Just made on order from brake parts, all new, hoses, discs, master cylinder, calipers and so on.

256 euros with delivery, I have some parts at home which I did not needed to order, like new front pads and master cylinder.

Reason for that is over 12 months not driving, also fluid has been brown (almost black) at least that time so for mot need to do that, put all parts together, fix main power cable, adjust idle mixture and hope for best that there is no big rust holes appeared.

Still takes little time to get it done as bit over week of work left, then need to move to house, after that I have perhaps little chance to build car, however it looks to be quite slim time window where I have to work again.

cool, thats the next thing on my to-do list after exams as my flexis need replacing (and the fluid does for sure!) along with some kind of caliper check/refurb.

Parts did arrive, I did order bit of extra parts too I see, next time it would be good to actually read details, so I have now 4x brake shoes for rear brakes, 4x spring sets for rear brakes and also extra set of brake cylinder seals for rear brakes, which was good accident actually.

At least passenger side (driver side in uk) cylinder was perfect, pistons did move like in new and there were no leaks, only one seal had small hole in it so I did replace that one.

Where do you recommend to place axle stands? I have them now under rear axle, but that of course does not rise car as much as if it would be under the body, but if I jack car up from jack point is there any other points that are enough strong if I leave car on axle stands for few weeks?

I can't work constantly on car as I would like, because I have too much to do at the moment, but I hope to get it roadworthy for next month, let's see, could be bit too soon, but maybe I can make it happen if all goes as well.

Bleeding can be bit tricky of course, specially as I'm doing this alone, maybe I use little trick and put little air pressure into brake fluid tank so I could loosen and tighten brake pipes from rear. Would be perhaps bit easier if there would be bleed valve, but there seem not to be.

I try to get some pics here later.

i suddenly became an expert on brakes when i replaced all the brakes on the clio and... the best way to bleed is to get a gunson eezibleed kit, they don't cost too much and it makes it soo easy

as to the axel stands, find some where stable and solid. i always prefere ramps not garage ramps( although they would be nice) i mean the cheap ones you can get and drive on to.

Looks like you have alot to do, i wish you goodluck in your mission!

germ wrote:i suddenly became an expert on brakes when i replaced all the brakes on the clio and... the best way to bleed is to get a gunson eezibleed kit, they don't cost too much and it makes it soo easy

as to the axel stands, find some where stable and solid. i always prefere ramps not garage ramps( although they would be nice) i mean the cheap ones you can get and drive on to.

Looks like you have alot to do, i wish you goodluck in your mission!

Thanks, appreciated

I'm now lucky enough to have own garage, there is good concrete floor so stability is not much of issue with my good axle stands, with my not so good axle stands I would not go under the car at least

I have bottle with bit of tube in it, which simplifies job a bit, also compressor so I would only need to install valve to cap of brake fluid container/tank thing and then I would have rather fail proof method for brake bleeding.

I might need something which I could use to heat bleeding valves if those are stuck, I do have mig welder of course, but that might not be most efficient for the job

Ok, only two pics + two from my ultimate back box installation

http://jtbo.pp.fi/images/album/360/2008/brakes/

I managed to forgot to take pic without removing parts and when new parts were in, well I still have that other side to work on and perhaps I remember them

Jani,

I jack the car under the diff (be careful to avoid the rear plate!) or axle tube, then support it under the rear jacking points (if they're solid) or the axle tube, depending on what I'm doing.

Having a big jack and big axle stands is much easier and safer than the little 'hobby' stuff. I got a huge jack for ~£100, and four large axle stands for about £50. The time, effort, and 'brown pant moments' you'll save are significant. Money very, very well spent.

cheers

James

^^ ive been having a lot of those brown pant moments recently

cars falling on you isnt fun(saved buy a few lumps of wood!) i need new axel stands me thinks or more ramps 8 would be nice so i can do 2 cars at once!

£100 for a large jack? i must have a lower than hobbie spec one lol

2 of my axle stands are indeed bit better than average hobby stuff, for example it has one triangular 'foot' instead of traditional 3, which makes them more than enough stable, also material is thicker than what you will find from cheap hobby versions.

Another two is not like so, 3 legs that have hinges so they move freely, surely not stable at all, I don't think that I can use those for car at least

Rear jacking points are indeed bit of question mark, they haven't been very solid at all when I have jacked car up from those, so then axle tube is perhaps my best bet and as car sits very solid on axle stands from it, it seems to be winning solution until I have made rear jacking points more solid

One thing I never do is to leave car supported only with jack, I have seen what that can result.

Tomorrow starts my summer vacation, so that means more work will be made for car

I put up few new pics here http://jtbo.pp.fi/images/album/360/2008/brakes/

This other side was bit more complicated, I could not release brake shoes enough even I found hole and did what instructions tell, brake shoes did get bit more loose, but not enough, so I had to use brute force method, however it often does come with damages and so it did now too.

