I used Tarox grooved discs and EBC pads as the
stock brakes used to heat up and I had to reface the discs every month

Hello Julios.
Those tarox grooved disks you are using.
What did those things cost?
Which Order nr. did they have?Maybe i can find out what they cost in Holland.
I'm looking for the same sort of thing.
Only "now" in combination with ferodo ds2500 pads.
And its a 340 so i'am putting bigger 360 brake Drums on the back.
Greets
Andries

Try this link to get info on discs and pads.
http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/pages/sbv ... tType=BRT0
1

Thanks!

Black Diamond also make drilled and grooved discs, you can
see them here as well as some other 360 stuff. www.motorsportworld.co.uk
kind regards,
Alex

Just been looking through old posts. Feck me those discs are big money. It makes me wounder if there would be intrest in groved discs at a sensible price( I feel a group buy coming on ).
£80 odd is a let of money just for a pair of soddin discs I recon. But saying that it is a good way to impove the brakes.

Dai

Only ventilated discs will do, other are like throwing money away, at least if usage is like mine. I have solid discs with race pads and I got discs way too hot, lost brakes and destroyed pads, with stock pads brakes lasted 1 lap, with race pads brakes did last 5 laps.

Opel discs and 240 calipers are those that I'm planning to install, when I get money.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get some good pictures of the vented discs on Beast, lots of different speculation going on there... I didn't realise the Tar-ox and black dimond did 300 stuff, but then I guess I havn't looked...

Strange..I have allways thought that the std brakes did remarkably well on such a heavy car. When we first started tracking the car there simply was no money for better pads etc, so we used the std stuff and hoped for the best.

In short: The std brakes held up perfectly and didn't start fading untill the very last session of the day. This is a track-360 on semi-slicks and the cup-suspension (koni's+springs). Only negative aspect that I can think of is they lack some braking power to properly handle slick tires. I can't imagine ruining a set of these brakes in just one lap..what do you do to them!? The stock setup even survived several laps of the nordschleiffe.

What exactly do you mean by vented discs? The disc type with vents in the middle or crossgrooved discs? The story above applies to vented-non grooved discs.

We now ride on new discs, mintex pads (use the peugeot 405 type, fits perfectly) and Dot 5.1 fluid. Brakeducts from the front of the car to the callipers work wonders on almost no budget. Change the fluid before every racing day, it seems to be the first to fail.

Vented disc is a disc with vents in the middle. Like in the pic below.

Stock brake discs in 300-series are all solid so they heat up easily in track use what I have heard.

Brake temps will go nicely up at end of long straight, there is downhill braking from 160kph to around 100kph, and rest of track is quite low speed, around 130kph at max two corners under 70 kph rest around 80kph, I think it is just that brakes are needed really hard and there is no many places them to cool down.

First pads and discs got too hot, around lap later brake fluid wen't hot too, so needed to ease a bit, actually it was braking from 130kph to 80kph, tight left right chicane where my brake fluid decided that enough is enough, I took that corner bit faster then, jumped over curbs, but no harm done.

I leave braking also quite late as I need to get tail bit out too, I do it by braking short and throwing car in quite aggresively, then I keep it lined with throttle, I get around corners much faster this way than I do in previous video that I have. Too bad is that brakes can't take it more than about 6 laps.

Oh, you should see my tyres, fronts specially have threads partly melted together

I just tryed to keep up with that BMW that has funny M-badge, I braked equal and my entry was faster but exit was problem with my one rear wheel spinning in air

Hmm indeed strange..have the non-ventilated discs as well and no troubles at all...even the stock pads seemed to be able to keep up if I took it a little easier. Maybe the brake ducts are making the difference..have you tried them out?

Can't say that were driving really slowly either..Within 5% of the fastest time set by the cup racers on the same track. Without negative camber modifications and some tire rubbing issues.

Are you sure that you didn't just hunt down a 316i with M badge (aka 90% of all BMW's in Holland). A real M3 is far superior to any 360 in almost every respect....Guess it helps that 360's are dirt cheap so that we can run them as if we stole'em

I think that it was 325i with some suspension work done, almost no bodyroll when he took corner same speed that my best possible speed was (I had one rear tyre almost at air).

He had lot more power and both rear tires had grip at exit of corner

It is really rare to see M3 on track that is pushed to even 70%.

I have not yet build air ducts for brakes, I have these mud guards or actually one at place and those are needed to be removed to get good airflow to brake discs.

I locked front wheel few times also so there is now even some braking power, with stock pads I locked only rears and that was not fun at all as you know

What wheels are you using. I found the alloys have made a big diffence to temps when pushing my car.

Dai

<------ Original 14" GLT alloys, more open wheel would make it better, but I have no money for new wheels either