I think he is referring to the bearings in the front wheel hubs which you have drift out without damaging the part-rubber sealing ring, if you're not going to replace it.

bogbasic wrote:I think he is referring to the bearings in the front wheel hubs which you have drift out without damaging the part-rubber sealing ring, if you're not going to replace it.

In that case the wheel bearing kit should have a rubber seal in it, been ages since I did them on my first 360 so I can't remember what I did to remove them.

A few quick comments on suspension etc.

1. Strut bottom ball joints. Bolted to wishbone, taper fit to strut. If you have no "special tool" or fork type wedge tool then a smart hammer blow on the casting around the taper (nut partially removed) should shock the taper free - just walloping on the nut very rarely works.

2. Track rod ends. Threaded on to the end of the steering rods secured with lock nut. If no press tool use hammer to shock taper free from eye of steering arm (part of strut). Before taking the old one off measure from a point on the steering rod to the ball joint taper "pin" - fit new to same dimension.

3. Wishbone inner rubber bush. Press out with mandrel or socket (in large vise) into larger socket (use rubber grease or washing up liquid). Install new (with same lube) with vise. Threaded rod and washers will also work. (I use a large woodworking vise to open wide enough).

4. Front wheel bearings. Unbolt caliper from strut - hang out of way. Remove bearing nut and washer, pull off hub/disc assembly. Prise out rear grease seal (push fit into hub). Remove inner (large) taper roller bearing with integral inner track, same with outer (small) bearing. Wash out hub. If you do not have access to "special" mandrels carefully tap the bearing outer races from the hub with a long parallel punch (brass if possible to avoid marking hub bore).
If your front brake discs are at all suspect - now is the time to change them!
Install new bearing outer races with brass drift or old bearings - try to press in rather than knocking (avoid "bruising" the races). Grease the new bearings well, install inner and fit grease seal. Fit hub/disc to stub axle, install outer bearing, washer and new hub nut (should be in bearing kit). Whilst spinning hub, torque nut to 54Nm then BACK OFF by 90deg.
Stake nut to stub axle.

By 'eck Andrei - your weather is worse than a British Summer.

Keep up the good work - let us know if we can help you in any way!

Mac.

I think I misunderstood. I now follow a la MAC-point 1. Andrew is asking about separating ball-joints and how not to damage the rubber gaitor. I would recommend one of these which I think is the least destructive tool you use and is good value for about a tenner.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-Ball- ... +separator

Thanks guys, this helped me a lot. Dismantled most of the suspension today. Full report to follow soon.
I've got two quick questions, while suspension is off:

1) i found suspension spare bushings, can you recognize where they're supposed to go:
i've got 2 double-conical things, two like a a dumbbell, 4 like mushrooms and 4 fat cylinders with another small cylinder protruding on top. Which of them i can install while wishbones are off and where?
i know i'm supposed to look to the diagram but i've just returned from the day in a garage and its now 2am((




2) On one side what seems like a bumb stop (hard rubber Doughnut) and a metal cup on top of it have fallen down the shock rod.
How they are mounted so i could return them back to original location?

Hello Andrew

the mushroom one is for the rear shock absorber. The straight dumbell ones are probably for the wishbones. Conical ones and others I don't know sorry!! The shock absorber looks like it is damaged badly! I think the metal cup is supposed to be welded on to the strut top mount and is what the top of the rubber gaitor clings on to ? ? ?

ttfn, merry Crimbers.

Hi Andrei,

Double conical - wishbone end of anti roll bar link.
Dumbell - ends of anti roll bar.
Mushroom - bottom end of rear damper.
Fat cylinder - top of rear damper.

The metal cup sitting on top of the front strut bump stop SHOULD be be spot welded to and be part of the front spring upper mounting - acts as a receiver for the bump stop and as a mount for the protective bellows around the strut rod.

Need to be repaired - or spring mount replaced.

