wont start

B14, B172, B19/200, D16 engine, ignition, cooling, fuel & exhaust system, gearbox, variomatic, final drive... | Tuning: engine swaps, welded diff, clutch upgrades...
NO parts requests here, please use our V3M BUY & SELL corner
Post Reply
oli
Posts: 59
Joined: 26 Sep 2006 09:04 pm

wont start

Post by oli »

1.7
on occasions the car wont start.
It cranks over fine and is reluctant to start.
it may be me but it seems to be when i park on a slight gradient?
car isnt hesitant while driving.
can also happen more than once i.e. difficult to start, then longish drive. stop and then does it again.
the only times i managed to get it started would be with the choke fully out and after constant stamping/foot to floor on gas (due to extreme frustration and being pi$$ed off)

any ideas as I thought I cured it with some carb cleaner last night but it still happened :?

was going to treat it to some rimmage and bits but not if it pisses me off

please help the daily hack get some wheels :wink:

spank you
User avatar
MJ
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 1933
Joined: 24 Feb 2005 10:32 pm
Location: Devon/Staffordshire, UK

Post by MJ »

Do the problems relate to engine temperature at all? sometimes our 1.7 is hesitant when warm, as opposed to hot or cold, and I know Chris had severe problems with warm starting which I believe he resolved, so he could be the person to answer this...
Image
oli
Posts: 59
Joined: 26 Sep 2006 09:04 pm

Post by oli »

possibility

but leaving a car for 15-20 mins after a 15min drive, then starting it considered warm?
User avatar
Chris_C
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 9600
Joined: 18 Jun 2004 11:53 pm
Location: South Coast, UK

Post by Chris_C »

When is it not starting? You said on a gradient, and then after 15-20mins, does it matter if hot/cold or the weather etc?

If it's the warm start thing, I'd put money on you having a replacement weber carb. The warm start issues I had were if you'd driven long enough to get off choke, and left it for 15-30 mins, it wouldn't catch.

I "properly" fixed mine 2 days ago, I'd bodged it so I could get it start a couple of months ago. Can you give us some more symptoms?
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
oli
Posts: 59
Joined: 26 Sep 2006 09:04 pm

Post by oli »

well the car starts fine from my drive (flat ground) probably cold too as I only use to pick up my boys after work so not driven prior to that.

after 10 min drive i park up on a kerb to get my boys. on occasions this hasn't started first time when i return (15mins?). I guess the car is warm as its probably no more than 2 miles distance (town)

weatherwise - rain that one time and others have been cool days (hasnt seen summer yet in my ownership.

thiking about it - it probably didnt have anything to do with the gradient/slope as on different occasions it has been flat ground.

i ooked at the fuel line to the pump and there's a couple of tubes leading to/form the pump. one is black (has a fuel filter plumbed in) and the other is clear and I can see fuel attempting to go up the tube into the pump not constant flow but pulses.

also the fuel filter looks a bit mank too

Would these haveanything todo with it? I thought it could be fuel linep/ump related

ps

thanks for input :)
dalahare
Posts: 291
Joined: 17 Feb 2006 01:51 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz

Post by dalahare »

Replace the fuel filter, it isn't worth much, check the air filter and sparkplug, make sure the basics are all good before you go chasing anything bigger.
User avatar
foggyjames
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 9361
Joined: 29 Jan 2004 04:20 am
Location: Nottingham, UK

Post by foggyjames »

If it won't start when warm, try the 'its flooded' starting technique - choke fully in, foot to floor, THEN crank it over. If that sorts it every time, you're most likely getting fuel draining into (and pooling in) the inlet manifold.

The other likely cause is a weak spark, so it could be worth pulling the coil off the Renix unit and cleaning up the contacts...and changing the plugs/leads/cap/rotor if they're old. It cost me £25 to do the whole lot on Nessy (a 1.4).

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
classicswede
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 5471
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 06:52 pm
Location: Anglesey North Wales
Contact:

Post by classicswede »

i would agree with James,

it does sound like floodding to me..

When this is happening if you take the air filter off you can often see petrol dripping in the carb when the neinge is off. My slaoon is doing this. Not bithered about that as if I keep it I will be gassing it of course.
Dai

Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk

http://www.classicswede.com

phone/text 07824887160

Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

Image
oli
Posts: 59
Joined: 26 Sep 2006 09:04 pm

Post by oli »

cheers lads

I've put in a new airfilter and fuel filter and have tested it so far and seem s fine at th moment.

Hopefully this has sorted it as the air filter was full of dead flies or something and the fuel filter was well kinda murky

I tried driving warming up until the choke was not needed and switched off. waited about 5 mins and started it up fine.

Then did the same and waited about 15 mins and started ok.

If she behaves 'may' look at springs blocks and rimmage. and maybe some sparks to the rear end :wink:

thanks

oli
classicswede
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 5471
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 06:52 pm
Location: Anglesey North Wales
Contact:

Post by classicswede »

Hope that has sorted it.

Keep us posted.
Dai

Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk

http://www.classicswede.com

phone/text 07824887160

Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

Image
User avatar
Chris_C
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 9600
Joined: 18 Jun 2004 11:53 pm
Location: South Coast, UK

Post by Chris_C »

Yeah, if that is it you've been lucky ;) The other things I'd look at if you havn't had it long are the state of the rotor arm and dizzy cap, and also to see if your carb is a solex (it should be, but some were replaced) or a weber. Have a nose at the drivers side of the carb, under the air filter, if there are two wires going to it (blue with red stripe) then it'll be the solex.

The weber doesn't have a fuel cut off valve, which after lots of thinking, is the only thing I can come up with as to why mine wouldn't warm start (the only way it would was to use the "flooded" start technique James says)

Good luck with it!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Post Reply