Once again, sorry for the non-reply to the above. I have read it all and appreciate the help. I will sort out the replies etc when I can.
Back down the garage now to replace/secure the bodged temp fuel lines from the OEM plastic stuff to the fuel pump lol


Here's where I'm at now.

Right, after checking through the 740/940 No-start guide with the meter on various settings it's looking for all the world like the
EZK module/powe stage/spark enhancer/ignition amplifier/ignition module/igniter etc etc ( care to add any more? lol) is at fault. All of my mates who have helped me agree, as does a local auto electrician (mate asked his neighbour).
I guess 200K miles worth of usage and then all of the stop/starting I have been asking of it whilst removing most of the 940 loom has been too much for it.

I have ordered a replacement and I should have it tomorrow morning if someone is able to take me lol.

The power to the coil is received via this module. As the name suggests, it amplifies the signal. So a one on the way out/dead would result in a very weak spark or none at all.


I had my mate pull the king lead form his B230FK 940 and turn it over, and he gets an almost constant and healthy spark. See vid below:
http://s895.photobucket.com/albums/ac15 ... =Spark.mp4
Compare that to mine:
http://s895.photobucket.com/albums/ac15 ... V00049.mp4


With the module unplugged neither my nor Iains cars will spark.
The culprit can only be that, surely!


Also, what is the purpose of this relay? (passenger side inner wing near ballast resistor and EZ module on 940) It only seems to be energising/returning on occasion. Not all of the time when igntion is activaed as I would expect.




What do we reckon? If it's not this module I am outta ideas!

What you have in the photo is a radio supression 'relay', not sure if it can cause the problems you mention, but I think it is not the ignition amplifier (large flat unit with big heat sink on the back) which is beside it in my 95 car. I would guess the radio suppression device is just a filter rather than a relay, you should be able to bypass it. Not sure how though and not sure where it is in the diagram.

Anyway this link came up in the part number search;

http://www.davebarton.com/volvorelays.html

In the 940 it provide a ground to the injection system apparently.

Cheers mate. I am so sick of being stuck at this simple stage.

£50 down the drain, it aint the power stage dealy.


Old and new.

I dunno, maybe it's the coil itself. I have never tested it except to see if it was receiving 12v and was sparking, which it is put as previously shown it is crap.

So I have whipped it off and measured the resistance, multimeter set to ohms obviously. Here's the findings:

Between +ve and -ve terminals returns a reading of 00.0-00.01 when apparently it should be between 0.75-0.81

HT connection to either side terminal returns 07.3 ohms not the 10,000-11,000 a healthy coil should produce. Surely that is well knackered??


The above suggested 'OK' figures coem from a universal guide. For the Bosch Volvo coil it is supposed to produce 0.6-0.9 ohms and 5.0-7.0k ohms, although it says for part number ending in -005.
My label has worn away, but stamped on the bottom (what I assume is the part number) it says 0221 116 351. Google doesn't have anything definitive on this number belonging to a coil.



Can anyone measure their coil resistance for me (Ride_on) ?

Cheers.

A further thought. During testing of the coil +ve and -ve supply wires we connected a 5w interior light straight to the wire terminals and it didn't flash as I would have expected it to when at pos 3 (cranking) but I just thought, a bulb wouldn't be able to react as fast as the coil can fire so would stay lit up steady.

I'm feeling fairly optomisitc about this now.

Haynes spec:
Primary 0.6-0.8R
Secondary 6.9K to 8.5K

B230FT should be using a EZ116K ignition system

My car (coil open circuit)
Terminal 15-1: 0.9R (really need 4 wire measurement to read accurately at this R)
Terminal 15-HT:7.5K
Terminal 1-HT: >200M

Blue wire goes to Terminal 15
Red/White wire goes to Termin 1

Thanks dude. T1-15 and 1/15-HT are way off on mine. I am using the EZ116K ignition system that the 940 was running.

Sounds like you've got it

Might be worth checking that there wasn't a sudden current dump that has caused the coil to short circuit, it may not be the ultimate source of the problem even if it is currently stopping everything from working.

...sort of lol


Cheers btw Chris. The coil was fine lol. Damn my POS multimeter.

But we got there in the end. Click FTW.

(Feel free to admire the lovely site opposite the garage that is vacant death row. Scheduled for demolition any time now... :/)

Mick came over on Saturday so I could collect the coil I had ordered, but we retested mine and it's fine. So we never bothered with that (sorry Euro car parts LOL).
he came, head armed with information after reading up on crank position sensors the previous night after I flaked out of our MSN convo and went to sleep! We tested the AC current and resistance in the CPS. Both were fine, We then tested the B19 CPS against a drill chuck, and the meter showed that one was functioning. So we removed the B230 CPS from the bracket on the block and tested it. That was working also.

