cut out and doesn't start

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scandiflik
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cut out and doesn't start

Post by scandiflik »

sat at a junction the other day the car cut out without warning. it refused to re-start or show any sign of wanting to. i have checked for spark, of wich there is none.
i have checked and cleaned the connectors, relays and fuses that might have something to do with fuel/spark. still nothing.
i read on here about the renix being a common problem so i tested it for power in and out. there was an ign live in that was working but no live coming out to the dizzy. i changed the coil pack on the top of the renix as the local autofactor had one. this had no effect.
can anyone shed any light onto this as im stuck. i need the car fixed by monday and no local scrap yards have any 360 glt's for me to pillage one from.
are there any more things i could try? is the renix fixable?
help! :cry:
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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C »

It's most likely not the renix, try taking out the crank sensor on the bellhousing (follow the wire from the 2 pin plug on the renix) and check the resistance with the green books on this site, and also make sure its not caked in mud etc!
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'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 »

If it is a 360 GLT EFI then have you checked the auxillary fuse box behind the battery, as there are fuses for the front fogs and fuel injection pump? These are notorious for corroding, and give a similar symptom, cutting out and non starting, often after hitting a bump or something of the sorts. Give those a clean up and see how that fares. It is very rare for the renix untis to fail.

Having no spark though does lead eventually to the renix. Pettaw's advice in this situation is to watch the rev counter needle on cranking the car, does it twitch and lift slightly, if so the renix is functioning ok from memory.

I have had a problem with the car cutting out due to a pair of spade connectors on the postive lead of the battery corroding, I never had chance to see if this affected the spark or not, but either way, it wouldn't run, and would miss, so I'm assuming it did, I managed to locate it before getting that deep in investigating it.

So from the postive terminal on the battery, trace it back until you find a black plastic cover, not far from the battery, undo this to uncover two spade connector type connections, take them apart and give them a clean to see how that goes.

Failing that, I've got a 411 A somewhere which would be for a 1987 onwards GLT and I'm located in Bucks. What year is yours?

Pete
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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C »

petefarrell360 wrote:Having no spark though does lead eventually to the renix. Pettaw's advice in this situation is to watch the rev counter needle on cranking the car, does it twitch and lift slightly, if so the renix is functioning ok from memory.
The rev counter won't twitch if the crank sensor isn't seeing the flywheel though mate, so no twitch will suggest either renix, renix wiring, or CPS.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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Post by classicswede »

The crank senser will normaly give intermitant spark rather that total failure.

When you say no spark is that at teh plug or king lead? If you have no spark at the plug check teh king lead as it could be cap/rotor causing the problem
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Ronnie
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Post by Ronnie »

petefarrell360 wrote:have you checked the auxillary fuse box behind the battery
This is the first place I'd check too
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scandiflik
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Post by scandiflik »

cheers for the replies so far.
i have checked the fuse box by the battery, its fine. there is no spark at the plug or any power at the main coil renix thing. all the other connectors are clean and ok. i think the crank position sensor sounds plausible, not sure if the tacho jumps. the car is at my garage a little way away so i cant nip out and check too easily.
pete, if i have no luck soon, would it be possible to nip by and buy the renix off you? i really need the car back yesterday :(
scandiflik
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Post by scandiflik »

oh its a 1988 glt efi by the way.
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trabitom99
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Post by trabitom99 »

petefarrell360 wrote:It is very rare for the renix untis to fail.
I dunno, Pete, I've had two fail on me (both 411's BTW).

Tom
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scandiflik
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Post by scandiflik »

the problem seems to be permanent, the spark has not come back at all. i had to get recovered after abandoning it and trying to fix it the next day. would this point to the renix more?
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Jason B
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Post by Jason B »

Definitely check to see if its the crankshaft sensor, if not you can take the top off the renix and see if it looks bad inside. Failing that I'm sure someone on here has the correct values for you to check for with a multimeter.
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scandiflik
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Post by scandiflik »

i have no idea what to do with a multimeter, they scare and confuse me :roll:
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Post by classicswede »

scandiflik wrote:cheers for the replies so far.
i have checked the fuse box by the battery, its fine. there is no spark at the plug or any power at the main coil renix thing. :(
are you saying are nor getting a live feed to the renix? If are not getting live on (from memory the red wire?) 3 pin connectro then that points to a fuse/bad connection.
If a multimeter scares you use a test lamp to check it.
Dai

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scandiflik
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Post by scandiflik »

yeah i used a test light and there is a live feed into it from the 3 pin plug. there is no live out to the dizzy cap though.
classicswede
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Post by classicswede »

Ok so that limits it down to either the renix unit or crank sensor. Multi meter is only way to test the crank sensor without swapping parts out.
Dai

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