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Rear lowering blocks.

Posted: 27 Oct 2005 08:22 pm
by classicswede
While the forum has been off the development of my lowering blocks has finnished with pleasing results.

First off you will need some tools:
Jack, axle stand, wheel brace, 6mm hex key, 17mm spanner, a good half inch drive ratchet with a 17mm flat sided socket (left hand side of pic)
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Fist off losen the wheel the jack one side at the rear up and then reve the wheel. Place an axle stand under the car incase of any problems.

Once you have done that the drive shaft needs to be removed from the hub(the diff end does not need to be disturbed).
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Now you can get to the spring retaining bolts. Use the 17mm spanner and the 17mm socket to remove the nuts and bolts.
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You can now slide the lowering blocks in and reasemble. Make sure you refix the shimes as they are there to reduce rubbing.
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Well I must say even though I have loads of weight in the back and with the lowering blocks the front is sitting lower. It looks nice as it is now and I'm sure you guys will love it.

Dai

Posted: 27 Oct 2005 08:27 pm
by 340GLT
Dai i did ask in another thread did you not have a problem with the antitramp bar? It doesnt allow you to simply lift the axle up, it comes up on a pivot which buggers the alignment up!!!
Cheers Adam

Posted: 27 Oct 2005 08:42 pm
by classicswede
It all pulled up nice and square with the 1" blocks. I cant say ive tried the thicker ones as I need to fit bump stops to prevent the tyres rubbing.
If it is a big problem then adjustable bars would solve it.

Dai

Posted: 27 Oct 2005 08:45 pm
by 340GLT
true are you bringing loads of parts to the meet mate i think i may be spending some early birthday money!!!
Cheers Adam

Posted: 27 Oct 2005 08:48 pm
by classicswede
Ok Give me 5mins and I will Post in the OFFER section
For ppl to order parts for me to take.

Dai

Posted: 28 Oct 2005 10:45 pm
by foggyjames
Adjustable link arms...now you're pimping...I mean talking ;)

cheers

James

Posted: 28 Oct 2005 10:51 pm
by 340GLT
Yeh demon tweeks do link bars you can buy!! I'm tempted now!!!
Cheers Adam

Posted: 28 Oct 2005 11:04 pm
by foggyjames
They're usually custom made to suit...make sure DT's ones are a suitable length. Also check the prices - DT can be daylight robbers! My usual proceedure is...
1) Find what I want in the DT catalogue.
2) Order from Rally Design :-D

cheers

James

Posted: 28 Oct 2005 11:07 pm
by 340GLT
Got their addy?
Cheers Adam

Posted: 28 Oct 2005 11:14 pm
by foggyjames
Tell you what chief braking system engineer...stick "rally design" into google, and see what happens...top tip, it's the first result ;)

cheers

James

Posted: 29 Oct 2005 11:37 pm
by classicswede
DT are very high prices. The ends of the are or set at angle so will not be a std tube with ends on. Probably the best thing to do will be to mod the original.

Dai

Posted: 20 Jul 2006 04:20 pm
by 5lab
dai

you appear to be the sus expert. would it be possible (from memory) to raise the rear sus by simply moving the rear axel to BELOW the sus, rather than above?

cheers

Hugh

Posted: 20 Jul 2006 04:35 pm
by redline
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dont forget your furry dice and whippy aeriel lol

Posted: 20 Jul 2006 05:04 pm
by 5lab
did you mean to post the smallest picture EVER?

Posted: 20 Jul 2006 05:38 pm
by MJ
Not sure, but I can't make much out in it ;)