Thanks peeps
Recommended Gearbox and Diff oils?
- griffo20022
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- Location: Wolverhampton, UK
Recommended Gearbox and Diff oils?
Can anybody recommend a decent gearbox oil and diff oil? Also places where to get it from? I fancy doing a fluid change before a practice day next week. Also has anybody used a molyslip additive with a gearbox oil change before? I know the volvo uses a different oil to usual cars so just wondered if the additive went down well with the oil needed in these gearboxes??
Thanks peeps
Thanks peeps
'90 340 1.4 Vince!
'94 BMW 325i Saloon
'94 BMW 325i Saloon
- filthyjohn
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Didn't someone say we should use 40w magnatec? Was it Shimon? The idea of using 40w in a gearbox might seem like insanity, but I seem to remember there was some plausible science behind it.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
- trabitom99
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Yeah, it was discussed here:
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 9&start=15
Interesting, that Volvo should now recommend 10w-40 magnatec for 300 gearboxes ...
Tom
http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 9&start=15
Interesting, that Volvo should now recommend 10w-40 magnatec for 300 gearboxes ...
Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
- filthyjohn
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- trabitom99
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Volvo sales manager to Volvo chief engineer down the pub: "Hey, how about making things difficult for those lethargic old caravan-towers by drying up the parts supply?"
Chief engineer: "Great idea, and if that doesn't kill 'em off, we'll start recommending the wrong lubricants!"
What a brainwave
Tom
Chief engineer: "Great idea, and if that doesn't kill 'em off, we'll start recommending the wrong lubricants!"
What a brainwave
Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
- griffo20022
- Posts: 576
- Joined: 01 Sep 2007 03:12 pm
- Location: Wolverhampton, UK
lol, sounds logical lmao!
Well I gave Opie Oils a call today and they quoted me 2 code numbers.
GL410 for the gearbox and GL590 for the diff. Had a word with my mechanic mate who seems to understand the numbers aswell so i'll be going to midwest parts tomorrow to see if they have got both types in and get em in at some point this week
Well I gave Opie Oils a call today and they quoted me 2 code numbers.
GL410 for the gearbox and GL590 for the diff. Had a word with my mechanic mate who seems to understand the numbers aswell so i'll be going to midwest parts tomorrow to see if they have got both types in and get em in at some point this week
'90 340 1.4 Vince!
'94 BMW 325i Saloon
'94 BMW 325i Saloon
info from Mac
As far as manual g/box oil - don't get too wrapped up in the issue. Originally the manual box used 10w 40 engine oil in most markets with ATF F used in Nordic markets to give acceptable gearshift qualities. (a 0w 5 engine oil would have been just as good if available in 1980). If you "forget" about the suffix F, A, H, D, A/A etc. and just think ATF you won't go far wrong. The problem was gearshift forces being high and shift quality being c**p especially in cold temperatures. The very first manual cars used engine oil then rapidly were changed to ATF (of the then prevailing common type).
ATF suffixes denote changes to additive packages for varying performance in "coventional" auto boxes and generally have no relevance to use in manual transmissions (in an auto the oil not only lubricates but acts as the primary cooling medium and must also preserve the many seals and 'o' rings in the valve blocks). The oil additives are also used to modify the various hydraulic clutch engagement and slip characteristics.
There never was specific change over points from F to A/A or whathaveyou - ATF was being used as a high quality low viscosity oil. (qualities above that are simply not needed in a manual box).
Of interest type F was formuated for Ford in 1967 as a high friction fluid to speed hydraulc clutch engagement on their specific auto boxes. Type A & A/A were designed as "universal" fluids to be compatible with early Dexron fluid in some GM boxes.
The last "official" spec. in the "Green Books" was to use Type A/A but you will do no harm by using any ATF. If a high mileage box became noisy you could even go back to engine oil if you wished !!
Hope the abve helps,
All the best - Mac.
As far as manual g/box oil - don't get too wrapped up in the issue. Originally the manual box used 10w 40 engine oil in most markets with ATF F used in Nordic markets to give acceptable gearshift qualities. (a 0w 5 engine oil would have been just as good if available in 1980). If you "forget" about the suffix F, A, H, D, A/A etc. and just think ATF you won't go far wrong. The problem was gearshift forces being high and shift quality being c**p especially in cold temperatures. The very first manual cars used engine oil then rapidly were changed to ATF (of the then prevailing common type).
ATF suffixes denote changes to additive packages for varying performance in "coventional" auto boxes and generally have no relevance to use in manual transmissions (in an auto the oil not only lubricates but acts as the primary cooling medium and must also preserve the many seals and 'o' rings in the valve blocks). The oil additives are also used to modify the various hydraulic clutch engagement and slip characteristics.
There never was specific change over points from F to A/A or whathaveyou - ATF was being used as a high quality low viscosity oil. (qualities above that are simply not needed in a manual box).
Of interest type F was formuated for Ford in 1967 as a high friction fluid to speed hydraulc clutch engagement on their specific auto boxes. Type A & A/A were designed as "universal" fluids to be compatible with early Dexron fluid in some GM boxes.
The last "official" spec. in the "Green Books" was to use Type A/A but you will do no harm by using any ATF. If a high mileage box became noisy you could even go back to engine oil if you wished !!
Hope the abve helps,
All the best - Mac.
Enjoy your 300s
- filthyjohn
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- petefarrell360
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Spot on info from Mac, cheers Shimon for posting it.
That means the ATF I bought, before having the full suffix info is in fact ok then! I was getting a little worried and hadn't done the change for that reason and a lack of time!
Pete
That means the ATF I bought, before having the full suffix info is in fact ok then! I was getting a little worried and hadn't done the change for that reason and a lack of time!
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
- griffo20022
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