Hi

I decided to make a proper board for stimulator too as I got tired of looking the wire mess. It's also nice if the stimulator is needed later with troubleshooting. Some pics of making the pcb.

UV-mask printed on to the laser transparency film. Second pic shows the UV-sensitive pcb template with the protective plastic still on.



I used a normal worksite halogen to develop the mask pattern on to the board.




Developed mask pattern on the board. Next step is to get rid of the protective laquer from everywhere else but the masked part. For that the board is dipped on to the sodium hydroxide (NaOh) solution.



After this the board is dipped on to the sodium persulfate (Na2S2O8) solution. Sodium persulfate etches the copper from the areas which are not protected by the protective laquer and the final result is an almost ready pcb. Solution works best with heated water so I used the surroundig hot water in the sink as a heat buffer for the solution in the container.

After etching we need to drill the holes for components and wipe off the remaining protective laquer with etahanol spirit. Now the board is ready for soldering.







Board came out pretty nice even though I did etched it quite quickly. Couple small faults can be seen but those were easily fixed with some copper wire and solder.

MegaSquirt is quite ready. The board version is V2.2. Only things missing are the FETs and LEDs for the board but I'll solder the FETs when I'll install the board in it's casing. The casing will work as a heatsink for the FETs.

Stimulator is the board at the most right.


What's in the YES-bag? Well it contains some proper industrial connector components which I picked up today as I don't like the unprotected D-SUB connectors in exposed enviroinment.



These have to be some of the most expensive connector pins I've ever bought. 1 euro a piece, gold plated.



So that's what has happened. Next step is going to be the wire harness.

I'm also going to be doing some welding in the inner wheel wells at the front. Aukki is probably going to provide me with some healthier parts. Pics will follow when there's some progress.

I also bought a Hella-grille but it doesn't fit yet as the aux-lights interfere with the intercooler so I'll have to adjust the intercooler position a bit.

Great job on that board Fuse, looks like a really good etch.

I agree with your choice of connector too, those are much better than D types for a car enviroment.

Almost done with the box. Only missing one hole for the serial connection plug and heat sink attatchment for the two FETs.

Looks professionally done, very neat!

Love the car

Some crappy cell phone pics of the battery relocation I did couple of months ago




Aukki also did "some" welding for my car couple days ago, some info here: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 15#p132099

I've also bought a newer style "+90" turbo manifold, which I'll be installing soon..

Megasquirt is complete, only harness is missing. I'll be finishing that soon. More pics later.

I did some more protective painting for the previously welded inner front wheel wells today.



Tomorrow I'll be laying topcoat and some underbody coating.

Hall is a bit crowded as my sister's boyfriend is fixing his parents' Peugeot 206. We dropped the Peugeot's rear axle today and found out that the axle hub is totally corroded.. Design fault with the needle-bearing setup from the beginning. We'll have to check if they can have the axle fill welded and machined or do they have to get a new axle.. There would be no problems if they would've added a grease nipples on to the axle from the factory.




There's also his mint factory condition Peugeot 306 Cabrio under the blankets, with electric roof and other working accessories. I'm not in to the Peugeots usually, but that Pininfarina designed Cabrio is a very nice looking car.

Inner front wheel wells are done for now. I finished the topcoat yesterday. Some before - after shots. Again, huge thanks to Aukki for the actual welding job.

Before:




After:





I also soaked the whole area with Dinitrol and sprayed some underbody coating on to the wheel well but I didn't took any pics of that.

I test fitted the aluminium Lokari interior mudguards also, those seem to fit well. I didn't install those yet as the underbody coating wasn't dry enough yet.

I've done some cleaning for the headlights I got from Aukki. These are with black casing, I've never seen ones with the black casing, though these were from MK2 car. There was also a bit of a surprise with the silver inside of the casing.

Needs some TLC

(Washer motors work!)


First we'll take out the reflectors and spray them with dish washing liquid and rinse them afterwards.



Quite good for +25yo reflectors I think.


