My qustion now for you all is what goodies to you want to see developed for the 300 series? As you already know I'm mainly into suspension parts but I'm will to consider anything almost.
The one thing I don't realy intend to do is coilover conversions as I don't think much of coil overs for ROAD use.

What ideas have you got?

well i havent really got my car yet so i dont know if this is my place to post, but some nice things would be engine parts (for more power, strength, and reliability), rollcages possibly, fibreglass panels (bonnet, boot), an ITB setup maybe?

Rear ARB would be good. Front/rear strut braces. LSD

brakes , clutches transmission parts ready for engine swaps.

the futures dorifto for sales .

quaife can supply diffs , dont know anybody willing to pay £750 for the privilege of one tho .

i certainly think getting rid of the de dion could be a real incentive , its heavy and just sings out for a proper IRS with coilover , kill two birds with one stone , and likley not to be that expensive .

As for engines , manifolds for bike throttle bodies , and of course decent exhaust manifolds .

then again i dont know anyone with an engine capable of outflowing a std easily available manifold .

perhaps a log header for 1.4 turbo boys .

if you need help with laser cutting i have a good contact who works on night shift .

Dont know what to suggest really as there is nothing i want at the mo that i havent got!!! lol
I think a simple strut brace is a good one!!
And the rear IRS would be good but i think pricey for a lot of budgets?
personnaly i am more than happy with the handling of my car now and wouldnt alter it at all. If i think of anyting else i will post it here!!
Adam

Rear arb would be a good step I reckon, not sure how much work converting from dedion to something else wouldbe, so I'm not gonna comment on that!

One thing I havn't been able to find much on is cams for the 1.7T, kent will do a regrind, as will catcams, but maybe something off the shelf? Problem is its a bit application specific I guess those who are dropping in turbos all want different things from them.

an anti roll bar at the rear would be nice but only if the front spring rate was increased , could be bad for oversteer .

my 340 was alway quite well balanced , understeering more than oversteering.

i suppose if it was made adjustable that would be better , it could also be used as a location device . it would have to be something like 12-15mm in diameter , the front of a 440/480 one springs to mind

L S D we need to get one that fits straight in and a bit better then welding it up

Dont the Dana 30 LSD's bolt in?

Anyways: rear ARB is a nice idea ..

*says again* ITB's for the glt?

IvanAE86 wrote:Dont the Dana 30 LSD's bolt in?

Anyways: rear ARB is a nice idea ..

1030/1031 inner parts will fit in, but not bolt-on. It's a tight fit, you have to grind the crown wheel bolts and there's still some rubbing between the bolts and the casing, but it works. If casing would be grinded too it would fit even better.

I think that very large scale mods, like IRS and such, aren't something which can be manufactured for a sensible price with such low production numbers. I think that energy and attention should be put more on the parts, which are yet effective, but still maintain a reasonable "bang for buck" ratio.

Of course IRS and such are very nice, but setup like that isn't so hard to build by your self either, if someone really wants one. Full bolt-on kit wouldn't be very easy to manufacture, so it's pretty much same to do the whole job yourself.

Of course if these bigger mod-kits wouldn't affect on the availability of the other parts, then I don't mind.. But I think that even Dai hasn't got endless resources.

Rear ARB would be definately good, though there are shops around which make such an ARB as you want for a low price, but there's always the hassle to take the car in etc... so 300-series spesific would be good. Even better if the solution, where welding of the rear axle wouldn't be required, would be possible, because in here, welding of the rear axle isn't allowed if you wan't your car to be road legal.

If rear ARB is added, also a WATT-link would be quite good also, especially on high power appilications. Maybe a similiar DIY-kit, which are available for 200-series, would be possible for 300-series also. A kit where all the parts come with in, but the adjustments and the setup would be done by yourself.

And then one thing which comes in to my mind are the engine mounts on the Volvo engine models. As there are many 360s on the road, where engine hangs way too low because of the worn hydraulic mounts, and Volvo doesn't supply those anymore. Early Volvo engine models came with a rubber-metal type mounts (not sandwich mounts though) so maybe something similiar would be possible? I think that early mounts featured a metal casing which had rubber inside (quite like the newer type hydraulic mount, but instead of hydraulic fluid, there was rubber) so even if the rubber would've gone bad, the engine wouldn't have dropped on the road, like it would happen with a normal sandwhich type mount if it would be used in a setup, where engine is hanged on the mounts. Here's my illustration of the older type mount, it's not accurate I think, but I think the structure was something like that. (Normal sandwhich type mount on the left and early 300-series one on the right) http://koti.mbnet.fi/mtn/images/autot/v ... ntings.JPG red parts are metal and black parts are rubber.

Though the stock early rubber mount setup of the Volvo also included a shock absorber between the front beam and the engine, so I don't know if something like that would be required with other mounts, than hydraulic ones, when the engine is hanging on the mounts.

Of course the best solution would be conversion kit for 240-type setup, where engine is sitting on the mounts, but this might be again a too big package?

So far better clutches for Volvo engine models are available from other makes and models as bolt-on (Bigger Volvos if central part is switched and straight bolt-on can be found from Opel (Vauxhall)/VW sector), so those are not needed so badly, but I don't know what's the situation with 1.4 and 1.7 models.

I'll write more if something comes to mind.. Cheers.

Trouble with the LSD's will be that it'll be hard to get one that suits everyone. The quaife units are apparently totally useless for drifting and the mechanical types that drifters need still scrub and clunk at low speeds when the clutch is up.

I'd say we're quite a tight bunch over here on V3M compared to most car forums and although I think drifters will give you the most sales, the sad fact is that at the moment people are buying them as cheap drift practise cars, therefore unlikely to spend large amounts of money. I think therefore the best thing would be to try think of something cheap to produce and you should sell loads (just don't ask me what! lol)

Sure I read somewhere that you'd done some exhaust systems? Drifters seem to go for the 1.7s so perhaps you could do some off the shelf systems for them?

Problem with ITB's is going to be the ecu required to run them, I can see bike TB's megasquirt and a cam change being a nice upgrade though! Poly windows might be another good one?? Manifold for running twin carbs on a 1.7?? just throwing ideas around, i'll add more if I come up with any

I think Fuse and Ali have it... small common stuff is the way to keep the pennies in, but I've a feeling Dai will have been on it.

So, completely opposite to that general plan, intake/exhaust manfolds and downpipes for engine swaps?

why are drifters going for 1.7's more than the 2 litres?

the 1700cc are bullit proof i have give mine death and it still runs.
ajustable top strut mounts for lowered cars.
sump shields.
does any one know of a twin round headlight conversion?
engine parts are always gud.