Escaping oil filters?

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Roop
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Escaping oil filters?

Post by Roop »

I'm having a problem with oil filters coming off whilst driving my 360. For the full story see http://www.trampdrift.com/html/modules. ... 7&start=30.

In brief, it generally happens at mid to high RPM. I'll experience a sudden loss of pressure and lots of smoke and will open the bonnet to find the filter nestling inbetween the engine mount and the alternator with the thread damaged to the extent that it slides fully over the threaded spigot on the engine. A new filter screws on fine. This has now happened on two occaisons in four days. I'm using (wait for it...) Halfords filters.

I'm tightening the filters up really tight by hand and taking care not to cross thread them. Three possible causes have been suggested to me, but I'd really like to hear your views as I know you guys have a lot of experience with these cars. 1) Damaged thread on the engine is damaging the filters. 2) PCV system is blocked. 3) Halfords filters are made of poo and do not contain a suitable non-return valve or contain one which is of such poor quality it leads to a massive build up of pressure during use.

Any (helpful) suggestions are much appreciated. I've done a search on here and found recommendations to use Mann brand filters, but nothing about inferior filters being liable to pop off!

Thanks.
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 »

Can't see the thread I'm afraid, asks for a password or registration.

I'm not a fan of cheap oil filters. Genuine Volvo, (made by Mann AFAIK) have the non return valve. My 360 had a Fram filter on it when I bought it, after it being running, driven into the workshop and prepared it for the oil change, on removing the filter it was empty! Great, lots of protection for the engine on start up then!

On my 340 the aftermarket filter was longer and didn't clear the PAS system fitted afterwards for the pump, however a genuine one would have done!

I can't really help on the matter you're experiencing, other than it sounds like there could be excessive vibration making it come loose, or as suggested, and all ready damaged thread at the engine end.

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
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Roop
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Post by Roop »

D'oh! Stupid, privacy seeking, TrampDrift! ;)

Thanks for your suggestion. At the moment, keeping the revs really low (sub 2k) seems to be a temporary solution, but it's slow and dull. Mann filters from GSF are cheaper than Halfords ones so I'll give one of them a try.

What's the best way to get in and inspect the thread on the engine, without removing the exhaust? Use a mirror?
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 »

Erm, from memory, from underneath you should have a fairly good view with splash guards removed. My most recent memories aren't of a 360 though, so all I can picture is a the undeside of a Vauxhall Van, as I was supplied with the wrong filter, DOH! That made a nice mess. Went on, felt like it has sealed and gone on well, infact hadn't, started up, light came on, switched off asap, oil on the drive, wooo hooo!

Anyway, yeah from underneath it should be fairly easy to see on a 360. If not, touch is one of the best ways to tell, and I'm sure you'll pick up on any imperfections that would be enough to cause such a problem.

And that sounds about right, the better make being cheaper than the after market ones! False economy at it's best!

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames »

I've heard Halfords is where all the baddest drifterz get their parts ;)

First vote is for the shitty Halfords filters. We hate them for a good reason.

Second vote is for a partially stripped thread on the stud in the block. It can be replaced...

Final vote is for doing it up too tight. It only needs to be (stiff) hand tight.

cheers

James
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Roop
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Post by Roop »

Thanks. Must say I've had the under-tray off and had a good feel of the engine thread and it seemed fine, but that was flat on my back by the side of the road, covered in oil and praying the vehicle jack wasn't about to topple and dump the crusty front valance into my neck, so maybe I wasn't paying enough attention. It certainly looked fine.

The plan is to source a new, quality filter and have a good, proper inspect of the thread before I fit it.

If the thread on the engine is damaged, how does one replace it? Or is this a more appropriate question for the Haynes manual? ;)
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames »

If my memory serves me correctly, it's like a hollow two ended bolt, but you'll need a biiiig deep socket to get it out - probably in the order of 27mm. 24 wont do it. I could be talking crap here, as I've spent the last few weeks staring at a turbo block, which is a touch different.

Volvo filters can be had off eBay for about a fiver posted, or Mann (although it has to be the right part number) ones are the same.

If it does prove to have been the Halfords filter, please shout at them...a lot...as oil flying all over a hot exhaust manifold is a serious fire risk.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
dalahare
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Post by dalahare »

ANd dumping oil all over the road isn't exactly good for other road users, espcially if someone is on a motorbike.

If you are stripping the thread on filters i'd say you are overtightening them and damaging the thread, then the pressure is doing the rest and pushing them off, when you install a filter rub some oil on the seal, spin it on untill it is seated, then give it about half a turn, no more.
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340GLT
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Post by 340GLT »

If the thread in the block is the same as used on most engines it doesnt have a nut at the base of it, use a pair of mole grips to get a damaged one out and lock two nuts together on the new one to refit, same principle as manifold studs etc.
Adam
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Roop
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Post by Roop »

Thanks for the input. I've done loads of filters before and never had a problem, but those were on Vauxhalls and Fords, where the filter was in a much easier place to reach. Because it's in an awkward place, I may be over tightening it because I'm fumbling with it and having trouble telling how tight it is.

Replacing the threaded bit sounds a lot easier than I had imagined. Phew! I expect I'll have trouble though. Currently the car is running and the filter isn't working loose, but I'm keeping it under 2500rpm just to be on the safe side.
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daffodil
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Post by daffodil »

hi make sure it is the right filter...a b14 will screw on a b200 and vice versa...b14 being metric and the b200 being imperial
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Post by classicswede »

My vote would be for the wrong filter.

If the thread is damaged then it can be replaced but be carfull as they can be very tight and hard to remove. Give a Volvo filter before anything else
Dai

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Roop
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Post by Roop »

I shall pop into GSF on Friday and pick up a Mann filter. Can't see any suitable Volvo OEM ones on Ebay. The Halfords filter is definitely metric thread, or so they say.
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames »

Ebay item: 130107067790

There are a few on there if you look closely :)

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
daffodil
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Post by daffodil »

so halfords have supplied you the wrong filter it should be imperial the same as the 200 and 700 series
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