Then came the 50% eureka 50% FFS moment. When remounting the CPS on the B230 Mick noticed the bracket was only on finger tight!
That was nipped up and we had the correct spark rate back! Then the king lead was re-attached to the dizzy and she fired straight up!

So we got to finishing the car off. Mark came over and wrapped the looms in loom tape/we routed into cabin, mounted the EZK, injector resistors etc. And a couple of other bits and pieces too.

Mick then finished off the downpipe for me whilst I just held it in place lol. I really CBA with it on Saturday. It had me burned out.

Big thanks to Mick for solving my woes! i cannot believe I never checked that!


So I pulled the car outside,and the new problems began lol.
This is a weird one. It got to the point where the car wouldn't idle or then even fire up. More fuel was added, then the clocks were connected. Showing half a tank, so no issues there.
Spluttering aside, I do like that noise!

I removed the feed pipe from the rail and this is the pitiful amount that was coming through
Please excuse our funny northern accents and easily pleased sense of humour. lol

We wrapped in at this point.

This afternoon I removed the pump from the car and bench tested it. First time is as it was last night
Second time, as it should be

I then plugged it back into the cars loom and bypassed the tank using the jerry can/jug. Still wouldn't start, just as it was when we left it last night.
I quit then lol. My mate suggested something I forgot to do when he rang me. Connect the pump directly to the battery, bypassing the cars loom. Incase it is doing what we think it may be, priming initially and then cutting out. I will do that tomorrow.

I also have ordered a pump that flows 200LPH so I am within spec. The GLT one should be fine for testing purposes on the car though at 120LPH. The missing 60 litres won't come into play at low revs. As my mate says, it's not like the injectors are operating at 70% at 3K RPM lol.

We also noticed a high pressure oil leak when the car was moved outside yesterday. I knew it was leaking, but wasn't aware how bad due to not running the engine. After a poke about today, my worst fears are realised. it appears to be the turbo's oil return pipe. not where it has been modified, but at the two bolt flange end where it bolts to the turbo. The gasket was reused (I meant to replace but overlooked it.) and you guessed it, it's a total PITA to access in situ.


Nope, can't I get it from here!

How about here? :/

I can't even get a 1/4 drive 10mm or stubby spanner in there, let alone my hand! Looks like it's an engine mount off job. Another bitch of a task, and I am unsure how possible tbh! Guess I will find out tomorrow lol.


Random assortment of boost pipes I got from the scrappers today. Cheers Mark.


So, those minor problems aside. I have acheived my target lol. Albeit I now have a car I can't use for work for another few days!
Oh yeah, I still need to make my FMIC fit. Driving with the 940 one present certain bonnet closure issues.

If it wasn't for the wild goode chase that resulted from the loose CPS. I would have been on target, had shakedown time etc. I expected teething issues, only thing is I expected them 4/5 days back lol!

Cheers to Mick, Mark and Naylor for yesterday.
Especially Mick. You solved it mate, and at a time I couldn't even be arsed to pick up a spanner!


The light is at the end of the tunnel. lol

Honestly you guys are doing a great job... teething troubles aside I'm sure it will all be worth it when it's sorted, the car looks sweet as ever as well.

Good works man. Very good works.

Great work, love to the end result

That's amazing done in record time. The exhaust alone will take me about 2 weeks at least.

Does that drive sound a bit whiny? or is that what a welded diff sounds like?

Cheers boys! Much appreciated.

Ride_on, that whining is the torque tube bearing. I hear it's quite the arse on to change! I just pretend I have an SCCR 'box'

FJ dropped in after giving me a lift hom today and Mick brough my compressor over, so we blasted out the fuel lines. (after testing the pump from the battery and direct to the fuel rail). We found the problem area. One side of the OEM GLT pump is a larger diameter, adn as such it had 10mm rubber hose, reducing to 8mm, this was more than likely drawing in air. A section of the plastic Volvo pipe was added to bef it up, and problem solved.

I haven't driven it anymore than in these two videos atm, due to the oil leak. Tomorrows job.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v698/ ... eo0085.mp4
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v698/ ... eo0086.mp4

I gave it the beans in first after pulling away, and with the throttle nailed, it didn't hesitate at all. It will be nice to get it a bit more together and then drive it properly!

My uprated fuel pump should be here on Tues/Weds also. Happy days!

cant wait to see the bugger man.

Great work