Germs Plans and stuff

Post by **germ** » 12 Mar 2007 11:26 pm

^^

ok soon as i find bits i start

i only want to change the head another thing is ecu where does it plug and stuff as i asume i need all the electrics.

and the models with compatable pistens shapes too as i have no idea

Cheers
will

Post by **Chris_C** » 12 Mar 2007 11:39 pm

Oh yeah... so not only have I had your gauge panel now for 9months.... sorry dude!

Germ, I'll double check the values I used, it's literally a reisistor and a potentiometer, all you are doing is making a potential divider to reduce the voltage coming from the rev counter feed. At a quick guess a 560k resistor and a 10k pot would drop you to 50-55 times... so 12V would be...0.2V, that'd be about right I think. Maybe for safety make the resistor a 670k...

Post by **Chris_C** » 12 Mar 2007 11:47 pm

Right, just done the maths on it, these I'm sure arn't the values I used, but, for a mic in on a laptop you need 50mV, for a line in you need 300mV.

Resistor values of 470k for the fixed, and 10k for the pot, give a range of 300mV down to 0mV at 14.4V (with 50mV being a fifth of the pots range). Sounds like the one to me.

+12
|
470k
|
|---Output to computer
|
10k pot
|
GND

Post by **A M R** » 13 Mar 2007 06:50 pm

jtbo, i saw your power curves and you seem to have gained 20 more torques and 10hp just from upping the fuel pressure

good work.

how much do you think it would gain if you had an exhaust system on there?

Post by **jtbo** » 13 Mar 2007 07:43 pm

A M R wrote:jtbo, i saw your power curves and you seem to have gained 20 more torques and 10hp just from upping the fuel pressure

good work.

how much do you think it would gain if you had an exhaust system on there?

Well, not quite just upping fuel pressure, there was some changes to fuel map too, that is with megasquirt and K-cam.

Exhaust should be fine for 150hp or so what I have heard, don't know if that would make big difference, head and valves need work to get real power out after megasquirt&spark + K cam, then perhaps exhaust manifold.

Ok, last silencer should be replaced as it is bad design, pipes in and out at same side model.

I think that in some test there is bit false results as my brakes have been slowly build up bit jamming so that could have affected to curves a bit.

Post by **germ** » 17 Mar 2007 08:54 pm

MPG how much should a 1.7 do?

also how many miles on a full tank?

fixes for heavey consumtion?

Cheers
will

Post by **jtbo** » 18 Mar 2007 01:33 am

germ wrote:MPG how much should a 1.7 do?

also how many miles on a full tank?

fixes for heavey consumtion?

Cheers
will

First check brakes, after short drive wheels should be cold, not warm, car should also roll rather freely, defineatly not to stop like with brakes, but far more gentle.

25-42.7MPG says manual.

Put sponge under the loud pedal, that should help a bit if your shoe is heavy

Sure if there is air leaks, distributor cap is faulty, or if there is vacuum leaks it will drink more, also if choke is on constantly or if fuel hoses do leak (quite common too, hard to spot, if fuel hose is fabric covered replace and not only those in engine bay, but all near tank too)

Tank can leak also and jubilee clips at filler hose can be failing causing leak, but that is more of 360 problems, I guess.

Post by **germ** » 18 Mar 2007 01:50 am

well shoe is heavy but not alot 100kmh speed mostly over taking 140kmh

dont push pedel to floor and never use brakes xD only to stop

but looks like 25mpg at the moment not filled up again yet but i think this and if it is i cant live with the car

carb, fuel pipes and dist cap are possible

spark plugs are perfect colour

dist cap hasent been changed carb base not cheaked and fuel pipes not done.

i need it to do 35mpg really 30 is ok i guess

Cheers
will

Post by **jtbo** » 18 Mar 2007 02:34 am

50% city 50% highway and 30MPG should be very possible, imo.

Has it started drinking suddenly or has it developed that habit over longer period of time?

If it has started suddenly, I would pick distributor cap or leak, if slowly then brakes getting jammed a bit, good cleaning cures later, replacing fuel hoses fixes possible first one, luckily that is not expensive, but bit of work it is.

Post by **germ** » 18 Mar 2007 03:09 am

its its first full tank of fuel

and it seems to be going down quick thats all

i think ive done 200miles on 30somthing liters :S

i dont think thats good

dont think its brakes just passed its test and they are only few months old
cheers
will

Post by **redline** » 18 Mar 2007 09:37 am

its roughly 5 litres to the gallon so thats about 33 to the gallon isn't it ? thats not bad in my opinion

Post by **pettaw** » 18 Mar 2007 11:17 am

Would agree with Mick, wouldn't expect much more, except on a long run, and anyway, it'll probably improve if the car's stood for a while, all the engine and running components have to get to know each other again

Post by **trabitom99** » 18 Mar 2007 11:30 am

340s have only got a 45 litre tank so the level drops more quickly than you might be used to from other cars. Also, if its only your first tank of petrol you need to get a feel for when its necessary to refuel, fuel gauge readings can be inaccurate ...

Post by **trabitom99** » 18 Mar 2007 11:38 am

germ wrote:i think ive done 200miles on 30somthing liters

just worked it out, that IS 25mpg. A bit low for a 1.7 on country roads ... Wait & see what you get when you fill up.

<EDIT>Used US gallons for conversion sorry! I think that's about 30mpg Imperial</EDIT>

Post by **germ** » 18 Mar 2007 11:49 am

^^will do

bit bad if it is though ... if it is all pipes will be replaced dist cap and rotar any way i think carb base and thats all i can do execpt engine rebuild

which i would love to do but not my wallet

Cheers
will