Hi, more problems. Please read all of this. I have fuelling issues with my '84 360 2.0 carb.

I have replaced the fuel pump as mentioned in a previous thread.

The carb is now getting fuel no problem but the engine struggles to start - I need to squirt easy start into the carb to get it to fire, then it will idle for a few seconds and cut out - regardless of choke position or revs.

The choke cable appears to be broken (stretched?) so it has to be adjusted from under the bonnet. I have been setting the fast idles at 2000-2500 rpm and then reducing to 1400/1500 when warm.
This is the lowest it will idle, so I need to adjust the idle screw on the carb also? As we think it should idle (warm) at more like 900 rpm?

I managed to get it away after approx. 20 mins and drove down the road, after about 1/2 mile it bogged down and cut out. Fired it back up, got maybe 10 metres further and it was chugging again and cut out so I parked it up.

A mate of mine came to help me about 15-20 mins later. We tried the car and it worked, so attempted to drive home. Got half way there and it bogged down/cut out again. If it is restarted straight away and revved up it will bog down and cut out but it will idle fine, yet when left (10 mins again) it works once more be it only for a very short while.

We noticed that the temperature compensator had only 1 of its 2 screws, and was hanging off. I tightened up the screw and it possibly helped it run, but I can't be sure?
Can anyone show me where the fuel mixture screw is to adjust the fuelling? My mates theory is that as the car had a weak fuel pump when I bought it that the fuelling had been turned up to compensate and now it is getting far too much and flooding?

I need to remove the spark plugs and inspect to see if they are sooted up.

Also is the engine meant to have a Solex carb? Some info. I got with the car says the engine should run a Zenith carb.

Any help appreciated, this is my daily driver and is pissing me off. If I can get it to idle/drive without bogging down I will be pretty happy at the minute - regardless of fuel consumption.

Apologies for the essay but I am pretty stuck here and would appreciate some help!

*edit. double post.

I would say that any adjustment before actually curing real problem is just faking it to run.

Idle mixture screw is that one which is located deep inside of hole at carb base:


I believe Solex carb came with B200K and that was perhaps around 1985, B19 had probably some other carb, can't remember very well at the moment, too tired as should be at bed already

Idle RPM is adjusted from screw that limits throttle pulley movement, big screw at near right edge of photo:


But all those trouble you are having sounds to me like you would have vacuum leak somewhere between throttle butterfly and intake valve, probably carb base or gasket betweeb intake manifold and cylinder head. Of course as you had trouble with brakes too (or is my memory playing tricks again?) it could be vacuum servo too.

Hard to say as car has stood long time, if you take time and do carb first then you could check if blocking brake servo hose helps at all and also check that manifold gasket, not very difficult job if bolts are not seized.

Here is what I mean with carb base being warped:


If any air is sucked from there it won't run properly and it won't idle as it should.

Also check this part, cracks are not very good thing:
http://www.janiervast.com/kuvat/volvo/p ... G_4312.JPG

Is it that type of carb you have or is it it simailar to the su/peirburg carb you have?

Hmm, his car is '84 so it is perhaps either B19A or rare B19K engine, B200 engines did arrive '85 models, so if it is late '84 then it could be B200 already.

If carb does not look anything like in my pics, then it is B19 and as manual says that it should be zenith carb then it is B19A, imo.

Very good engine if one likes to convert to injection and add turbo

Anyway basics with carbs are same, only location of stuff is different and some carbs have quite different amount of stuff, but basic idea is that no dirt, all settings should be adjusted to base settings after cleaning and rebuilding, most importantly make sure that there is no air getting to intake manifold between throttle butterfly and intake valve...

That is bit rare car, if it is with B19, imo. There are not many 360s of that age left, specially if body is in good condition, most of them (almost all) are with B200 engines.

You mention temperature compensator so I'm guessing you've got the 175 CD carb on the earlier models. (Maybe its a CD175 for the pedants out there) Anyway, you need a special tool for the mixture adjustment, but before that, you can get some adjustment with the large screw on the side of the carb.

The idle speed is set with the screw near the fuel cut off solenoid on the manifold itself and as you say should be set to approx 900. Set the fast idle on the choke to however much you need it to get the thing to idle from cold properly. There is a factory adjustment procedure but as the choke cam wears and gets loose it gets pretty irrelevent. Basically as long as the throttle is clear to completely shut when the choke's off then that's fine.

Hope that helps. Sounds as though its been fiddled with big time, so get the idle adjustments correct first and then come back to us.

Hi guys. sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Had a busy last few days trying to get this damn thing running! Albeit with no success!

I will attempt to answer your questions first, then I shall update the situation lol

classicswede I have a STROMBERG CD 175 carb mate. As seen here http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/Stromberg.html
jtbo That is a different carb to the one I have mate, but thanks for the info. hopefully I can still use some of it lol. There are no leaks where carb bolts to inlet or inlet to head, I have a couple of random looking vacuum pipes which don't seem to be 100% correct (shall upload pics when I get them from my mates camera) thankfully I also have no cracks!
You are correct, it seems it is the B19A engine mate. Nice news on the injection and turbo front lol but I would be overjoyed if it would just run at the minute!
I never realised the car is as rare as you say mate, this explains why I could not get HT leads anywhere for days! 4 sets later I have some that fit, but still can not get a long enough king lead lol
pettaw Cheers for that mate, you are right it is a CD 175, I have located the idle screw thanks to your info, and I now see what you mean about the 'special tool' Thanks mate.