Schastlivogo Rozhdestva! - Mac.

Mac, shouldn't you be working?

HO, HO, fffffffin HO.

Delayed by split hoof so left late - back now!

K. Kringle.

Merry Christmas, everybody.
Mac, bogbasic, 360beast, MCHUDD, macplaxton - thank you for paying attention to my build and for your valuable insight.
I can't describe how much this helped and supported me.

During the last few days i learned to mig weld. I desired this for a long time and now finally done.
I welded driver's footwell to the inner sill so now I'm not able to reach tarmac with my foot.


All now stiff and solid. Also filled other misc holes. A piece of outer sill just fell off when i jacked the car and i sorted this too. Because now i can=)
Middle sill was missing some pieces so i seamwelded it with bits of new metal.


On top of new fuelpump and a starter for this season i've got new wishbone balljoints, wheel bearings and wishbone bushings.
For the wishbone i took Lemforder 10203 02, which is not from volvo, but fits right in by all dimensions.
I'm not a fan of such redneck engineering, but it fits right and proven by other owners and the whole suspension bits cost me just 12 GBP. Instead of 40 for just the original bushings. Which is unreasonable for a car that was taken away from junkyard for 100GBP.


So i dismantled front suspension. It was easy with your instructions and all the bolts broke loose with reasonable sized breaker bar.


I seem to be loosing one brake shield because it rusted beyond saving, but that will work i hope for a racecar.


The bushings were pressed in a shop with a hydraulic press, no problem with that.
Bearings got less lucky, because service man tried to drive the outer race in hammering it with the old inner part of the roller.
So the race was scorched a bit. And then he drove it in with a hammer and the shell of an old bearing.
Will see how it turn out, hopefully ok.
You appreciate a good service as a gift here and this happens not often at all.



Anyway, i'm assembling all back. Can't fit the new poly bushes for the antiroll bar links. They are stiff an a bit too large.
Need to decide something with them. Maybe to cut them from one side or to squeeze with worm clamp to reduce outer diameter.
If you know the right answer please let me know. I'm struggling with both bushes of the ARB link, top and bottom.

But i don't consider this as a big problem.
Overall, i'd like to wish you all a merry Christmas, happy new year and all the best for the upcoming year.

Awesome work - you won't have to drive like Fred Flintstone anymore ;-0

Here's my econo-style hydraulic press:



... the sachet of grease helped a lot ;-0

That was 12 years ago, though and when I cut out the old inner wishbone bushes they were in very good condition so replacing them was probably unnecessary.... partly why I follow the CBA school, now.

The Macs have a sharpness of wit.

i'm close to going to machine shop to make some conical guides to install these bushings.

Can you boil water where your car is? If you drop flexible bushes in some very hot water for about 10 minutes and then use thick rubber gloves to protect your hands, they might fit a bit more easily?

Evening all,

Firstly Andrei, may I express my deepest sympathies to your country for the recent TU154 crash - especially for the loss of the Alexandrov Ensemble - a truly great choir!. And of course for Yelizaveta Glinka. The "West" unfortunately often sees only the bad side of Russia when there is so much good to be found.

I agree with Bogbasic that hot water may help you soften your ARB bushes - the OE rubber ones are hard enough to squeeze into the wishbone - let alone poly bushes! (Do you happen to know the "Shore" rating of them?
My concern would be excess flexing being passed into the upper surface of the wishbone - I would worry about fatigue cracking.

Bad garage, bad garage, you will almost certainly now have bruised outer races - probably shortened the bearing life by a degree. (They are hardly "over engineered" anyway). If you find you need to replace again in the future I can measure a set of "factory" mandrels for you.

When you come to repair the spring upper cup carefully look at it's top surface which accepts the top bearing (small) for any cracking - these spring cups are prone to fail, as are the top mounts - all of which leads to very heavy steering!
And whatever you do - use proper coil spring clamps!!!

All my best for the new year - Mac