I think the Mk2 Golf thing might be my fault, I used one when where was no 300 based unit around as it was what was around in the scrap yard at the time, and have mentioned it in a few posts on here as they remained available.

It's nothing like a 300 unit, aside from it has 3 resistors and 4 connectors, it has a Tyco 4bullet square connector, but is fully encased in a ceramic with a metal flange. I have one here still if you need a photo, but it doesn't have any cross compatibility.

Excellent work Mac! Hopefully well be getting results back from the 'field test' units soon, but it all looks good.

Just to show my current "fragility" has not caused me to entirely neglect my resistor pack project.

I have continued to refine the method of securing the cut out socket to the new board -
I am now producing my own brass connectors which allow the socket to be secured with rivets (the same method used in the OE version).



Basic folding jig.



I am seeking further test subjects - if anybody has a failed pack and would be prepared to let me refurbish it for them to test long term please PM me.

Mac.

My thanks to Chris C for providing me with a scrap air box and blower motor for a pre 86 car.

The motor has now been Mac'd and I'm well on the way to completing an "early" test rig. Chris can you remember what it looked like before?





I'm still looking for test subject cars for both pre and post 86. If your car has a failed resistor pack and you're prepared to have me rebuild it for you to test on your car plea PM me.

Mac.

It wasn't shiny by a margin Nice one Mac.

I located one the other day, but failed to find "the stash".

cheers

James

Right ho! ladies,

Bit of a delay in my playing about (I plead age, crumblyness, life in general) but:-

I've now completed a test rig for the "early", pre 86' heater blower for researching the three terminal resistor packs (thanks again Chris) and using a "new OS" pack (thanks RJ) I have repeatable results as below.

Speed 1. Current draw of 3.5A
Speed 2. Current draw of 6.5A

Speed 3. Current draw of 14.0A - this however is not routed through the cut out.

Pack temperature in minimum airflow (pack sits in the air box before the motor) seems to stabilise at 75c - 80c and about 10c higher in still air (this reflects the much less cooling effect of the airflow on the early set up).

I had hoped that the cutouts I had initially sourced would be suitable for these early packs but (almost certainly due to the much less cooling air) on test I found the cutouts tripped consistently after 1min on speed 2.

Reconfigured to accept the later cutout a test pack has now completed two periods of 30mins on each speed.

Three terminal pack in trial build.






I have an early test subject and a trial pack is going out on Monday for on-car testing.

Foggy, I haven't forgotton yours - but it's actually a 4 terminal pack with one terminal broken off! - I want to make sure the coils have the same resistance as the 3 terminal type before I refurb it for your testing.

Mac.

Hi mac.
I recently came into posession of a freebe resistor. If you need it for
research porposes, let me know and i will send it over.
Cheers Mark.

Another step closer on these. As usual great work and looking hopeful.

I found another couple the other day...! I know there are more.

cheers

James

my GLT has no blower atm, when it comes back with a ticket ill start playing to see whats causing the issues, i have a spares car with a functioning heater blower so ill probably just swap bits in until i get it working. either way therell be a spare resistor pack and motor if you're still after more units to refurbish/play with

My apologies for holding up Macs progress, I spent a lot longer getting my car on the road than I intended.

Pleased to say though that the resistor Mac supplied went in and since then my blower operates exactly as it should. Except for the two leaves rattling behind the vent that I keep forgetting to remove.

Works perfectly Mac! All three settings. I will keep an eye on it going forward and if there are any tests you want me to do just let me know. hope you received the old unit ok.

Many thanks and kind regards.

I should mention, she has operated at setting 3 for long periods the last three mornings. Around half an hour each time to demist fully. (I have a hole that lets in water so she is steamy and my rear screen heater doesn't work as it needs some attention to the wiring) the other two settings are probably 2-3 hours usage on and off.

Hello, I've been looking at this truly mactacular thread which was very active a while back... In a nut shell I take it that I can solder in an ETA 1620-1 thing or is it harder, cos I don't have all that much technology.

Been going through the posts again.... so am I right in thinking that the modern-day Otter G6 switch might be OK if you remove the cover.... might be an easier repair for me to solder one of those in, and cheaper??!!

I too would have preferred to have used an equivalent Otter but despite much research I was unable to source an Otter of a suitable rating - Otter themselves were spectacularly unhelpful and simply were not interested in the slightest.

As an alternative I considered various solutions culminating in the choice as detailed in my thread which has now proved to be a viable answer. Various units in service as tests have so far proved perfectly reliable.

At a basic level, yes, replacing the failed Otter with an ETA 1620 series should restore function. In my test units I was looking to a full reconditioning process including replacing the PCB but ultimately the only "failed" component is generally the cut-out.

I confess I've not progressed the thread much of late (I plead elderly family member problems and of course my own run of "interesting" health issues but in due course I intend to offer an exchange recon service. (But will not until I'm sure my fix provides a long term, reliable, solution.

Mac.

If you need any help - get in touch.