I'm replacing my front shocks on my 360 GLT Hatch 1986 B200EA and have undone all ball joints and nuts, I cannot get the strut to detach from where it is supposed to. Where should it disconnect from?

a) the brake guard
or somewhere else
b) am i being silly?

Kelvin

a) the whole strut comes out from the wheel arch,

b) probably not, have you undone the 3 bolts under the bonnet around the top mount? just give it a tap bit a tapping stick. somthing like a soft mallet wood or whatever.

Ben

All the bolts at the top are undone. The bottom part is still attached but all ball joints and nut have been removed.

The strut is connected to the body with the 3 bolts on top, steering ball joint and the other ball joint, and with the brake calliper. You can just pull the part off where the cable is attached to, with a bit wobbling. See image for what I mean

Have you seperated the lower swivel ball joint? Normally I just unbolt the plate it is on, much easier to slid out then.

You may just need to push the lower suspension arm down with your foot and pull the strut out. It will probably be easier if you disconnect the radius arm at the arm aswell.

Thanks everyone, specially the picture one

Ride_on wrote:Have you seperated the lower swivel ball joint? Normally I just unbolt the plate it is on, much easier to slid out then.

You may just need to push the lower suspension arm down with your foot and pull the strut out. It will probably be easier if you disconnect the radius arm at the arm aswell.

I unscrewed the swivel with the two bolts which connects it to the suspension arm. Kinda easy when putting it back too, but if you do this for the first time the nuts are probably a lump of rust

Had to release two bolts holding the caliper in place, then Voila!!!Job done

Have discovered another problems - tops of struts, where holes for bolts to go through has cracked in three places....Aggghhhhh

Yes this is common on 360s they are a bit weak and the newer version is more corrosion proned. The older ones have a dome for the rubber boot and this seems to be better protected. Although looking at it now I'm thinking the older ones are thicker (3mm at the shock mounting point), but I don't have a newer one out to compare. The problem is usually accelerated by heavy duty shocks.

I was able to get parts before, not sure what can be done now, vaguely remember seeing some threads about it.

I think he means this one

Boys, I got two struts from the wreckers, all part in place and no bearings broken..fixed..Thanks for the help

Ride on, thanks, the pictures are where the problems were..

Kelvin Brisbane