Does anyone know of a gearbox for the 360 that can handle more power? I'm going to fit a 2.0 turbo or a 2.3 turbo and I would like to punch it up to 220 bhp. The diff will not like this. I was thinking about ,aybe an alfa 75 or a porsche 924 gearbox and diff. Does anyone have experience with this?

I think gearbox WILL handle +220hp because its almost unbreakable gearbox from volvo 200 and 700-series. Only "problem" will be propshaft and its mountings..
Some people says that gearbox/propshaft-combination handles +250hp but i dont think so. There are many broken propshafts even with stockpowered engines

I agree about the gearbox, my worries are with the differential. I don't think that will hold up the increase of power.

Differential / rearend will also handle that kind of power. Im not sure about driveshafts and propshaft.

If you want REALLY good differential/rearend/transmission-combination,
then use those parts from big Volvos (200,700,900-series).
There is more job but it really can handle a lot of power.
You must put transmission to "normal"place in front, then propshaft..etc.

OR use difflock from big Volvos. Either way you do it,there i A LOT of job!!

Do you know of a way to increase the strength of the propshafts and connections? I had worries about the diff because I already had to replace it once. The former owner loved making burnouts...

Nothing wont last long if you burnout too much! (im not blaming you )
There is no help to increase its strenght...maybe to weld some extra to those seams

Diff goes first, then goes the gearbox.. When those break, depends on how worn parts are. If parts are in goof condition they will hold 200-250hp without abuse. (No rubber burning etc...) Torque tube it self isn't so weak. Only the connection between gearbox and the propshaft can get loose and then it might break but that can be reinforced by welding the two hex bolt bands, so they can't get loose so easily... Makkiver had something like 220hp and he went through couple diffs and gearboxes. Same thing with Sika's white turbo (the one with roof change) he has about 200hp and has changed both diff and gearbox at least once. If you find diff and gearbox which are not worn then it will hold. But if parts are worn it is easy to break them with stock power and abusive usage too...

Some people have looked into putting in a trans-axle from 928 Porsche. It seems to be the closest match. With some work I would say that it fits. Though it takes some cash, because first of all parts are not cheap and the torque tube might be needed to have custom made/modified if it isn't equal length with one in 300-series etc... But with some money, custom fabrication and time it seems that it would be the best bet.

Drivetrain from 928:



Also the differential of the bigger Volvos (1030 and 1031 diffs) can be modified to fit in 300-series, but it will need some fabrication skills. There's a pic of 1031 diff with aluminium casing, modified to fit in 300-series:



And then there's the possibility of the usage of internals of 1030/1031 and putting them inside a 300-series diff casing. That requires some modification skills too as those won't fit in straight as they rub against the casing's walls in 300-series diff :

thanx for the pics and explenation. About the link between gearbox and propshaft, what do you mean by hex bolt? Those to bolts in the couple piece? I think it would be a good option to modify the diff off a 740 or 940. I might know some people that could make this work. It might be a good idea to keep power down to 180 bhp, because I don't think I can drive with a feather foot...

There's a guy here making about 300 at the wheels on a stock drivetrain, but he does treat it kindly.

220bhp ought to be no problem at all.

cheers

James

even for the diff? I'm currently taking the volvo apart, but i've been told the black paintjob will be very expensive... I will probably have to go for a cheper colour, bright yellow or something.

Yes, entirely stock.

Huskyracer is making ~230lbft and 210bhp on a 340 drivetrain with a steel prop.

cheers

James

Just to stick my oar in:-

I assume anyone looking for more power is using a redblock and 360 torque tube drive.

Clutch/gearbox should be ok with any reasonable power.

Weak point on driveline is short twin clamp connector between drive quill and g/box (split, splined tube with two 'square' clamps. These can fail with standard power at anything from 70,000mls on. Sooner if disturbed. Big mistake is greasing them. Fit them dry, spotlessly clean, and correctly torqued (34Nm). If you must use lubricant use a 'dry' (silicone) type and ONLY on the mating faces between the split tube and the clamp - NEVER on the splines.

The weak points otherwise are the general strength of the diff casing (distorts under a lot of power) but should be ok to 250-300, and the big looser - the planet gears, gear bushes and shaft. Wheelspinning one rear wheel will kill your diff most efficiently (and quickly) !!
I dont think there is much mileage in modding planets to take needle rollers. (machining shaft or boring out planets would weaken them too much.

Of course modding to fit lim-slip internals and an external casing cage would solve a lot (but it's probably easier to mod and fit an IRS diff from a late 760 or 960 saloon.

Sorry for sticking my oar in a long running thread (never could keep my mouth shut)!

Mac.

mac wrote: Sorry for sticking my oar in a long running thread (never could keep my mouth shut)!

Not atall! Some very useful information there. Guess I better stop giving it the large on right turn junctions However, does anyone know of a broken diff that hasn't ran dry of oil and with standard power? They're obviously fairly strong since 360 cup drivers are near standard cars - and they get some serious abuse!

Now that I know I can go for the original gearbox and diff, th question riss wich engine I should go for. I was thinking about the 2.3 turbo, but a few people recommended me the 2.0 turbo. What do you guys think? In which Volvo's can I find the 2.0 turbo, and whats the difference between the 2.3 and 2.0 lookwise. I mean how can I differ the 2.3 from the 2.0 when it's stil in a car?

The block will have B200 or B230 cast into the side, and in theory there should be a label on the timing belt cover.

You'll find a B200ET, B230ET and B230FT in a 740, and a B200FT, a B230FT, and a B230FK in a 940. 760s got B230ETs (and B23ETs if we're being fussy), and 960 Turbos got B230FTs.

I'd get a late B230FK and put a FT wastegate actuator on it. The FK will be less worn than an FT, and the ~8psi from the hotter actuator will give it a bit of extra kick. How far you take it beyond that...is up to you!

The FTs have a better fuel system (better economy and adaptation to modifications), and earlier spooling turbo. They also have a stronger block if you want to get crazy, although you can get 300bhp from the weakest block if you're careful with the tuning. Putting a 531 (better flowing) head and A-cam, plus a Garrett T3 turbo from a B230ET is a popular upgrade.

The B200FT has more headgasket area, so it should take more boost before it blows the HG....but I'd not take that too seriously. The B200FT makes almost exactly the same torque as the B230FK, so you've gained nothing in drivetrain preservation. I was planning to fit the 2.0 for a while, but decided against it. I now have an FK in my shed...

cheers

James