Have some issue's in getting the lowering springs from classicswede in the strut.
It always goes sideways and i seem to be on the max of the treat already.
Should i secure the spring somehow to keep it from going wrong or falling out?

I think under compression it should seat correctly? I'm not 100%. Try it!

Speedy88 wrote:I think under compression it should seat correctly? I'm not 100%. Try it!

That is what i was thinking.. i have spare struds so i have to get the old ones off first.. i'll report back when i do

FWIW, I would *not* be using those springs on a car.

They don't have a compete level coil at the end, so all force becomes a point loading rather than spread over the cup. It's all the bad bits of lowering springs (apart from I hope an increased spring rate, which will make the point loading even more scary). It is also why they arn't sitting correctly in the cup.

Unlike Speedy, trying it would be the last thing on my mind. Especially given your usage of the car. If I was a scruit, I'd not let you race.

Of course, I forgot that you race Borrie! I'd be listening to Chris. It's unusual that Dai's springs do not seat correctly though.

You need to run a shortened insert when lowering that much as they are when you lift the front they will just jump out.

The production lower springs have a semi closed end so as to sit correctly in the cup, even so should be run with the shortened insert. A totally flat end would not sit correctly.

The original springs do not have a closed end but are compressed quite a bit when the strut is assembled.

Yeah i'm know to jump the curbs so i was sort of worried, i'll contact Dai maybe he send me something wrong. Its got to be safe first priority

classicswede wrote:You need to run a shortened insert when lowering that much as they are when you lift the front they will just jump out.

The production lower springs have a semi closed end so as to sit correctly in the cup, even so should be run with the shortened insert. A totally flat end would not sit correctly.

The original springs do not have a closed end but are compressed quite a bit when the strut is assembled.

The original springs have a single loop to finish, but the end isn't ground i.e.

rather than

The one that Borrie has here is going to give a point loading on the spring cup, the finished coil won't.

Yes, the cup has a female recess, however, I'd be pretty certain isn't long enough to seat it properly. Maybe worth talking to a scrutineer to see if they would be happy?

The original springs are actualy open like this

[URL=http://s3.photobucket.com/user/classics ... 2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82/cl ... l340spring

the normal lowering springs are like your first photo as I feel that they sit better that way with the stiffer rate

Image wont load, i'm confused as how to continue with these springs for my new racer.

mrborrie wrote:Image wont load,

My 2-3 year old CS lowering springs have a compressed coil on each end, like Chris' picture. Have you changed the spec, Dai?

cheers

James

All my lowering springs have the ends closed up so a full coil sitting flat in the spring cups they same as they always have been. I have no plans to change them from that as they are now very well proven.

Bump. Absolutely right - the knackered GLT springs I just removed were 'open coiled' at the end. Borrie's ones don't look to have the 'flattened coil', but it could be deceptive. Totally agree that the issue there is that the shock is too long, though.

Finally (after several years!) fitted my springs a couple of weeks ago. Very pleased so far, but more to discuss. I'll be in touch...

cheers

James

classicswede wrote:All my lowering springs have the ends closed up so a full coil sitting flat in the spring cups they same as they always have been. I have no plans to change them from that as they are now very well proven.

With koni's or your shocks.. still have not ran em as my shock are just to long for my feeling.