Hello guys

The variomatic on my '84 340 has died and I need to change it. I've found a donor car, any tips concerning a variomatic swap?

It's been a long time since I last did one I dont remeber any problems other that a couple of rusted bolts.

you can change it as a unit.

remove driveshafts (2 to wheel, 1 to engine)

loosen gear selector lever

support it at at least 2 places

etc. (you do not have to take of the drive belts)

how do yyou do it without removing drive belts?

remove the subframe to wich the primair and secundair are attached.

4 bolts.... it's the "H" frame

capiche?

Hi there!

How come you need to change the whole unit? What failed? normally the diaphrams can give out and need replacing but what happened with yours?

Im in the process of trying to learn the CVT as Ive got a CVt 340 also

cheers
Shimon

the big nut you see on the left side of the picture (center nut of secundary pulley) can run loose and destroy its thread.

the differential can fail

the pulleys can corrode badly so that they eat up the belts.


all three are possible reasons to do a complete exchange.

hi there..... quick question....

picture

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d156/ ... 0/cvt2.jpg

is the secondary the bit labelled as so in the picture?

is the labelled nut on the secondary the one that can run loose? Should I check this on my CVT car? whats the problem here... the nut runs loose and damages the thread? is it not repairable?

are differential failures uncommon? due to low fluid in diff??

pulley surfaces... they rust and hence damages belts?

can they be sanded smooth again? painted??


cheers..

thanks for your info!

look forward to reply!!

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all indication arrows correct.


no painting on the surfaces. if there is some rust at the places where the belt has sat over long periods of time, thats no worry.
remove any 'blisters' of chromium because these tend to break, and the edges are so sharp they cut up the belt. sand the edges of the rusty areas, so that all is smooth again. you can't do much more, honestly...


the nut often comes loose just a bit, so that the pulley can move a tiny bit under it. (it moves coaxially) due to that movement, the teething that supplies the transfer of power gets damaged. if this becomes severe the nut runs off and the pulley gets launched to the bottom of the car....

Greetings Wouter

diff problems mostly occur to people with sportive driving style.

oil level is something to check, should be part of the "2 yearly change/check all fluids procedure"

I'll check the nut on mine next time Im under the car... wait a while as its cold here at the moment!

When the pulley moves, if this nut is loose.... its moves from side to sides ie looking down at the gearbox through the floor but facing the boot ...the pulley would be moving left to right.....

So for the pulleys its just a case of sanding them smooth.....?

What are the pulleys made from? steel?

thanks for your advice!! very cool!!


enjoy your 340!

Shimon

Im going to try to find the tightening torque for that secondary bolt.... dya know what its "techincal" name would be in a manual??

cheers

thanks for all your advice!! really useful!!

Dya know of any good CVT service manuals? Ive already got Haynes and Autodata... is the Volvo one the good in your experience?

Im trying to learn to service them from books really as they are quite uncommon and garages dont know what to do... are they easy to work on?

If you haven't looked already, there are some articles on servicing/maintaining variomatics on the volvo owner's lub site - particularly to do with adjusting the clutch and belt tension. Thought this might help.

Ed

cheers!! Ed.. is yours a CVT? dya service it yourself? didnt you have some probs with the clutch engagement recently? what was the post called?

cheers