Nimminz wrote:
Now the major problem seems to be the rear wheel bearing which sounds like it's on the verge of collapse :/ Monday is the next time i have more than half a day free so should do it then. Clutch noise is worrying still. Bearing carrier is still leaking but will try do that at the same time as both wheel bearings and brake shoes and studs next week. Maybe double leaf

The wheel bearings can be a real pain to get out. You will probably have to pull the rear axle off and use a press and even then they can be well stuck in and need some heat and impact shock to shift them.

what about removing the hubs myself the taking to a mate at a garage where they have all the stuff? Or will the hubs be a pain too? i remember Liam saying the other night he couldn't get one of his off.

tomorrow I'm having a day of tidying things up wit the car and re-welding a backbox hanger

Nimminz wrote:what about removing the hubs myself the taking to a mate at a garage where they have all the stuff? Or will the hubs be a pain too? i remember Liam saying the other night he couldn't get one of his off.

tomorrow I'm having a day of tidying things up wit the car and re-welding a backbox hanger

they are a pain.. i ended up changing the whole rear axle.. much easier
still have the other one lying around, so bearings will be changed on it

Rear bearing are doable;

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... t=bearings

SPOT ON!

cheers mate, gonna try get it done ASAP its making really bad noises and i need to replace the snapped stud

Also solved the problem i had figuring out why the 'release bearing' was making a noise. It's the gearbox input shaft (see why i thourght it was release bearing). Only found out when i turned the car off before i'd stopped and could hear the noise even though the clutch was down. I remember before i fitted it it felt like it had more 'slack' when turning it one way then the other compared to my old box.

So plan is to get 2 more torque tube clamp bolts, a new front cover plate gasket, diff to gearbox gasket and some 10w40 this time rather than the uber expensive ATF and swap the LSD inc. casing onto my old box along with the front plate (as i only have 1 between the 2 boxes). While i'm at it I'll fix the bearing carrier leak and maybe stick a temp sensor in the diff.

Gearlinkages need doing too, might try and stick a standard set on and re-inforce them

Then I can go back to enjoying the car

Wheel bearing's becoming a major problem now so can't have too much fun in the snow lol

Here's a few pics

If you get new rear bearings without circlips in the kit I have some here, you will probably wreck the old ones removing them.

aye the new bearings don't have circlips, take it i just need one per side? Dunno if i'm attempting it myself or not yet

Dude, forgive my ignorance, but whats your towstrap attatched to?
I want one on the Pug for X-tra Rally look, but cant see anywhere to blu-tac it to, while retaining a usable length.

volvosneverdie wrote:Dude, forgive my ignorance, but whats your towstrap attatched to?
I want one on the Pug for X-tra Rally look, but cant see anywhere to blu-tac it to, while retaining a usable length.

The tow eye!

Matt, those bearings never came with circlips. Never thought about it! Loving the third pic down btw! Where's that taken?

Really? Well that's easier than I thought.

volvosneverdie wrote:Really? Well that's easier than I thought.

Aye. Purpose made for towing the car, obviously. All the straps/extended eyes are intended for, is to make it easier and clearer to access for track marshalls when you bin it.

Aye its bolted through a hole on the 'trumpet' parts where the tow eye attaches, weld a plate across the orig. tow loop with a hole drilled in then bolt onto that was the best way i seen.

pop a hole in the underside of the bumper and cable tie it, that's what the cool kids do round my neck of the woods

Aye Liam, didn't think they would have. the place is here: https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=54.755 ... 1&t=m&z=16

Just an odd little road to a farm lol

Well Yesterday I made a start on the wheel bearing, in the rain. Broke a socket getting the driveshaft out then realised I needed a longer extension for the big 30mm nut ... So i gave in.
I'll attack it again monday, armed with a longer extension.

Once the snapped stud and bearing are replaced, I've got the O/S radius arm mount to replace due to rotted bush cups. Then I'm driving it!

Ordered a couple of gaskets from volvo, the one for the front cover and one for the gearbox - diff. Apparently one's a 'classic' part and could take up to 3 weeks. Just for interest i gave him the part numbers for the radius arm mounts - NLA as expected. Also the brake dust sheilds, I'm sure not all of them out there are in great nick and it is technically a MOT fail i think? Anyway they are NLA too.

Gearlinkages and my old gearbox and it should be pretty much good.

Well, Got than nut off the end of the stub axle ok, Managed to get the 'drive flange' off the stub axle with a 3-legged puller. Now the bit I'm stuck with is braying the stub axle out. Had me mate down today and it moved maybe 5mm with lots of hammering, until he smashed his hand with the hammer :/ Now he's a load stronger than me and he couldn't get it out so i can't see me getting it out. Sprayed some penetrating oil down this afternoon see if it helps tomorrow. Any tips / tricks?

After it's out I'm taking it to an engineering place to get the new bearing put in. I need the car working by next monday or It will have to sit there till february because i'll have no more time to work on it. I've still got to do the front radius arm mount and make some gear linkage brackets, Which i've bought some bar for today.

Got some brand new Radius arms in the post from Gruby the other day too

Does it look like it's moved?


The drive flange


Radius arms