HEEELP!! Need new Clutch for CVT but don't want a mortgage!

Post by **Essex1** » 23 Oct 2006 01:57 pm

Clutch has gone on our trusty 340DL CVT (1.4), but volvo want £245.33 for a new one (probably plus VAT too..)!! This is pretty much what you'd get for the car. Need to procure one before the weekend but don't really want to spend that amount. Does anyone know of a cheaper (UK) supplier or anyway of repairing this cheaply, or do I have to just find the obscene quantity of cash??? HEEEEEELP!!!(pleeeeease!!!)

Post by **foggyjames** » 24 Oct 2006 10:49 pm

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0039746319

This guy is in Switzerland, but he's a good man, and I've bought from him numerous times. Just make sure you mention that it's urgent, and he'll get it to you fast.

cheers

James

Post by **petefarrell360** » 24 Oct 2006 11:35 pm

Missed this....... indeed the link to that chap is a good one. I nearly bought that clutch myself, but I managed to source one in the UK cheaply, as the postage bumped it up a bit, but still very reasonable for genuine Volvo kit.

What's the current situation, are you having any luck? If you're completely stuck, I do have the old parts from mine, which although very well worn might be able to get you out of trouble, as it still drove and we were going to correct it with shims, but decided as we were taking it all apart to check it a new clutch was worthwhile.

Pete

Post by **Essex1** » 25 Oct 2006 09:38 am

Thanks guys, I've sent the link home in case of future probs - unfortunately I got it a few hours after i'd had to order the bits from the stealership. I need them for the weekend as I have a ramp slot booked and they have to come from Gothenburg, so they wouldn't have made it if I waited any longer. I really hurt in the wallet, but I'm not giving up on the old girl yet!
Any tips for fitting the clutch at all? I hear a mention of shims (can I use washers??) and a tool for adjusting the clutch plate arms??

Post by **foggyjames** » 25 Oct 2006 09:51 am

I'm glad you've been prepared to pay the extortionate sum that Volvo ask for certain parts, rather than scrap the car. The latter is what most people would do, but for a month(and a half?)'s finance payment on something newer, you're sorted again.

I'm sure Pete and Andy will comment on the clutch change. As far as I'm aware, it's straightforward when you have the right bits.

cheers

James

Post by **Essex1** » 25 Oct 2006 11:57 am

Well, its cost pennies to run for the last 3 years, so I can forgive it the odd blip on the expense scales. I think i've spend 50p for a bulb on mot work for the last 3 tests!! If only I could fit air con, power steering and get it retrimmed in leather, i'd probably be allowed to hang onto it forever!!

Post by **foggyjames** » 25 Oct 2006 12:16 pm

Leather is available, as is A/C, and there are aftermarket PAS kits available (I have one for sale).

cheers

James

Post by **mac** » 25 Oct 2006 02:33 pm

If you look in the newly opened Technical section, Aymat has posted my CVT article in the 'how to' guides - that should give you a rough idea how it all works.

In reality a CVT clutch change is very similar to a conventional clutch change EXCEPT you have to use shims under the cover plate to give a specific clearance between the centre plate and the flywheel. This clearance affect clutch engagement speed and is critical. You may need to measure what you have and order the relevant shims (see my article). NO you cant use washers! (they are special 'boomerang' shaped shims).

The clutch finger 'tool' you refer to is for setting the cover plate release finger height and should be nescessary only if dismanting the cover plate. I shouldn't need to do this with a new unit.

Having fitted the clutch you will also need to adjust the disengage servo rod. (again see my article).

As foggy says Pete and Andy have recently done all this and I'm sure can answer any questions.

Good luck - Mac.

Post by **petefarrell360** » 25 Oct 2006 06:37 pm

As Foggy says, good man for spending the money on the part. As he says, what's the point in scrapping a car when it only requires a part that costs a fraction of what a newer unknown car will, that has just as much potential to go wrong.

My vario has an aftermarket PAS sytem fitted, which cost over £1000 when new, but is it rather nice with it, not that I've driven a non-pas 1.4 to be fair, but it matches my 360 GLT system quite well, not too light, it still has some feeling there.

Leather doesn't seem to be as rare as we once thought! There are quite a few cars cropping up with leather lately, so keep your eyes peeled, it's a simple bolt in job as long as it's a 5 door car.

