (as per the diagram I posted and an earthing point
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 »

Just out of interest, when did the law on the buzzer come in? As if so, does that mean vehicles made with a towbar without the buzzer or fitted with a towbar before the buzzer rule came in, need to be updated to meet the requirements or not? Just wondering!
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d3k4y0
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Post by d3k4y0 »

petefarrell360 wrote:Just out of interest, when did the law on the buzzer come in? As if so, does that mean vehicles made with a towbar without the buzzer or fitted with a towbar before the buzzer rule came in, need to be updated to meet the requirements or not? Just wondering!
Pete
I'd be surprised if you where expected to retrofit somthing like that, it's probably like the ruling on seatbelts. Where if the car was made with rear belts, or belts have been fitted, then they have to be worn, but if it wasn't made with them you don't have to fit them.

so I'd say if the towbar comes with a buzzer it needs to be used, but not if it didn't
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 »

Hmmm, as I thought! So......... buy an old towbar........ which has obviously always been on the car (lol) so you don't have to have the annoying buzzer!
Pete
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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn »

Yeah I've connected all the wires except the earth and the ones which connect to the vehicle wires. So that's just the two that connect the 7-core cable to the relay. :oops: I'm a bit scared to start chopping into the car wires in case i make a boo-boo. I'll try to get some pointers from a pro tomorrow. sm14 sm38 sm65
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Post by redline »

use the scotchlok connectors like these

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as long as its inside the car that way you avoid cutting right through the existing wires
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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn »

This is what I've got so far:
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Those little connectors are pretty cool, but there are multiple wires to each bulb. Is there a rule as to which wire is the correct one? Or should I connect the earth, then just trial and error it with the light bar connected?
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Post by redline »

filthyjohn wrote: But beyond that, I think i need a grown-up. :)
well I guess unless Macs about , I'm the closest thing you going to get to an adult around here !!!!



I'm pretty sure the indicators and rear fog lights only have two wires each ,

the live feed and the earth so if you identify the earth which should go to an earthing screw on the body of the car ,you obviously need to tap into the other wire ,

thats three connections out of the way,

I know its only a week since the redline went but I cant remember if it had a combined stop /tail light bulb or seperates if they are seperates the above applies,

if combined you should have two feeds and one earth , put your sidelights on and touch a grounded circuit tester on each terminal until one lights that is your rear light feed , trace the earth as before and that will just leave the brake light feed ( If your on your own ,the only other way to test the brake light is to switch ignition on and put something heavy on the brake pedal , a tool box or a small child would do ) .

You can make a simple circuit tester if you have a spare bulb and holder connect a wire to each terminal of the bulb holder then connect one wire to a good earth point and touch the other wire onto each connector on the back of the bulb you are testing , when it lights up you have found the live feed (as long as you have remembered to switch that circuit on in the first place )

oh and dont forget the indicators will make the circuit tester flash on and off .

I dont know how many times an assistant has stood there shouting on , off ,on , off in time with the indicators lol
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Post by Chris_C »

Yeah, Micks basically right ;) On a 300 the earth's are done with a metal strip and a tag on the bulb holder, so finding the correct wire to tap is easy. Stop/tail lights are combined, but just do what Mick suggests with the tester and you'll be fine!

TBH, I hate those scotchlok connectors, they are even more troublesome than screw connectors, but shy of soldering to the wires (which some people seem really dubious of, would it be useful for me to make a FAQ for soldering at some point?) its the only option. That said... if you have any previous soldering experience, go down that route straight away! Scotchloks do die after 18months or so, and they weaken the wire. I also reckon the create a resistance, and therefore a current reduction, but I havn't tested this yet.
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Post by redline »

I'm not that keen on scotchloks either .

But as John is a bit nervous about messing with the wiring I thought they were the most user friendly connecting method ,

no wires to cut or bare and no soldering to worry about ,

just pop them over the existing wire ,put the new wire in up to the stop and then use pliers to splice the plate in before putting the cover over , something even redline junior can do (and has done) .

I am sure if an 8 year old GIRL can do it ,so can John
( waits for the abuse from Gemma, Vicky and Krista )

I have never had problems with scotchloks as long as you only use them in dry dirt free areas such as the boot .
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filthyjohn
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Post by filthyjohn »

Well, thanks for all the help guys. It's not apretty sight but all the lights work.
Video to prove it!
I wasn't having any luck with the scotchloks so i took them off and started baring wires and touching touching them together. I got all the lights to work after some trial and error(and a few glasses of wine), and when I knew they all worked I just twisted the bare wires together and taped them. I'll solder them properly at some future time, but they'll do for now :D Oh yeah, and I didn't bother with the indicator buzzer thing, as it meant five more wires, and therefore five more potential screw-ups :oops: Cheers for all the advice sm4
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