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Posted: 09 Jul 2007 05:22 pm
by IvanAE86
Just a little thread resurrection because I want to share this picture with you guys: sadly the fender flares are off the car for fibreglass work.

Posted: 09 Jul 2007 06:51 pm
by Chris_C
Are those r-sport stripes... They are grey in the previous pics...
Posted: 09 Jul 2007 08:57 pm
by IvanAE86
Well I wasnt finished before.. it's best to keep pics of the paintwork a bit vague since it's all done with the roller, it looks fine enough for a trackcar though
It's not really driveable with the rear wheels on though, the fenders need a lot of cutting and rewelding to make some room for these rims.

Posted: 09 Jul 2007 11:35 pm
by Chris_C
I love those colours, last week me and Nick were talking about how to get the rsport stripe look to work on my grey/lilac coloured 300... don't think it will

Posted: 10 Jul 2007 05:29 pm
by MJ
That's looking really nice

Posted: 17 Jul 2007 06:06 am
by Nikdev
Nice ivan!
Mine:

Posted: 19 Jul 2007 03:08 pm
by kaos
ive just been playing with mine..
but have a small problem..
left is stock volvo nut on mine right is ford alloy wheel nut.
are my stock nuts safe?
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 04:18 pm
by Nick C
Are they ford rims? It's more important to use suitable nuts for the wheels, so the tapers inside the holes match and pull the wheels squarely onto the hubs. Although obviously they need to have the right thread...
e.g. The Alloys for my Dolomite have square holes, so the nuts for them don't have any taper at all, whereas the steels have conventional tapered nuts.
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 05:18 pm
by kaos
nah my rims are OZ racing alloys.
i just have my track/field fiesta on the drive. so grabed on e of its alloys nuts to compare against the volvo nut, its got the same sorta pitch angle so thought the volvo nut might be okay to use on alloys?
atm ive used the stock nuts to hold the alloys in place and they seem to do the job i just dont want them coming of or anything
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 05:59 pm
by Nick C
I'd presume the manufacturer could tell you what shap of nuts are best to use. They're not going to come off, as long as they have plenty of thread, it's all in good condition and they are sufficiently tight (but not too tight, I know someone who had alloy wheelnuts stripped by someone windy-gunning them on

)
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 06:06 pm
by kaos
nah all being torqued by hand etc.
i'll stick em on for now then and do a bit of driving and see how they hold for now then.
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 06:12 pm
by Chris_C
If those are volvo steel nuts (they look it) theres a chance that the nuts will react with the wheels. 360's have alloy nuts with a embedded threaded bit inside, that don't react with the metal in the wheels. Rally design do them cheaper than Volvo

or hunt down good ones from a scrappy... but make sure they don't feel ballooned, as the embedded nut will have come loose inside.
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 06:32 pm
by kaos
theyre the nuts that were ont he volvo already
ive just put the other 2 alloys on and put these nuts back on. seems to hold alright etc.
atm i cant afford £32 for those nuts classic swede make. i tryed my ford bolt on it and its a bit tight but fits. so might go with a set of them..
got a link to those rally design ones?
ive only put them on to test more than anything dont think i like the price hike on insurance tbh..
its mainly because theyve got brand new tyres on unlike my steels.
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 07:30 pm
by Chris_C
Have a nosey here... great looking place, one of the guys just got a set, he'll let you know which size is required.
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/ad ... =wheel+nut
Posted: 19 Jul 2007 10:51 pm
by foggyjames
That would have been me
For Volvo rims, they're a 60 degree taper seat - that's more or less a standard, but there are exceptions. The thread of the studs is M12 x 1.25.
cheers
James