Soo I started to clean the interior of the casing with ethanol and it was quite a surprise that the silver paint started to buff out. This made me wonder if it was painted afterwards. I've never seen any black casings before, so I can't tell.



Actually this was a good thing because my plans were to paint the interior black, but now I just had to wipe it clean with some Xylene and the result is a stock blackened out headlight casing.


Next I'll have to wash the glass and lubricate the washer motors and assemble the lights. These should give much better light power as the ones in my car have badly chipped reflectors.

I have a black casing light here, the silver is factory.
Adam

Hello

I've been doing some maintainance for the front wheel bearings and brakes. No brake parts or bearing parts are available from Volvo anymore except some repair set for the calipers! Luckily there are lots of aftermarket parts to choose from.



I was wondering why quite a large amount of play appeared suddendly on to the left front wheel. Yesterday I had time to check it and I found out that the hub nut was completely loose. I noticed the play on the wheel and drove about ~300km before I had time to check what's the problem so quite a luck that the wheel didn't came loose. It appears that when the bearings were changed at the shop in 2006 or something the hub nut wasn't properly crushed from the top so it had loosened it self...

The caliper carrier studs on the other hand were more than enough seized... We run outo of juice with the 3/8" impact wrench and a socket wrench with ~30 inch extension only caused some disformation to the socket wrench.

Luckily the angle grinder is quite universal tool for all bolts.. The bolts might've come loose without cutting if we would've had a welding torch to heat the bolts.



Remaining studs came loose in a vice grip with the help of a very large pipe wrench.

One slide pin was completely seized so no wonder the brakes felt odd and made squeeky sounds.



Brake shields were quite rotten. New ones aren't available so I'll be adapting the 700-series rear disc shields which seem to be quite similiar size. I'll be getting those tomorrow.




Locating the new bearing cups.



FAG bearing sets, I asked for SKF but the local parts store would've had to order those so these will do just fine as FAG is equally good. Original Volvo set is a combination of SKF/FAG I think.






Nice DS2500 pads from Ferodo Racing.

Nice work, Fuse!

Fuse wrote:No brake parts or bearing parts are available from Volvo anymore except some repair set for the calipers! Luckily there are lots of aftermarket parts to choose from

That really is unbelievable. How hard / expensive can it be to keep brake pads in stock? They're still in production as the same parts are used by some VWs / Audis ...

It wouldn't surprise me if one day Volvo said "Oil? No longer available for a Volvo 300".

Cheers

Tom

Fuse, is it possible the use the Volvo 44-2-2 flywheel with megasquirt?

Thanks,

Frits

Thanks Trabitom!

Frits, it's possible but I don't know if the most recent versions of Megasquirt can run on 44-2-2 directly or does it need a some kind of a wave converter circuit like it used to require. I haven't yet read much about the ignition side of the MS because I'll be running the fuel side only first. I'd like to use the 44-2-2 pattern also though when I'll also start to use the MS ignition, so it wouldn't need any additional trigger wheels.

I got the brakes finished today and the pedal feel is great with the Fedoro pads and other stuff. The brake shields of 700-series didn't fit because those had deeper dish so it interfered with steering parts. I didn't install the shields as it'll be fine without those also.. If they require those at MOT i'll fabricate something.

I also noticed that the lower radiator hose was leaking. Of course it's NLA at Volvo and also for B19/B200 it's unavailable as an aftermarket part! I bought a long rad hose meant for some other Volvo, maybe 700-series if I remember correctly and adapted that with some cutting.

I also changed the fuel hose at the pump end. I had too tight bend installed there so it was cracked a bit. I swapped it to more flexible hose.

Some OEM stuff and de-ricing... Time to get rid of the cone filter sucking hot air.. I bought an original filter box of the R-Sport turbo kit. It's the same as the one in K-Jet turbos but with different top suitable for intake plumbing instead of K-Jet's fuel distributor/airflow sensor. This goes in at the same time I'll tidy up the engine bay otherwise also.



After some cleaning and paint.





I'll be modifying the base a bit to run a larger intake from the base to the front of the car.

looking good, airbox looks a nice find!