Hi Guys,
I have'nt posted here in a while - been kind of busy. Anyway, I started using my 340 again recently and thought that the heater fan did'nt work in it at all(see previous post on heater fan!) I turned it on to full blast and it worked but wouldnt work at lower power settings. Anyway, I left it on with the engine running on full temp/full power for about 20 minutes, occasionally turning it down to the lower settings to see if they started to work. After 15 minutes, guess what? - it started to work!!. . Before anyone goes taking out half the dashboard to get at the fan, I suggest that you try this. In my case, it seems that all the fan needed was a bit of persuasion and heat to get rid of the dampness.
Thats my contribution anyway,
Cheers,
Paul.
1984 Volvo 340DL in family since new
1999 Subaru Impreza wrx Wagon
1991 Lancia Delta Integrale Evo
1977 Triumph Dolomite(Buried in a garage for the last 10 years)
1998 Alfa 156 Race Car.
We'll see - I'll let you know(hopefully for a long long time!)
Paul.
1984 Volvo 340DL in family since new
1999 Subaru Impreza wrx Wagon
1991 Lancia Delta Integrale Evo
1977 Triumph Dolomite(Buried in a garage for the last 10 years)
1998 Alfa 156 Race Car.
They do tend to come and go like that. Once a year mine packs up for a week or so - and at about the same time each year (usually at the end of the summer - mid September?!)!!
Long-term though its a downward spiral. But if it works for now, it works! That's how mine is...
Yeah I have had the same problem with my 340. The fan would not come on until about 5 mins after starting the car, but at the minute it seems to be working fine. It will only work on the higest power setting though, but not to worry.
Had this problem on both 340s in the past.Problem both times was poor connections on the speed control resistors (not in circuit for high speed) this unit is as big as a matchbox with three spade terminals on it. It is located in the air ducting next to the fan. You split the ducting by removing the spring clips resistor is tucked out of sight inside. Clean contacts with wire wool or similar and close spades up with pliers.
I've read the other discussion on heaters and can add my experience.
My 340's heater would work in summers and then sometimes not winters (for the last 2 years). As it began to get cold this year, after starting the car I would bang the heater duct with an ice scraper and then the heater would crank on. That worked for a couple of months and then it stopped working. I checked the fuses and the wiring under the dash and got no leads. Then I read the previous forum.
I opened the duct, got at the resistor coils and found that the thermal cut off had corroded and broken off completely. Perhaps, had I known, preventative maintenance would have preserved it - who knows. So, I proceeded to complete the connection between the resistor coil and the cut off with a paperclip.
No love.
Double checked the fuse box but all is well. I'm wondering if the paperclip conducts well enough or if I've got other problems (other than not being a mechanic, electrician etc).
Anyone's help is appreciated.
Also, my horn doesn't work.
We named it and now feel obliged to keep the damn thing alive.
DeKayDAD wrote: Had this problem on both 340s in the past.Problem both times was poor connections on the speed control resistors (not in circuit for high speed) this unit is as big as a matchbox with three spade terminals on it. It is located in the air ducting next to the fan. You split the ducting by removing the spring clips resistor is tucked out of sight inside. Clean contacts with wire wool or similar and close spades up with pliers.
. Before anyone goes taking out half the dashboard to get at the fan, I suggest that you try this. 
In my case, it seems that all the fan needed was a bit of persuasion and heat to get rid of the dampness.
Had this problem on both 340s in the past.Problem both times was poor connections on the speed control resistors (not in circuit for high speed) this unit is as big as a matchbox with three spade terminals on it. It is located in the air ducting next to the fan. You split the ducting by removing the spring clips resistor is tucked out of sight inside. Clean contacts with wire wool or similar and close spades up with pliers.