As for shims, as Mac says, they are an odd shape, so yes, it's best to use them! From memory they are 2.4 mm or something like that from new, but eitherway, they might be made up of two thicknesses, so you might be able to use what you already have, but if not, get ready to order some from Volvo. But I'd hope your car had been adjusted and reshimmed at some point to make adjustments. You never know, it could be that all that really needs doing is the gap adjusting with the shims, as should be done at certain intervals anyway.

The hardest thing we actually found was refitting the propshaft believe it or not! But we got over that. Any questions, fire away, Andy or myself might be able to help! The resident UK vario expert Will hasn't been around much lately, but Wouter is very knowledgable about the vario system.

Pete

Post by **Essex1** » 25 Oct 2006 08:48 pm

Cheers very much! I'll post back once I've had a bash at this - really gotta hope that I don't need the shims. The stealership was a bit vague about the availability of parts and was a bit loathe to use something he called 'microfiche'!!!! Damn technophobe!!
P.S would love to fit the aforementioned leather accessories, but car is a 3 door...I'm guessing thats a prob?

Post by **pettaw** » 25 Oct 2006 08:55 pm

you don't need the microfiche for the CVT clutch parts, all the part numbers are available on his Vadis system. Whether Volvo still make them or not....another story.

Anyway, yeah the shims. The normal thickness for a new clutch would be 3.0mm or 2x1.5mm shims. Thing is that although you're putting on a new clutch, the flywheel will be slightly worn so you'll need to measure with a micrometer what shims you've got at the moment, and then put the new clutch in with the same shims and measure what clearance you've got then order parts.

Mac's CVT book available on the 'technical' section shows what sizes are available. They cost roughly a couple of quid each from the dealer and obviously you'll need three of whatever sizes you'll want to use. Oh, and contrary to 'popular' advice we went down to almost the minimum clearance of 0,1mm and we don't get any clutch drag issues at all. The clutch engages nicely at about 1150-1200 rpm.

Post by **foggyjames** » 25 Oct 2006 09:40 pm

You'd need to use the 'skins' from the 5dr seats, and graft them on to 3dr frames. Adam (340GLT) did this with a set of Redline seats, and being a student, might even be willing to make you a set for some beer tokens

cheers

James

Post by **petefarrell360** » 25 Oct 2006 11:46 pm

That's right, we went to the minimum stated clearance, and we were a bit apprehensive, as elsewhere, larger tolerances had been stated, but it worked perfectly. A good set of feeler gauges is worthwhille on this job........! Good luck, post back if you have any problems. We were suprised at how simple the job was in the end really, it's often made to seem harder than it is as people don't understand the sytem or don't want to.
Pete

Post by **Essex1** » 30 Oct 2006 03:56 pm

Well, it's done!! Car drives beautifully now. Think the gap ended up near the top of the tolerance range (0.4 and a bit mm) with shim spacing of 2.6mm which was all that was in there. I have to say I can't see any earthly reason why (with an accurate micrometer measurement) you couldn't use washers of the correct thickness if you couldn't get the shims (some unavailable according to dealer). Quite impressed with service by Lookers volvo, very quick and polite, though they hadn't gold-plated the clutch cover as the price implied. Had a lot of bother getting the starter motor out (stuck solid on the collet) and reaching the third bolt (the picture in the haynes manual showed this bolt being accessed with the unit on a bench - very helpful). Ended up having to loosen the down pipe from the manifold to get the clearance to remove the bell housing and found at least one sensor the manual insisted didn't exist. Removing the prop shaft was a bit of a pain too, but went back in ok with the liberal use of a couple of very large pry bars - these were also instrumental in the removal and tools of the day, second only to the small palm ratchet (a lifesaver especially for that 3rd bolt). A special thanks also goes to the airgun that helped remove one of the bellhouse mounts. Shouted and swore alot, with Dr. Haynes copping it the most, though did briefly consider creating a website called Curseyourvolvo.com. Sustenance provided by Maccy D's, Ali Baba's chips and Nescafe instant. Scare of the day followed test drive round the block and clouds of smoke emanating from the bonnet - luckily, this turned out to only be the WD40 burning off the manifold bolts. Time to complete approx 8 hours - book time is 2. How inadequate do I feel??! For my next trick I have to do Valve stem oil seals and resolve the funny smell around the fuel filler area (probably perished pipes).
P.S Thanks for all the helpful info (especially the guide), this really is a great forum for the 300!!

Post by **Chris_C** » 30 Oct 2006 06:01 pm

Glad you got it sorted mate, as with any car job, take the book time, and multiply by the number of days you'll need the car next week...