Speedy88's rather unfortunate Green 360 GLS

[Speedy88]

Yeah, I've had a few people say that too. It's ok, I was only trying to get the whole lot out because I don't have any allen key socket set bits. But I'll go out today and buy some and resolve that issue! No worries.

[Chris_C]

Dude, I had this trouble, so spoke to Pete about it a while ago as I too was expecting 340 easy ness. The way to solve all your problems is downpipe off manifold, bellhousing off block. Wiggle it all a bit and it'll fall out, the way you have it might bend the inny bit of the TT.

[pettaw]

There's loads of friction in the clutch area. If its not kept very level you'll never budge it. Much easier to remove the gearbox from the rear of the torque tube first which gives you a lot more space to winkle the prop out of the clutch. Once its out don't press the clutch pedal else you'll lose the centring of the clutch plate.

HTH

[Speedy88]

So this week saw temperatures of around -3 at night and not much more by day...

Monday was my first day off so I jumped into the pug raring to go. Unfortunately the cold had killed it >:( And I had to fork out £130 on a new battery and starter. Ah well, I just hate spending money on something I'm barely going to use after the winter...

Tuesday I was raring to go again and jumped in the pug. New starter was turning and the battery was giving plenty of amps. But alas, it was now not fuelling. Fack! The cold had killed it AGAIN. Later turned out to be a fuel stop solenoid.

So... Tuesday afternoon I finally get going. To the unit!

My problem with removing the box turned out to be 2 hidden bolts on clamps within the torque tube. You'd never know they were there unless you looked.

Friends had told me the problem was most likely with these clamps, it is a common weak spot on 360s. No problem, let's get her out and have a look.





Hmmm... link piece is totally fine. Tested the torque tube and it spins freely. So I focus my attention now on the gearbox. It's making a lovely whine as I turn the input by hand.

I then use a screwdriver to select a gear and try turning again... clunk. clunk. clunk.

That'd be my gears welded together then. Diagnosis complete! I expect that in the next couple of weeks an epic journey to find rare parts shall happen. Until then, no more real progress.

But I'm really happy, I'm on schedule and I know what I need. I really can't wait to go skidding now ;D

Piece out.

[SteveP]

While youre on a hunt for a new box, I'd try finding one from a GLT (probably more common anyway) as that way you'll get the 3.64 diff for better acceleration. Although the specs say GLS's should've had the tall 3.36 diff I'm certain this doesn't apply all of the time. Out of interest, what diff does yours have originally? There should be a tag on the diff that says.

[Speedy88]

Ah I'll have to check. It's welded anyway and I'd rather not weld up another one, they're getting pretty rare!

[mat_91]

hmm now just a thought but the gearboxes are just standard volvo m90s rolled on the side could you transplant the gears out say a 7series m90 and bang into yours or the hole gearbox with the differnt front and end plates of the 360 into it
now that is a complete shot in the dark but i should work right

also i think you can just bolt up your front torque tube mount on a 340 gearbox bascilly just swapping over the front housings never done it but there are the same gearboxs so no reason why it shouldnt work

[SteveP]

Ah I'll have to check. It's welded anyway and I'd rather not weld up another one, they're getting pretty rare!

Is the diff in this box ok? If so I'd be tempted to use that with your new box in that case. You wont drift (for long) with an open diff

[Cliché Guevara]

It is a cnut of a job,got my gbox out yesterday and the ttube but didn't have to remove the exhaust.However I wish I had disconnected the fuel lines, I managed anyway.I found that undoing the axl beam and shifting is back a couple of inches helped a great deal.As the car has always been garaged there were no siezed bolts so it all came apart easily.Now I just have to get to those hard to reach bellhousing bolts.Once the clutch is out I'll measure it up and post pics.

A big thankyou to this thread BTW as I was not aware of the two hex bolts joining the ttube to the gbox.So once again thanks this forum is proving invaluable especially as I have no Haynes wonderful book of lies to help me

[Speedy88]

Awesome, glad it was of help dude

[Evoman]

I was told that moving the axle was required but a few people told me not so. I was told so by a garage, I assume they prefered doing that as they could get the job done sooner and moving parts around isnt so much of a worry

[Cliché Guevara]

Here are the pics.As you will see the friction plate does not cover the whole pressure plate.Is that normal?

All in all I reckon a new friction plate is all that I need

[Speedy88]

Yep that is correct, I'm not sure why either I've seen it on other cars too. As long as it grips, it's all good but if you're doing the clutch it might be worth replacing the pressure plate too.

[Cliché Guevara]

Well the machine lines are still visible and no signs of heat damage so I'm going to stick with it.I may pay the price later down the track but close to $600 for a full kit over here I'm prepared to take the gamble.

I'm also on a tight budget so lets hope this isn't a false economy too.Everything about this car screams overengineered and cared for so fingers crossed.

[volvodspec]

I was told that moving the axle was required but a few people told me not so. I was told so by a garage, I assume they prefered doing that as they could get the job done sooner and moving parts around isnt so much of a worry

the manual states that you have to do it to get out out; that isn't true it just gives a lot more room to work with, i usually loosen the rear leafspring bolts and the rear brake hose (and replace it since it only costs about €10) and swing the axle forward (so no potential extra work on handbrake cables) then you have all the room that you want