Hi guys,
Mass of issues with my car's running which I hope you will be kind enough to help me with.
Firstly - today I got 30 miles to £15 of fuel - I'm tempted to say its the gauge, however I couldn't hear any petrol swelling about in the tank when I shook it about this morning.
Secondly - the car struggles to idle when I sometimes start it after its been ran previously. I have to use the choke to keep it going and when it is idling on the choke it hunts: 1200-1500rpm jut dips up and down.
Thirdly - sometimes when I start it and the engine temp is just below middle it throws out a lot of steam from the exhaust, for a few minutes. And I mean ALOT . The oil isn't milky and the coolant is clean.
And the last problem is when I turn it off, it diesels. I know this is either the timing or carbon build up - I'm reluctant to assume its build up as it is a low mileage car (40k ish)
So that's about it - If anyone can shed some light on this it is really appreciated, thanks!
Last edited by valman on 22 Mar 2012 09:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
Oh it also cuts out on bumpy roads - this is probably because it's very low on the front on chopped springs (my coilovers are almost done, don't hate) but thought I'd include it
your floatercover is loose, fuelpump will squirt fuel continuously into the barrels because the opening comes available; that's what makes the idle rpm's bounce around
is the gasket is shut, you'll need a rebuild kit. considering the current mpg's i'd open all the menbrame covers to see if any of them is torn/worn/broken
right checked it all - it wasnt loose so where all that fuel went is still a mystery. put another 10er in to see how far it gets me. spent a while after fettling trying to make it idle right but now it hunts all the time and i cant do anything to stop it. fml - any suggestions?
Sounds like you have a air leak, most probably around the base of the carb and a good tell is it will look wet around the base. Maybe the carb is loose but possible warped carb base. Run on may be getting caused by to much fuel, to many turns on the mixture screw, caused by having to compensate for to much air. This would cause a huge increase in the use of fuel and make the car smoke a bit before it warms up.
My wifes car started this bad idle and stall the other day and I went through checking the flywheel sensor, took off renix type coil and cleaned contacts and stripped the carb. Had no power to the idle cut off solenoid so to be quick just cut the tip off the solenoid (Only cut the tip off the little piston part that is behind the jet on the end of the solenoid that pulls off, NOT THE JET ITSELF!), no ill effects with run on and the second car i have done this to. The carb base was a bit warped and the top gasket where the float is was damaged but got by with using a gasket paste, not the goo that comes in blue or red, to repair the gasket piece that was missing, keeping away from any ports in the carb, and also used the paste to seal the carb base gaskets and now the car is running fine, better then it has in a while.
Last edited by morgan105 on 04 Mar 2012 06:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
just check your fuel cut off solenoid is working mine had broken in the closed position and i got the very same problems
before i got a working one i just pulled of the brass tip of the solenoid so it let fuel in all the time but it did fix the problem
ive replaced it now so its even better on fuel im getting 40-45mpg last time i checked when i had a working speedo haha
any luck i thought my fuel cut off soleniod had died today again it wouldnt idle off choke, very lumpy not sure on mpg but turns out the fuse had fell out haha banged it back in and its fine woop
cheers for the replies -
well it seems to run ok now after some fettling - how can i check if its the idle solenoid? jsut take it out and shake it around? ive had this problem before on a different volvo but the symptoms were a bit different.
ive got a rebuild kit on its way to me from germany so i will rebuld the carb properly once ive got that
P.S. cheers for the seat mat, i havent fitted it yet as im not home from college till tonight but ill get it off darren tonight and fit it
That doesn't ness mean a faulty renix, as said above every symptom you have described sounds like an airleak, so your renix is just seeing atmospheric all the time I'd have thought It'd also explain the having the mixture screw out so far you posted in another thread.
No idea if it'll do anything, but I'd try a suck of the renix pipe to see if that changed the tone of the enigne to conform (depending if you can generate 14"Hg or however many the B14 manages!)
No probs dude done me well for 2 years now haha
just disconnecting the vac pipe at idle wont make a difference apart from a air leak, its for the renix unit to knows how far to advance the ignition (more revs more advancement)
and to test the solenoid do you know were it is for a starters
if so, put your ignition on and disconnect the wire then reconnect the wire you should hear a good click if you dont its faulty or the fuse has blown its the top left fuse in the fuse box if i remember right, check your getting voltage if unsure, above 1600rpm and throttle closed the renix unit will close the solenoid again just to worn you.
if it has burnt out then unscrew it and you will see a brash coloured tip on the end remove it this tip with a pair of pilers and put the solenoid back in, it now wont stop fuel going throw at any time, may pop and fart on over run and do more mpg but its a good temp fix till you get a working one set idle and mixture again and job done till you fit a new solenoid
well you were right matt! it is the idle solenoid. so im trying to get hold of one - fucked up the bodge part big time - filed down the jet itself rather than cut the needle. /facepalm / epic fail etc etc
anyone know where i can buy them new?
cheers
. The oil isn't milky and the coolant is clean. 
It'd also explain the having the mixture screw out so far you posted in another thread.