foggyjames wrote:I've got an 'odd' strut...

Like a Pimp.

To do that nut that holds the shock tube in place I've got a large size box spanner which I then put a bar through. And yes all the factory ones I've come across have been direct fill rather than insert. Although as Mac quite rightly says you bought inserts from the dealer when you wanted to change them.

Oh and usually if you undo the top mount nut a few turns with the weight of the car on the spring it works, although I have had to use slightly more 'interesting' methods of holding the thread still!

HTH

BTW great thread Mac!

Just a quick comment on Monroeshop - I understand your concern Tom.

I don't know if they are entirely "good" but I can only speak as I find. The site looked ok, for me there were contact numbers (which worked) but I admit no address
- easy to find however as there is a company reg.no. on the site which allows you to locate them.
With the added protection of being able to pay by paypal I gave them a try.
On ordering I rec'd a confirmation e-mail, the next day an e-mail advising shipment.
The next day my order arrived.
the springs were in Monroe boxes, are correctly marked with the correct Monroe part no, and fit my struts.
Monroe claim they are suitable for B14 (10.7mm wire dia) and B172 (11.0mm wire dia). The supplied springs have a wire dia. of 11.0mm.

"history" suggests you use them with some caution - but for me they seem to have been fine.

Co.name Dotcomshop Ltd. (Monroeshop.co.uk)
reg.no. 04503980
vat.no. 115299805

Sales and service 01562 512505

Registered office, Unit 12, Buntsford Hill
Stoke Pound,
Bromsgrove,
B60 3AR.

Mac.

UPDATE

Afternoon all,

Been neglecting the project! - I plead family matters and wandering about.

Preparing to pull the motor has resulted in a bench full of bits.





Once the engine is out I can get the mounting beams and suspension arms off to powdercoat and start cleaning the engine up.

Oh - and yes, I did paint my new springs red - he, he, he (that's a class win gone then).



Mac.

UPDATE

In my quest for that "as new" look

Been working on the manifolds - separated them, cleaned them up and :-
Treated the inlet with Eastwood "Aluma Blast" (a spray on aluminum coating.)
And the exhaust with Eastwood high temp "Manifold Paint" (takes up to 1200C)





When the rain stops I'll av the motah art.

Mac.

Wow.
Eat your dinner off of that. (but dont)

Mac, i don't know the specific details on that paint; but heat-resistant paint will stay on/last much longer if you pre-bake it before bolting on/starting the engine

volvodspec wrote:but heat-resistant paint will stay on/last much longer if you pre-bake it before bolting on/starting the engine

But he'll have to send Mrs Mac down to the shops or something so he can sneak it into the oven.

Shhhhhhsh!

I actually cured it in our gas powered kettle barbie ! (with a 22g baffle between the manif and the flames)

Mac

They look stunning.

If I thought I'd get away with it... I might... Tart

Here goes any chance to us mere mortals getting anywhere in a BKV in the next few years

UPDATE

Evenin all,

Motah out at last



Usual fuss with prop not wanting to move but all in all an easy afternoon.



leaving a horrible engine bay,



Engine has been apart so I shall limit myself to "sprucing it up a bit" with a general clean and repaint,



little bit of "polish" on the fingers - oh well I've got one in stock ............



Tomorrow I have the susp and engine beams off - they'll go to the same place that powder coated the wheels.

Now to enter the poly tunnel that connects my cave to the bathroom - house rules - "you will go to the bathroom, you will go straight to the bathroom, you will not pass the bedroom, I will bring you an old towel,
you will not leave the bathroom until you have showered and scrubbed those arms/legs/bit as appropriate.

Mac.

UPDATE

Afternoon all,

A nice easy morning thought I - engine and suspension beams off and a quick clean ready to go for powder coat.

Engine beam came off no probs but the suspension beam bolts had absolutely no intention of co-operating (they go into
tubular, welded in inserts in the chassis rails). Normal socketry - nope, biggg socketry, nope, air gun - nope,
bigg socketry plus longggg bar - insert broke off in chassis after bolt moved about 5mm. Throw tantrum !!!
(quick try of others - just as tight!.)

Tantrum didn't help - cutting holes in chassis to get to inserts did. Much penetrating goop and a bit of heat (great
care on the n/s as fuel lines run in box section!) and out the little beggars came.



Beams out at last,



The pile for powder coat grows - now let me see, what colour shall we have pink, or a nice mushroom perhaps?
Nah just kidding - satin black methinks.



I'll cut out the seized bolt/insert, thread a steel tube of the appropriate size and weld it in - ho hum.

Mac.

the subframe bolts are loctited in AND a bit too long to make the part that comes through the welded inserts corrode, with enough heat from a torch they do come out with normal 1/2 tools just fine though

Fakes had a paddy to when I did them a couple of years ago, ended up stud converting them, keep meaning to do a proper job with thick wall tube through the rail and long bolts