Cambelt Issues

Post by **Carl** » 19 Dec 2006 06:24 pm

The problem is that you dont know if they've already been used before. Not worth the risk IMHO - just pay £20 for a new set.

Post by **foggyjames** » 19 Dec 2006 07:53 pm

They're stretch bolts, but they are re-useable if within a certain length. If they're longer than that, it's time for new ones. Let me know if you'd like me to look up the length...I think it's in the green book.

cheers

James

Post by **Nick C** » 19 Dec 2006 08:03 pm

Think I'll go with the general consensus and get a new set, no point risking it....

That's assuming ECP stock them of course....

Post by **pettaw** » 19 Dec 2006 08:27 pm

Good luck with it, but I'd be constantly driving it with my fingers crossed if I hadn't had it skimmed.

BTW the bolts are expensive cos they're extremely long and high tensile steel. Yes they might well be re-useable, you have to measure the length of them, but Aymat STILL HAS MY BOOKS so I can't tell you the exact dimensions. I would expect to pay a fiver for each bolt.

Post by **Nick C** » 19 Dec 2006 08:41 pm

fiver per bolt? I've just looked and ECP have them for 15 quid plus vat for the set of 10....

Post by **foggyjames** » 19 Dec 2006 09:08 pm

Not trying to discourage you from getting a head skimmed...but...given that the donor car wasn't put out of action in a blaze of overheated goodness (as far as I'm aware)...I think you'll probably get away with it. Usually, it's well worth the money.

Elring are the OE for the Volvo parts (or they were when the cars were new....I think they have now changed suppliers), so if you can get an Elring kit from GSF for significantly less than Volvo will ask...feel free to stick two fingers up at money grabbing Mr Volvo. Usually the parts from Volvo are much better quality than the aftermarket alternatives, but when they're blatently putting a 100% mark-up on parts which are commonly available from the OE, they can bog off!

Ozzy (baby_brick_driver on Tbricks) just popped the HG on his 940 Turbo (B200FT), and popped it back on (after a skim and pressure test, you'll be astounded to hear Andy

) with an Elring kit he got from a local motor factors. IIRC, it was the same kit as for an NA B200.

Having said all of that, I'm sure there are loads of cars running around with cheapy-bargain-tastic head sets fitted with no problem. In fact, if you drove a Peugeot like Steve, it came free at the factory

I suspect my new (a couple of years back) water pump on the 360 is a cheapy one, but I needed it in a hurry at a time when I didn't have time to fix it myself. It pumps water, and it hasn't failed yet...

cheers

James

Post by **Chris_C** » 19 Dec 2006 10:39 pm

Andy, I got Aymat to send the page over, it doesn't mention the dimensions for the bolts, just says don't use them more than 5 times, is there another page?

Post by **Carl** » 19 Dec 2006 10:52 pm

I've always used GSF/ECP parts, I've very rarely gone to main dealers. Not just for the 360 but for all my Euro cars. Never had a problem with them. Quite a few of the parts are OEM anyway, and if there's a choice you can always specify which you want. And I know plenty of mechanics who dont use main dealerships for a majority of the parts they use as they're just too expensive!

As James said, I dont think I'd bother getting a head skimmed unless there was an obvious reason why it should be (eg overheating). Or you were spending big money on a rebuilt engine - which I know Nick isn't, he just wants the car working again for as little as possible!

Post by **pettaw** » 20 Dec 2006 01:24 am

Aymat send the wrong page.

I'm sure it'll work fine, but IMO I wouldn't take the chance. HG's don't fail because of excess pressures or whatever. They mainly fail because the head warps and the clamping force goes, but yeah it SHOULD be fine, but IMO why take the chance.

15 quid for the set

, make sure they're the same grade of tensile steel when you get them

I think the Volvo ones are 10.9

Post by **Nick C** » 20 Dec 2006 05:07 pm

They are 10.9. Got it all back together today, and it runs, bar one minor problem - the header tank hose/rad joint has broken off

so she'll have to wait until I can get that re-soldered....

Post by **pettaw** » 20 Dec 2006 08:38 pm

nice one

Oh you'll have more power too cos IIRC you put an injection head into a carbed one. The injection one has an A-cam which has less low down torque but more power up top. The carb one has IIRC an L-cam (Foggy will correct me on this) which has smoother power delivery but less torque up top.

Post by **classicswede** » 20 Dec 2006 08:51 pm

I have always reused the bolts on these engines myself with no problems.

I would very stongly recomend having the head skimmed tbh. If iff it only needs 5 thou taking off its better than putting the think together and having to redo the whole job.

Post by **foggyjames** » 20 Dec 2006 09:36 pm

Depends on whether or not you swapped cams...
I'd be worried if you had, to be honest, as the carb will most likely be incorrectly jetted for it. See how you get on, but I'd suggest swapping back if it gives you jip...easier than trying to adjust the carb.

Haynes says the B200K has an L cam, but mine had a Y cam in it (and I've heard several references to this). Perhaps the B19A in the earlier 360 carb models had the L cam? Perhaps the B200K in other models had the L cam? Either way, it seems the B200K in a 360 has a Y, which is actually not *that* far beyond an A cam...certainly a lot better than the L!

cheers

James

Post by **Chris_C** » 21 Dec 2006 12:05 am

Nah, he left the A cam in, we have a sneaky plan for sorting out the fueling, as the jetting on that carb is pretty special anyway as stock!

Post by **Nick C** » 21 Dec 2006 12:43 am

yeah, the carb is all over the place at the moment, so I'll sort it out properly once I've got the rad sorted. I'll have a look and see what cam is in the old head too, presumably it's stamped on it somewhere?