Mine never overheated but I noticed a horrendus use of coolant and the leak. Its apprently common on that cylinder.

I really enjoyed taking it all apart the hardest bits were connecting all the vacum pipes and breathers back up, and then trying remount the exhaust, its mount rigid and didnt line up in the end. I wondered if was bent a little because it was very hard to get off

Mine still starts dodgy but much less steam. it also used really really struggle when first pulled away when cold now it doesnt. I have noticed it does pull too well in 3rd at 40mph

You guys seemed to have got off lightly. When mine went, you freaking knew about it! Blooming steam train it was. Was funny seeing everyone behind me at lights stop a good 20 ft away.

Matt, sounds like it's leaking into the cylinders only then, since no emulsification on the oil cap. B230 it is then eh?

I found taking mine apart pretty therapeutic, in a way. Was a good thing to learn too, first one I've done. Glad I did it myself, was never going to take it to a garage, but I know I saved myself a few hundred quid on labour!

Did you check the compression on the cylinders? Otherwise an injector issue or summat like that might be causing the laggy starts.

john, I didnt properly check compression, I put clean solvent in them and it leak out..it good enough check

The laggy start when cold i put down to water in the cylinder. Im not sure about laggy start when putting your foot down :/

Nimminz wrote:Just hit 70K with no cambelt change too. If it goes, it goes. I'll find something better lol

Dude... this isn't a good thing! Cambelts on redblocks are a three yearly thing from memory? Which I make as you are down 7 changes...

They are an interference engine too

The B200 isnt interference, If it goes it doesnt matter but it isn't a particular difficult cam belt to change (well didnt when i had re-do the timing after the HG)

It is (at least, a '89 plated B200k is). I've had to deal with the fallout of one, bent valves and all.

B200E definitely is interference

oh god I have been told numerous times that it isnt. My timing belt was only changed aboout 3000 miles ago so im ok

3 yearly :/ i thourght it was 6 or every 60k still would put me a few changes down. looked through all the receipts i got with the car ne mention of cambelt anywhere.

Nimminz wrote:3 yearly :/ i thourght it was 6 or every 60k still would put me a few changes down. looked through all the receipts i got with the car ne mention of cambelt anywhere.

Er, do it.

Hi mate.
I second the above post. Do yourself a favour and do it. New belts are
dirt cheap on e-bay and it could save you the price of an engine rebuild.
Take Mr VNDs advice and save yourself a few bob.
Cheers Mark.

aye, think i will. i'll do HG same time

Amen. Did you not have to whip the timing belt off to get the head off anyway? Get it done boyo! Mark makes a very good point.

I didnt have to remove all of the timing belt just off the cam wheel

Just to clarify, ALL engines in Volvo 300s ARE interference and will break things if the timing belt goes. Genuine Volvo timing belts are available for under 20 quid and last time I checked were actually cheaper than the aftermarket ones from a motor factor. Technique and method for changing for a 360 is on my youtube channel.

If you have a cold starting problem, it might not necessarily be the head gasket. If the engine starts but runs over rich for a few seconds then that's just LE-Jet uselessness from cold. If it only runs on 3 cylinders, very different type of spluttering, then its probably the headgasket. When I did mine in the video, you can see, that as well as the head corroding, the water jacket in the block was getting quite badly corroded too.

Hope that helps.