I recently replaced my front brake pads by following a haynes manual which says to put some locking compound on the caliper locating bolt once finished (which I've done).

My friend seems to think that I should have done the actual wheel nuts up with a torque-wrench and because I havent my caliper will crack in a few weeks time?!!!

No just tighten them sensibly for the bolt size

your friends funny!

Some cars disks are held on by the wheel+nuts but not the 300. In any case it should not matter, motorists are not equiped with torque wrenches and ARE expected to change wheels.

You friend is either stupid or taking the piss.

Thanks Ride-On, my mate is definately talking crap! My front brakes have started squeeking today, Im guessing its because they have dirt on them?

I used brake cleaning spray when I replaced the pads last week...

Justin wrote:Thanks Ride-On, my mate is definately talking crap! My front brakes have started squeeking today, Im guessing its because they have dirt on them?

I used brake cleaning spray when I replaced the pads last week...

If you've only replaced the pads, you need to the let the pads bed in and 'wear' to the shape of the disks. Shouldnt take long

Thomas..............

Brake squeel can be a bit tricky. Assuming the pads are not worn and fixed metal is not touching rotating metal, a standard tweak is copper grease on the backs of the pads.

Also do let them bed in gently first.

No the pads are brand new. When you say copper grease on the backs of the pads will stop squeeking exactly where on the pad does this grease go? Can you post a photo?

I can live with the squeeking as long as it isnt causing damage to my brakes?...

The brake pad has two sides, one that the piston pushes against, and the other that pushes against the disk. Put some copper grease on the face that the piston pushes against, doesn't need a thick coating, but put enough on to cover the area the piston pushes against

Thomas..................

Thanks attack2001 that is a great help. Another friend has also told me to put copper-grease actually on the face of the pad that touches the actual disc?! It's a nightmare getting so many different opinions on what I should and shouldnt do! As a complete novice with cars it seems logical to me that it wouldnt be a good idea to put copper-grease on the face of the pad that touches the disc as the brakes wouldnt work as well....

DON'T PUT ANYTHING ON THE FRICTION SURFACE!! Sorry for shouting, but if you do that, you'll contaminate the entire brake pad and it'll never work properly again! Copper grease on the BACK of the pad, ie: the part that the piston pushes against.

Hopefully you've put thread lock on the caliper sliding bolt that you undid, just for safety's sake, and so long as the wheel bolts are done up sensibly then you won't have a problem.

Thanks, I think I will just listen to the advice the good people on this forum supply as it seems my mates spout a lot of crap!! What about greasing the back of the pad that sits farthest away from the piston ie;the pad closest to the front of the caliper as you look at it?...

Hi Justin.
Mr pettaw has it spot on.
Cheers Mark.

Are you sure these people are your friends, they are suggesting something very dangerous. Its not funny.

Anyway, yes you can put copper grease on the back of both pads, anywhere they are touching the caliper, but do not get it on the friction material or disk.

Thanks. I greased all the backs of my pads yesterday but am still sadly getting a minor squeeking! I guess I could have greased the outside edges of the pads aswell but just cant be bothered doing it all again!

I did notice that my discs have new wear from the new pads at the top and bottom of both discs but not through the middle! (slightly warped discs?) Im guessing the pads will eventually wear the discs true? I checked that my discs were within the minimum thickness spec (11.8mm 1980 on) before I renewed the pads, the discs were actually both exactly 12mm.

I reckon it will be hard to replace my discs the next time it comes to doing it as they seem to be obsolete parts...