http://www.janiervast.com/videot/winter ... ppery2.avi 22MB and 3,5 minutes, nothing special, you can see how bad my tires are.

Here is same video, but much smaller picture, 160xsomething it is.... 9MB
http://www.janiervast.com/videot/winter ... _small.avi

i want snow!!!


which light is that on your dashboard?

Choke light, my carburettor is not ok and I need to keep little choke on or else it will hesitate when I push throttle from low rpm. 3 months waiting and then I hope to get fuel injection installed, if I have enough money by then, almost all parts are gathered so looks positive.

sounds like your carb is loose, see my post re b14s.

Sorry, it is not that, already cheked.

Actually I have cheked/and fixed these:
Gasket between engine and intake -replaced
Gasket between carb and intake -replaced
All bolts from carb to intake -ok
Acceleration enrichment part in carb -replaced
Valve clearance -adjusted
Vacuum leaks from carb and intake -checked and repaired
Sparkplugs and wires replaced also distributor cap and part inside replaced
Carb is also cleaned from inside and outside
Mixture has been adjusted by professionals, several times. CO is 2.5 now, adjusted by me, professional adjusted it to 0,2....

With all this I have got little better low rpm behaviour and it burns now more fuel, increased from 8.5l/100km to 11.5l/100km

Now I just wait to get rest of parts to my injection project, then I will try to throw carb to WR distance

But you are right, for some odd reason it runs lean at low rpms, little choke and it runs ok. Higher rpms it runs ok.

I know around 10 solex owner that has same problem, it acts like running lean, but idle is ok and also emissions are ok. Something between idle and mid rpm is wrong, but nobody has yet to be able to find out what it is. Many guys have just changed carb to other and no problems. Maybe it wears out or something...

And what do you know, there was some screws not very tight, but not quite loose even those were checked by professional

I tightened all that I could find and now it is more powerful at higher rpm but it does hesitate much more and also if I drive 80kph with 5th gear engine jerks 1-2 times per second, when I pull little choke on it runs ok, so I think that now it is even more lean even idle did drop a bit ? Sounds impossible, it should be rich and then it should just miss power.

I hate carbs, those are something like magic, ecu controlled fuel injection is better, you set values and those will be values that are used, not any mysterious things

Carbs are a beautiful thing...but the Solex CISACs are supposedly fairly poor quality. I think a fair chunk of my misfiring problem is due to a worn carb. Do bear in mind that injection components wear out, and a new air mass meter is £300 or so - the most reliable solution is mechanical fuel injection (but it's also quite nasty!)

cheers

James

foggyjames wrote:Carbs are a beautiful thing...but the Solex CISACs are supposedly fairly poor quality. I think a fair chunk of my misfiring problem is due to a worn carb. Do bear in mind that injection components wear out, and a new air mass meter is £300 or so - the most reliable solution is mechanical fuel injection (but it's also quite nasty!)

cheers

James

I will not fit air mass meter

In picture from that link is my ecu, below ic labeled "megasquirt" there you can see MAP sensor, that will do part of air mass meter's job. Other is intake air temperature sensor that I will still need to buy.
http://www.janiervast.com/projekti/kuva ... _0959p.jpg

Still uncertain if I will have it ready for summer as I'm on low budget, also bought that lsd too so injection project will be delayed again one month.
I do have intake manifold, injectors and stuff like that already, so it is not far from building time

Another picture here:
http://www.janiervast.com/projekti/kuva ... _0958p.jpg

Sure, but what I mean is that if something in an injection system fails, and you replace it with a NEW part, it's even more expensive than a new carb! Ultimately no fuel system lasts for ever.

I'm following your MS installation with interest. How are you going to tune it - dyno, or wideband O2 sensor? Or something else

cheers

James

I have some basemaps somewhere in my computer and I'm going to adjust with those first, also little fine tuning with seat dyno , then after that new version of megasquirt comes out I will change to Wideband O2 sensor and add also ignition control to it. Perhaps next winter.

Probably I will also go to some car repair shop where I can do emission test and little adjustment mostly to idle so every years inspection will pass

It is now running so much off from 14.7:1 that I don't think it will be much worse if I don't do professional tuning very soon.

Best thing with Megasquirt is that I can install wilder cam and it still is economical in daily use and after I load new program it is beater at track days, lol.

All building is done at parking lot and little machinery needed when I fit intake manifold so that I will leave to experts.

You'll need to re-adjust the CO setting again, because if you did it with an air leak, then it will have drastically altered now.

Thx from helping.
I had already adjusted CO setting. Hesitation has not changed, but
I have heard that cleaning the carb and fitting repair set would cure it.
However repair sets were made by Solex that is no more, so no more those repair sets available.
Odd thing is that I need to turn carb much richer, so when I tighened bolts it got more lean. I was careful not to overdo tightening as there is parts that could take some damage from it.
I could not find any vacuum leaks.

Also repairing would mean another 100-150 euros to carb, I can get lambda and fuel pump for that money

I'm getting worried about rebuilding my ADDHE's for this reason - parts seem to be in short supply!

cheers

James

Conversion from carbs to Megasquirt Efi would cost around 1000 euros. Depending very much from how much you can do it yourself and what price you can get injection intake manifold and other parts.

You will need at least following parts:
Intake manifold, Volvo part 1000552
Fuel injectors 4pcs
Fuel rail
Throttle body for Intake Manifold
Fuel pressure regulator
Throttle cable
Injection wiring harness.
Those mentioned above is best to buy in one piece, from junkyard GLT for example.

Fuelpump from fuel injection car, I buy a new one, but I think that used will do.
Megasquirt kit, that includes also map sensor
Wires, lot of
You can use existing cylinder head temp sensor, software need just little adjustment.
Intake air temp sensor.
Throttle position sensor, one from Volvo 850 10valve should be ok.

Then you need to mod carb version cylinder head a bit, into carb has coolant circulation, you need to block these holes from cylinder head. I think this is hardest part of project, I will buy this service from company that has experience from engine works.

Optional
Lambda sensor, recommended though


I hope that I did not forgot something here 'sm14'

Then of course little bit of welding, small tip welding device recommended and also some wiring needed to car.

I'm not very familiar with cars tech side, either with electronics, but I take this project as lesson into new world. I think that I have 50-60% chance to make it to work

Here is some more information that I found interesting:
http://1800philes.com/tuning_article.html

I'm not at all sure about the coolant business. That is true on the B21A, and may well be true on the B19A, but I don't think it's the case on the B200.

cheers

James