Maybe some people are using poor brakingtechnique? Brakes should be applied quite sharply and as short as possible. Having your foor trail the brakes is a definite no-no. Anyway..it works for me..maybe I have some kind of magic volvo but I rather doubt that.

With regards to the LSD...I disagree strongly with the notion that no LSD is needed..
Even with the increased track in the rear (ET20 rims, 7inch wide) the rear inner tire will lift into the air in any serious corner. I have whole sections of the Zandvoort track (from the Tarzan corner to Hugenholz..for those familiar with the track) that there is ZERO traction. An LSD or locker is a must have for any sporty use, certainly when using serious tires. (rallying might be different because of the lack of traction).

I'm going to try and modify the diff housing so that a dana30 locker diff will fit. I have seen 240 LSD in original 360 housings before, so I'm taking a gamble and hoping I can make it work.

The dana30 locker diffs can handle massive amounts of power and are dirt cheap to buy (from 150dollars om ebay).

I have always been wondering how V360Cup guys can make decent laps at Zandvoort as there is several places where LSD equipped car just flies past no LSD car.

V360Cup car's has no LSD as don't allow it.

I can imagine how it feels to drive trough Tarzan corner to Hugenholz when car just won't go faster even there is power one tyre is just spinning on air.

I have driven that track only in Simulations, but I think I know those few places where 360 just is letting down

Now then, I have stock springs at rear and also no lowering at all, there is lot of travel in suspension at it makes problem worse.

Braking, yes I must say that I do rest ny foot too much on pedal, I'm still learning to brake properly and I'm not hitting pedal enough hard. I feel that I will be in too hurry to turn sift and brake when I use brakes properly. That is one thing that I just need to learn. Maybe better seat would help there too as I'm sitting everywhere else than on seat at corners, lol. After corner I need to rise and reposition back to seat, very annoying, specially left turns as I'm sitting practically middle of car, luckily seatbelt restricts movement a little, but I have no space to change gear as I'm leaning to gear stick.

Anyone has same problems with stock seats when driving hard?

Oh, my helmet is against roof as I'm too tall into car with helmet, I have adjusted seat so that it leans lot backwards, so I can somehow fit there, but not very good.

Maybe I really should upgrade my seat before my brakes?

Some harness might be a good start, even if you couldnt afford to upgrade your seat straightaway. I've used them in the past in normal seats and they do help a lot over the standard seatbelt.

In other news I've just been offered a 480 Turbo for free. It's an early one so I dont think it's gonna have vented brakes that I could borrow, but I may have the alloys off it. Then again I might just keep it, get rid of the Citroen and have 2 volvos

Here we go then guys, due to the weather I didn't get them off Beast so no part numbers, but I did get some piccies!

Erm, I have no idea what I'm looking at, the vented bit looks very thin, but here the are the pictures (guess which car I havn't used for a month or so.....)

Hmm, are those standard 360 calipers ???

I took few pics from my tyres:

http://www.janiervast.com/kuvat/volvotemp/renkaat/

Most of melted rubber debris is already gone as I have driven over 1000km after last track day, but you can see how sidewall of tyre is against road when cornering hard.
If your road tyres are not looking like this, you just ain't driving hard or you have much better tyres

I'm afraid I don't know mate, I don't have a standard 360 to check against and can't find any part numbers! Anyone else out there tell us?

It does look like std calipers but the pads are well meated so there is no way they would fit.
It does look like it could have come out the factory like that but I doubt it somehow.

Do the brakes seem better or do you not push them enough to find out?

Dai

I only drove her about 1200m before the mot run out, and if you look hard enough in the first picture you can see on of the reasons why I didn't get her re-MOT'd. You can just see the drivers footwell carpet from that angle. And thats one of the better bits of rust .

When I got it, it had been sitting around for a while, and the first few times I drove it it was a bit naff brake wise (symptons similar to above posts, the brake pedal really had to be pushed to get it to stop, I nearly lost the no-claims once). After about 250ish miles though, it was all good, but didn't feel substantially better than Kars (which I'll just repeat, I think are flipping superb, loads of grunt on that pedal, just have to watch people who arn't used to driving it as they will put everyone into the windscreen on the first corner )

I did do a bit of a lane thrash, and I didn't get any fade, which is the one thing I've had with Kar once, and it was a longer run, about the same outside temp. Neither have open wheels (GLT rims on this, steelies on Kar).

Tempted to chuck these on Kar, should make a bit of diffference when I get the alloys on, as they are nice and open too.

@jtbo:

Problem of non-LSD can be helped somewhat by dumping the rear of the car as low as you can get it. That way you shift some weight towards the rear. Other factors that help out tremendously are: lightweight bucketseat mounted to the floor and more toward the rear of the car. Its possible to get your ass down about 20cm, the difference is very noticable.

I don't really get the point of the pics of the tires you are posting. Either you are using crappy soft sidewalled tires or you are running way to low tire pressures. Tires should never have to look like that.

Tip: take a piece of crayon and before a lap/'run draw a line along the sidewall of the tire. Keep raising the tire pressure until you no longer see the crayon dissapear of anything but the running surface of the tire. If you are indeed using crap tires then you should get extra tire wear on the middle of the tire..that would be a sign to invest in something more decent.

Damir130 wrote:@jtbo:

Problem of non-LSD can be helped somewhat by dumping the rear of the car as low as you can get it. That way you shift some weight towards the rear. Other factors that help out tremendously are: lightweight bucketseat mounted to the floor and more toward the rear of the car. Its possible to get your ass down about 20cm, the difference is very noticable.

I don't really get the point of the pics of the tires you are posting. Either you are using crappy soft sidewalled tires or you are running way to low tire pressures. Tires should never have to look like that.

Tip: take a piece of crayon and before a lap/'run draw a line along the sidewall of the tire. Keep raising the tire pressure until you no longer see the crayon dissapear of anything but the running surface of the tire. If you are indeed using crap tires then you should get extra tire wear on the middle of the tire..that would be a sign to invest in something more decent.

There is 2,8bar pressure in my tyres when I go to track, I can't put much more as tyre's max is 3bar. I guess that those are crappy tyres, Viking Pro Tech 500, today sold as Continental.

I guess that I buy better tyres for next season and also seat and brakes and
Let's see how life chooses

I do have LSD, just not yet installed

Just thought i'd post this incase no-one has found this website:

http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/pages/sbv ... le=VL36001

A few grooved and drilled discs there,
cheers
Ali

Yeh i found that site mate!!! Its not bad for stuff but a bit pricey!!!!
Cheers Adam

I have fitted black diamond disks to the front of mine (drilled and grooved) I wanted greenstuff pads as well, they list them, but cant supply them at the mo because they want X amount of orders before they make a batch, so I fitted them with standard lucas pads. Result? bugger all diffarence I still suffer from pad fade (good pedal, just not stopping anymore and big smoke from the brakes when I finaly do stop) I run the stock wheels (no real cooling holes to speak of) and can honestly cook the pads in two hard stops, or if generaly ragging about a bit the brakes will last about 3 minuites before I have to let them cool down.

Groved discs do not help with heat disapation. The benifit of them is even wear across the pad and disc. Scored discs/pads lose efficency.

Dai

Note the early-360 anti-roll bar endlinks. That's gotta have something to do with it. Whatever they are, it's a neat job...look very stock!

cheers

James