hi guys ive been searching around for info but cant find much and dont get half of what i have read
ive been thinking about removeing/blanking the egr valve on my b230fk powered 360 but have a few questions, the only thing that i know about doing it is that it free's up a few ponies, is that correct?
why do people remove the egr valve?
what benefits dose it offer?
are there any down falls to taking it off? dose it cause any issues etc/
sorry if its silly but you only learn by asking,
and why im here anyone got any picks of one blocked of or pics of what needs removing/blancking off? or a guide that i couldnt find?
I have no idea about the 900 setup, only what the Vauxhall people do to the engine in my corset.
EGR's are there to make emmisions look better, as such they are a pain in the backside. However... removing them on mine makes the ECU upset (I'm guessing because the lambda is wrong to what it's expecting to happen). So, whilst the theory is that is frees up power, it really wouldn't surprise me if the ECU read a fault and triggered some way of retarding the engine overall. Hence, mine just got cleaned up rather than removed. Plus, whilst it likely doesn't affect you, now the MOT covers engine warning lamps (which would be triggered), it wasn't worth it for me.
I know on alot of modern cars its pointless because the engine management fully closes the egr on full throttle, however im not sure on earlier egr valves. I would agree with chris that it will upset the lamda etc. The egr opens to allow the engine to warm up abit fast, no a deisel it helps prevent NOX, not sure on a petrol though
The other thing a (modern) EGR on a petrol doe aside from reducing NOx emissions is to reduce pumping losses at low throttle openings. It is generally a good thing unless you don't care about fuel economy, at least until it gets so full of soot it doesn't work any more.
EGR is drived from igniton ECU, lambda sond have nothing with it.
It is used only on 1995-1996 m/y B230FK engine and is made by Pierburg.
There is no single Watt gain from removing it but there is loss in perfomance when EGR is not working properly as ignition ECU puts engine in sleep mode (mode for just crawling to service).
EGR is first activated at engine temperature of 61C, when starts to pulse and check exhaust gases temperature.
If during check there is detected flow of exhaust gases through EGR ECU is happy and all is ok.
If no gas flow, ie exhaust gas temperature measured is all the time same, ECU fires limp home mode and lit up check engine lamp with 2-4-1 igniton ECU code fault.
Volvo removed EGR from 1997 m/y as gases are clean enough just with different ECU programming.
On B230 FK to remove or stop EGR you need to exchange ignition EEPROM in order to prevent limp home mode, or somehow dig inside Bosch software and find way how to reprogram original firmware inside EZK.
In pacakge with EGR Volvo used 2 types of EGR temperature sensor, PTC or NTC resistor. They have different mounting position, PTC is separate from EGR valve up on the tube.
NTC is integral to the side of EGR valve.
I do not know if firmware inside ECU is different for PTC or NTC sensor.
My 1995 940 B230FK has NTC type and I have 2 times repaired EGR valve (torn vacuum membrane).
After last reparation with glueing membrane it is working ok now for more then year.
New one from Pierburg as OEM is AFAIK around 350 euros.
At local Volvo dealer the price was suggested, around 1000-1200 euros, so I take a chance to repair myself.
That is what I know about EGR in b230fk.
1995 945SE AW71L bifuel 205k km
1987 340GL M47 II LPG 208 km
and still rolling
gl340 wrote:EGR is drived from igniton ECU, lambda sond have nothing with it.
It is used only on 1995-1996 m/y B230FK engine and is made by Pierburg.
There is no single Watt gain from removing it but there is loss in perfomance when EGR is not working properly as ignition ECU puts engine in sleep mode (mode for just crawling to service).
EGR is first activated at engine temperature of 61C, when starts to pulse and check exhaust gases temperature.
If during check there is detected flow of exhaust gases through EGR ECU is happy and all is ok.
If no gas flow, ie exhaust gas temperature measured is all the time same, ECU fires limp home mode and lit up check engine lamp with 2-4-1 igniton ECU code fault.
Volvo removed EGR from 1997 m/y as gases are clean enough just with different ECU programming.
On B230 FK to remove or stop EGR you need to exchange ignition EEPROM in order to prevent limp home mode, or somehow dig inside Bosch software and find way how to reprogram original firmware inside EZK.
In pacakge with EGR Volvo used 2 types of EGR temperature sensor, PTC or NTC resistor. They have different mounting position, PTC is separate from EGR valve up on the tube.
NTC is integral to the side of EGR valve.
I do not know if firmware inside ECU is different for PTC or NTC sensor.
My 1995 940 B230FK has NTC type and I have 2 times repaired EGR valve (torn vacuum membrane).
After last reparation with glueing membrane it is working ok now for more then year.
New one from Pierburg as OEM is AFAIK around 350 euros.
At local Volvo dealer the price was suggested, around 1000-1200 euros, so I take a chance to repair myself.
That is what I know about EGR in b230fk.
nice one mate some good info there, looks like its staying
There are definately different EZK modules with and without/EGR. Turbo bricks seem to be on top of it, I would try there. Karl is the electronics expert and designed the EZK mod for DIS. Might even be PCB stuffing options.
My 96 B230FT doesn't have it, nor did the 98 B230FK auto I just got for my sis.
My 1995 B230FT does have it.
Just got back into my 1995 car after driving the auto for a week, it is awesome.
