B14 questions part 2

Post by **foggyjames** » 10 Jan 2006 10:57 pm

Ok B14 experts...after an evening of work, I have a statement to make, and two more questions...

1) Whoever designed the B14 fitment in the 340 engine bay was a fool. As far as I can tell it's impossible to fit the manifolds with all the studs in place. I ended up removing the two studs nearest the interior, then replacing them once the manifolds were in place.

2) How the bloody hell do you get the brake servo pipe back on?!

3) What should the idle solenoid connection read at idle? Mine intermittantly refuses to idle, and I'm trying to work out if the solenoid is getting the correct 'signal' from the relay box. The connection being dodgy is almost certainly the actual cause of my troubles, but I'd like to double check that the system is working as it should.

I'm off to make tea...let's see if I can get a reply to both points before I'm back

cheers

James

Post by **huskyracer** » 10 Jan 2006 11:07 pm

err, pass on the manifold problem, I ripped my b14 out and threw it as hard as possible towards the end of the garden were it still resides now!
when I go for a fag in a mo I will have a look at the servo connection and see what I can see. and before redline starts, not THAT kind of fag.
I am pretty sure the idle solenoid should have 12v constant with the ignition on .

Post by **huskyracer** » 10 Jan 2006 11:55 pm

had a look at the old engine, nothin doin there, from memory, I think it had a short length of rubber pipe between the hard black plastic servo pipe and the stub on the manifold. is that what you needed to know?

Post by **340GLT** » 11 Jan 2006 12:16 am

If your talking about the pipe into the master cylinder it just pushes in???
As for the manifolds pass mate, never had em off, it may be though that you cant with the rest of the exhaust attatched??? Tried undoing the exhaust clamps to give you a bit of movement??
Cheers Adam

Post by **foggyjames** » 11 Jan 2006 01:37 am

I've got the manifolds on AOK - I was just commenting that the design makes it a PITA!

AFAIK the solenoid ought to get 12v when it's below ~1700rpm and with the throttle closed. At all other times, it shouldn't (as a fuel saving measure), hence the throttle-stop sensor. Just wondering if anyone could confirm....

That description of the pipe sounds spot-on. The problem is I took mine off (to remove the manifolds), but the pipe has gone stiff (ooh err), and having removed it (and about an inch of the end of the pipe) I can't get it back on, as there's zero give in the rubber to get it over the tapping. I guess I could replace that short length of rubberised hose...

cheers

James

Post by **pettaw** » 11 Jan 2006 07:05 am

I think you misunderstood, Foggy. The solenoid should be energised at all times, EXCEPT when the throttle is closed and the revs are above 1500 ish. You haven't got the correct connector on yours anyway to connect the throttle sensing wire so you should have 12V on all the time.

The manifolds aren't designed to be lifted off with the exhaust still on, so its pretty impressive you managed to do it. Last time we did it we destroyed the gasket. Luckily we were changing it anyway but if not.....

I couldn't get that hose off the manifild cos it was completely seized on last time, so I pulled the other end off the servo

I would spend 25 quid and get a whole new hose. A good seal is important cos if it leaks because of its diameter you'll get a BIG air leak.

Hope that helps.

Post by **srtames** » 11 Jan 2006 02:53 pm

hi James, you should have 10volts on the solenoid at all times. But I found mine could stick when starting so I have chopped 1/8 in off end of solenoid plunger so the fuel can get through at any time. This causes running on when you switch off sometimes but the engine idles much smoother without the solenoid working. Also check the small vacuum pipe to the carb is not leaking or blocked. Worth checking your compressions also in case you have a leaky valve.
When the engine is warm the 1.4 idles very smoothly but is a bit lumpy on start up on a cold day.

Good luck, Steve

Post by **shimon340** » 11 Jan 2006 07:13 pm

i wasnt aware the idle solenoid had a throttle sensor wire also... need to check that on mine.

The idle solenoid shuts above 1700 rpm with the throttle closed....

I understand that its open once the ignition is on as this is the idle jet for fuel and also shuts when the ignition is off as this stops running on.... but how does the 1700 rpm bir work? what causes it to close above these revs if the throttle is closed... Im guessing here this is to save fuel once you lift off the gas in gear at speed... the revs stay up but the throttle can be closed as you lift off the accelerator

anyone got a picture of the two wires on the carb? the idle solenoid I know but the throttle switch is interesting.....

I always thought the second yellow wire to the carb was an earth....static build up due to fuel flow - more a problem with diesel and jet fuel not petrol....

cheers guys

shimon