Auto adjuster part did bent quite bad, but I managed to straighten it somewhat straight, however I doubt that adjustment really works as now it is quite hard to turn, have to find thread repair set or new part.

There was also little leak in brake cylinder which I fixed by installing new seal to piston as old was smoothed and leaking because of that.

Not much progress, I was hoping to get more done today, but there was much to do with house too, painted one wall etc

Today I did try to open bleed valve with new tools I bought at morning, but no avail, even I did weld nut in it, but it was really hard to weld when it was impossible to see there at all, which resulted not solid weld and thus not possible to get bleed valve open.

So it remains on my task list.

I did weld new metal part to exhaust that keeps exhaust on place, now I got exhaust banging against rear axle fixed as I could attach rear part of exhaust how it should be, it hangs from that rubber circle shaped object and that hangs from standard holder that is on body of car.

Don't know all names for those parts and my Haynes seem to be in my other home, sorry.

Also I bought few tools, torque wrench and few other needed items, so now I can tighten crank bolt to correct torque, also if I go for standard camshaft I need it there.

Also I removed hundreds and hundreds of bad flowers from yard and put some grass seeds to replace blank spots

I really do wish to get car running soon, but that brake bleed valve problem keeps delaying project from moving on.

Sounds like you're a busy man, Jani

cheers

James

foggyjames wrote:Sounds like you're a busy man, Jani

cheers

James

Indeed, sometimes I wonder where whole day disappeared, but when I look back it seems to be that I have made some progress.

Today replaced one brake caliber to front as old one seemed quite dead, I could not make piston move even with sledgehammer, of course my 3 legged friend would have solved that issue or destroyed something in process, but as I had new one I could not bother fighting with damn thing.

So new caliber went in and bleeding was quick task, bit WTH!? with brakepads which I presumed to be okay, they were not, only 2mm surface left on one that had more wear, this with 5000km so I guess race pads don't like road usage. Well, I need to check if I did not actually order new pads or if I have simply located them such location that is beyond my memory, so what I did was to swap pads with each other so now there is chance to get bit more miles out from them or then not.

Everything did went really well, I thought this is too easy and so it was. With many words not possible to translate here, I found out that new caliber was piece of junk, piston did not move, no matter what I did, it just did not move at all, so remove grab new one and install, bleed and test was in order, now it worked fine.

I'm bit amused how brand new Girling caliper was not working at all, piston was completely stuck, as badly as my old one had. Maybe they don't remember to lubricate them where ever they make those parts?

Well, now I need to send it back and wait new one to come. I might try to replace trouble making rear cylinder tomorrow, then I could bleed rear brakes and only one corner would be left for next time I'm here.

Little tactic, I lifted all other 3 corners up, but left one down, so when bleeding brakes one front corner that where was not possible to install new caliber will not gather air in it, well that is theory, realism can be lot different again

Then I did remove more bad flowers from grass, I thought I got all of them, but no, there was more yellow today and also did remove bit of rust from 240, just small test to see if I have correct paint from shop and also test of how deep problems really are.
Let's say that rear arc seem to be in condition where replacement is usually recommended.

Oh yes, plummer was here too, did work 8 hours, but still he need to come tomorrow to work more, which means that my wallet might scream quite a bit

edit: I did found out that 360 still has idle too, one just have to attach vacuum pipe. Tomorrow I also try to find bolts for alternator and check all tightening torques which I cold not do today, then it is radiator install and liquids in, after that I can try to run it warm and do some adjustments for carb, could be fun day if all of this is possible to make happen

On the subject of supporting cars, if the job doesn't require the wheels to be removed then jack up the end or side you want nice and high and put a couple spare wheels under the cars wheels. If its properly chocked then its really safe and gets the car nice and high.

Jason B wrote:On the subject of supporting cars, if the job doesn't require the wheels to be removed then jack up the end or side you want nice and high and put a couple spare wheels under the cars wheels. If its properly chocked then its really safe and gets the car nice and high.

That is what I do when I go under the car, in addition to axle stands, now I'm at other home and here I will move everything to new place as soon as possible, but at last end of this month, so then I will have few spare tires too.

I did not do much for car today, only checked torques of bolts and little tidying in engine bay, also I did set idle mixture screw to base setting from carb.

There was plummer working at house as water did not come too well from faucet, also they did install shower and did some new plumming. However root of problem revealed to be worse kind, I need to make full rebuild of water piping, new water well and such or then I need to connect to waterpipe that runs nearby, costs are around same, take a seat now, 6500 euros.

And I thought that I will have bit tight budget to get 300 roadworthy again

So I need to find some extra chips from bank and perhaps reconsider of restoring 240 and using 360 meanwhile.

Well, I still have many parts to install so project continues, but it might get now bit longer than excepted.