3 in 1 is a low viscousity oil we have over here, used for door hinges, bike chains and stuff like that so I'm hoping it's similar! It's a bit too thick for clocks, but ok for bike chains if that gives you an idea. I cleaned with with wd40 (as it's a water dispersent, thought it might chase out what water was in there) then poured the oil in after.

If it doesn't work, I'll head into the east end looking for a dubious bloke and ask where to aquire gun oil

Thanks for the pic mate, I didn't think about oiling the latch, I only did the lock barrel.

I'm pretty sure latch is not appropriate word for that part, but that was only one that comes up to my mind

Oiling that helps with 2nd problem which comes with cold, door will not stay shut, very annoying feature.

Another problem are windshield wipers and washer, mine is currently frozen because too much of cold, my good for -20C washer liquid got frozen

Sick of being locked out with this cold now lol. Need to oil my locks/latches. Had to piss on it before, after going sledging with my mate and his gf (Cow Hil, Ben)

I have one of those crap hot keys but it only melts ice enough for the key to fit in the lock, won't let the barrel turn. I guess this is down to the lock/latch being too stiff?

There's something to be said for RCL, and me sledge is bust.

Personnly I had always the same problem, and I put WD-40 on the lock and on the throotle calbe, but...WD-40 had frozen, and there was shit. So a person advise me to "put out the WD-40" with degreaser, and put some dry lubrifiant, like PTFE.
And now no problem to start in the mornig.
Here now the température is -21°C
We piss on our hand, not on the door here, because we don't want to lost them

It is possible that mechanism inside the door is frozen too, but that happens quite rarely, it is more likely that lock is not fully melt even you can insert key into lock.

Water must be removed from lock, it is no use of oiling them before that, hair dryer might help quite a bit and something is needed which you can use to blow water out from lock, compressed air, WD40, lock de-icer.

Oh yes, one not so enjoyable thing too, when temperatures go down to -10C from near 0C, preferrably right after wet snow has came down to car, then doors are rather impossible to open even if your locks work, door seals will be frozen to doors and that causes major pain, if you use force door seals will get destroyed, but without force door will stay shut.

Winter driving is quite taunting at times

Just read page two. Will blow the locks through with compressed air and lube with gun oil.
Thanks to all for the tips!

As for destroying door seals when the temperature is really low. Use the boot lol. Those seals are easier to get?

jtbo wrote:
Oh yes, one not so enjoyable thing too, when temperatures go down to -10C from near 0C, preferrably right after wet snow has came down to car, then doors are rather impossible to open even if your locks work, door seals will be frozen to doors and that causes major pain, if you use force door seals will get destroyed, but without force door will stay shut.

Same trick, ptfe, talc, dry lubrifiant if the water don't go between the joint and the car (normaly if it's good set) there is no problem

For door seals, use silicone lubricant. They even sell it in a small bottle with a foam plastic applicator. It keeps them from sticking into the door in cold weather. Also as an added bonus, they say it should keep the seals in better shape, more elastic. Of course, silicone oil is a bit troublesome if you ever want to paint the car.

For example (although this Würth stuff is apparently silicone-free) :

Wurth has some great products, rusted bolts can be loosen with rost off that freezes bolts to break rust and it works quite well. Door seal reconditioner without silicone sounds very good, I must find that from someplace, thx from tip.

Those ones with silicone I don't like too much as I need to paint car at some point anyway

If you wan't to get rid of the problem, and not just delay it by oiling the crap filled lock, take out the lock barrel and remove the tumblers. Then clean every part and grease them properly and re-assemble. Lock barrels are usually full of crap which then freezes when cold and tumblers won't move.

I did that and I haven't had any problems with the freezing locks this winter.

Fuse wrote:Then clean every part and grease them properly and re-assemble.

Grease goes hard and 'orrible.

Use graphite powder.

macplaxton wrote:

Fuse wrote:Then clean every part and grease them properly and re-assemble.

Grease goes hard and 'orrible.

Use graphite powder.

Yes I meant proper lubricant for locks, not just common grease. I used word "grease" meaning the proper lubricant. Sorry.

If you haven't prepared properly and greased everything up before hand and get frozen out, the best way I've found in a hurry is to cup your hand over the door lock for about 30 seconds or so. The heat from your hand is just enough to warm the lock up and get things moving. May well not work in the -30 or so that you get up in Scandanavia (at least not before you've got frostbite on your hand] but here in blighty where -5 is usually about the limit it works fine.

You really should not put your bare hand against metal surfaces when it is -30C, moisture of your hand freezes at instant and you find your hand frozen tightly to door and only way to undo this 'weld' is to get hot water and pour it to your hand. Bad thing is that even 20C water will cause huge pain as if it would boiling hot, so best to avoid that situation, it is even more important with other body'extensions'

No problem in mild weather of -5C naturally, well still better restrict actions solely to hands, there might be some serious consequences with other body parts.

For example I got stuck to fence from my tongue, when it was only -10C, it is no phun at all, hot watel hults I was age of 5 back then I just before I was told not to touch fence with tongue...

Mine worked fine today, well, the one I did, I wanted to leave the other to see that it wasn't the world just warming up! WD40, then 3 in 1. I'll strip the lock barrels down when I change the central locking motors next spring