Right, here is where I am up to at the minute. Last night I stripped and cleaned the carb, lots of crap inside of it! Seemed like solidified old fuel? Same stuff that was in the original fuel pump.

Is it possible to rebuild it with DIY gaskets? (gasket paste and gasket paper) Or do I need the official gaskets?

One thing we noticed when stripping/cleaning the carb was that the metering needle was stuck solid in the piston at first, but after some careful cleaning/persuasion it freed up and would move in/out as I assume it is supposed to when the piston travels up/down?

I have also won another Stromberg CD 175 on eBay, and intended to use this as spare parts or rebuild it off the car then change them over. Now however I am thinking I may need to run this one instead of my own? I am hoping that as the car has been sitting for years that I have dislodged some crap inside, causing it not to run, and that a good clean will do it the world of good?

Needless to say it was absolutely disgusting inside of the carb. I have stripped everything from it except the throttle linkage/butterfly and the main body of the temperature compensator. Blasted it through with compressed air and cleaned with carb cleaner/toothbrush/cotton buds etc.

Am I right in thinking that the needle valve (no. 33) here http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/Stromberg.html is the fuel jet?

Also I have been under the car and attempted to change the rear (fabric) fuel hoses, this looks like a nightmare and as long as it is not required at present I will leave it until we have better weather!

This weekend the car has had new HT leads (not king lead) plugs, rotor arm, distributor cap and air filter.

We have also attempted to run the car from a jerry can, bypassing the fuel tanks and lines. Incase that was at fault. Again, same symptoms, won't start! The car will run (badly) when spraying carb cleaner or easy start into the carb however.

Thanks for all of the replies and please keep them coming! Liam.

all of the volvos seem to be coming down with this non run problem latly.

A good service fixed mine better but i still have a wee problem with exhaust.

Chances are the carb will be fueling way off. You can just bolt on a carb off an early 240, 140 or even an amazon. You can buy new needles and jets quite cheaply off the carburettor specialists

Man, if an Amazon carb will work now I know I have an old car LOL Also it's good to know that needles and jets can be acquired cheaply Maybe even a rebuild kit lol I also now know which is the fuel jet lol

BTW she is alive Guess it was all clogged up with sh1t!

I need to sort a couple of vacuum pipes (pics to follow) and then I think a good long drive is required!

Thanks again everyone

Pics lol



This little valve has me confused now, the black entry/exit on the side had nothing attached to it, however we found a pipe coming from the inlet which has been bodged to fit inside of it (bad fit) also it is made of pressurised air line hose so it is wrong fort he job.

What does this valve? do and where should the associated pipes lead to please?
I also need to replace my brake servo - inlet vacuum pipe as we noticed it has collapsed at the inlet end - just happened.

I also have two more pics for you lol

Is this correct? It seems as though the pipe from the middle (top) of the carb (here) should be pushed inside of here?

Thanks once more, hopefully after replacing a few pipes she should be a lot more reliable!

Rear fabric covered fuel hoses can be bit annoying, two of them you can do from inside of car, from fuel gauge sender hole under rear seat and for two other ones you need to get under the car and remove metal cover plate that is under fuel tank/transmission, then you can see two fuel hoses and gain access to them, without removing that plate I would say it is fairly impossible.

I think that your carb is better than this Solex crap most of cars did have as your carb is not so sensitive to problems. When fuel gets old it surely does make lot of trouble, good cleaning does wonders. I had also trouble with needle valve, with good cleaning I got it to work, but I believe that I need new one as it still sometimes likes to stick a bit and that causes bad running, drying mostly, rarely flooding.

I don't know if 240 dizzy leads would fit, I guess that on some models dizzy was in same location as in 300.

Nice to hear that you got car running again

I have not much of ideas from those hoses, some really does not make sense to me and I get feeling those could be someone's DIY experiments

Thanks for that mate, yeah the hoses surely do look like bodges lol

Did you rebuild your carb then seeing as you had similar problems? Glad you got sorted also, the cheap fixes are always the best

I will have a go at changing the two fuel hoses that can be accessed from the top, I am sure when I looked previously that I could only see one pipe, but that was without removing the inspection cover. Another job for tomorrow

How is you car coming along? I see in your sig you also have a car that has been laid up for a long while. Do you have a WIP?

Liam

The 240 leads will fit but the king lead is totaly different.

As to the pipes without being able to see it properly its hard to say how it should all go.

Do I need to get a custom king lead? IIRC it's 855mm long, the one that came with the leads, whatever they are from is ITRO 555mm. The longest I could find!

I will get some better bay pics mate, then hopefully you can help me I.D the odd pipes! I won a Haynes manual on the bay tonight so that should help me no end lol