Your civicshrine ? oh dear

Stefan, this might be interesting for you?

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... 0398676712


Cheers

Tom

Black Beauty now has an MOT ;D, tested this morning and got a pass so i have had for second hand replacement tyres put on and will tax it this afternoon.

CVT is not canging up so it is very revy but will hopefully sort this in the next few days then just the body work.

Hooray, another 343 saved How did you fare with the rear windscreen?

I have some vario parts left over which I didn't need for my 343 (4-way-valve, membranes (diaphrams?)) if you need any, just give me a shout ...

Tom

PS Any pics of the car?

Will try and take a few picks later today after i have washed it.

Great news!

Still needs a wash but here are some pics





will do a few more little jobs on her today

Looks Ubercool man.
Wouldnt choose black and red for 300 colours myself, but the beast certainly does look handsome.

A splendid, hugely rare car! Well done ...

Tom

Nice:D

That is gorgeous... congratulations for getting her running again Stefan

Hi people i have spent alot of time working on the volvo with a friend of mine but it is still not changing up.

Any ideas all welcome as we may have missed something.

Vacum working fine
brake pedal swich working fine
accelarator swich working fine
low ratio hold swich working (light coming on on dash)

not getting a 12v feed to pin 5 on the tachometric relay but if i put one direct it just blows the fuse.

the car reaches about 4500rpm at about 30mph so is very noisey and very slow any help would be fantastic.

regards
stefan

light coming on on dash is NOT a test!!! i really don't know why everyone thinks it is, that light only means that the switch is on, nothing more and nothing less "big deal"

find the 4way valve in the engine room, loosen the thicker hose wich goes to the gearbox underneath, it is on the leftside in a 343 (coil has a gellow/green and brown wire attached)

next, start engine if you get instant vacuum from this hose on the 4wayvalve, you found your problem. use a multimeter to indicate if 12v of current is on the coil while its sucking. sucking without 12v on the coil means that the tiny rubber valve inside the 4wayvalve is broken.

don't get vacuum, turn the swith on and then you'll be getting vacuum. (if it IS working properly), turning switch off will need to make sure that vacuumleak is instantly gone.

also check if it gears up, release thinner hose that goes to gearbox from 4wayvalve, start engine and run it at 1800+ rpm, should be coming about 0,4mbar (ideal factory setup, is reality this is very variable!!) of vacuum you can feel this by putting your finger against it, or connecting a vacuum gauge.

other possibilities:

primary gearbox membrames intact? (blowtest)
vacuum clutch release system working properly?
clutchplate airgap adjusted between 0,1 and 0,3mm?

Hi I looked at the car with Stefan, when we fitted all the wires back up to the carb from the 4 way valve you could push the brake pedal and you would get a click from the breaking side of the valve, this is now dead for no reason, as stef says there seem to be no power to the tachometric relay, if you use a positive power and tester you can get a signal from the low hold switch and the brake pedal high pressure switch at the block which connects to the tachometric relay.
if you put a power to the relay into pin 5 it blows the fuse.

we are more used to working on the DAF circuits which are really easy to understand. there seem to be no power at all going to the 4 way valve.

the diaphragms are fine and so is the clutch, the vacuum clutch is also operational.

to make matters worse the fuse box lid must have come from an earlier model as half the fuses don't correspond to what they do.

thing is we don't want to cause damage to the tachometric relay.

are there any relays inside the car or wires behind the dash which could have come adrift as we found that the brake lights didnt work but we found a wire that had come off. we are fresh out of ideas.

thanks

Paul / stefan

oops, misread that part

once you understand the tachometric relay, it is an easy system aswell for that part

the electric system of that black beauty has fuse 3, 8A for the tachorelais. there is no relay or anything in this, feed comes straight off the fuse.

you can also check these:

point 6, resistance measurement to ground. if this is attached to ground the kickdown/brake pressure switch/low ratio hold switch are good, apply them one by one, if you release them the multimeter should instantly go to 0 Ohm.
point 4, resistance measurement to ground, ideally is 0 Ohm

if you take point 4 and point 5 off the tachometric relay, what do you get if you make a resistance measurement on those?
what happens if you put in a new fuse without tachorelais attached?