how can the engine mount brackets on a 360 gle b20 be modified to have a turbo fitting?

Why would you like to modify engine mounting brackets for that?
I just find that bit difficult method to solve problem, maybe exhaust manifold that puts turbo to front and up would be better?

It depends which turbo you use. For example newer style turbo manifold with Mitsubishi turbo does seem to fit in place without any modifications but the new oil return pipe.

http://www.300power.com/forum/attachmen ... _3_013.jpg
http://www.300power.com/forum/attachmen ... _3_021.jpg

With the T3 and older style manifold the wastegate actuator and the oil return become a problem as there isn't much room.

There are several ways to modify the engine mounts, some people have only modified the body side bracket to get some more room, and kept the hydraulic damper and the body side bracket. Some people have replaced all the original mountings, in a solution like that you can have more room and replace a hydraulic mount with more stiffer damper, but there's a little more work of course.

Here's an example of where all the mountings have been replaced with custom made ones to get some more room for the turbo

http://www.volvo300club.nl/discus/messages/29/12015.jpg
http://www.volvo300club.nl/discus/messages/29/12025.jpg

Of course if you are a good welder there's also a possibility of making a custom tubular exhaust manifold which would also have a positive effect to the performance compared to stock turbo manifold.

Then there's the bit rough way to get room for the turbo, just put a short adapter between the turbo and the manifold so the turbo will sit higher. Not a best way to do it but it works.


I would build a 360 Turbo now, I would go for the tubular manifold as it is the best solution for performance too.

i have all the parts needed turbo and down pipe with injector.

I'll bring this topic from the dead to ask a few questions...

What cars/years have the later style mitsu turbo ?!

I'm thinking in a lowboost setup for my 360 ( 0,4 bar max), changing only the minimum parts... Will the stock renix manage the ignition retard for the boost ?! I can solve fuelling issues only upgrading the FPR ? Are injectors needed ?

I search a lot but I can't find concrete answers

Thanks a lot !!

As long as your 360 isn't an early high compression one then it'll take 7.5psi fine, thats what mines running at. All the info is in my thread "Alis drift car" in general discussion, you'll probably want an aftermarket ecu such as megasquirt or the ecu system from a 940 (not a nice job as the loom is tangled in with the car loom)

Did I read of late that the same ECU/Loom is on a certain spec 240 without being tied into the main loom, think it was a Foggy post on the VOC

I believe James mentioned something to that effect here a day or two ago...

Ah, here tis http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... php?t=4773

The Foggster wrote:Pulling the LH2.4 system from a 240 seems to be the easiest donor, as it was 'tacked on', rather than being part of the main car loom as was the case for the 940.

I thought that'd be the case with the 240's, gonna be a hard job finding a late 90 onwards(?!) 240 in the scrappy though

They must be tight in Brummieland, as they're everywhere here. I've now seen a 240 LH2.4 loom, and it's very much separate from the rest of the car. It also has the correct wiring layout, as 7/900 series turbos have the PAS pump and alternator swapped over when compared with a 240 and 360. To be fair though, MS is probably the way forward.

Late 700 turbos and most 900 turbos have the '90+' manifold and Mitsubishi TD04-13C turbo. Some late 700s have a TD05-12B, and some early 740s have a Garrett T25 - both of which are of 'unconfirmed' status re: fitment.

cheers

James