340, 1.7, 2l block ignition timing problems

[patch79]

Ive got my 2l engine up and running, using all the bits from the 1.7 but with the 2l bottem end from a 460, the problem is it pinks and when i turn the ignition off it runs on till i stall it. Im using a 2l timing belt, like i said it runs and hasn't knocked any vavles and ive done about 10 miles so that doesn't seem to be the problem its also got even enough compresion on all four cylinders. the coil pack ive got has the vacum advance on the bottem of it, if i remove the vacum pipe it doesnt really pink and doesn't run on but is totally gutless, to be honest its disapointingly guttless all the time, has anyone got any ideas where ive gone wrong?

[Chris_C]

Are you just using a 2.0 bottom end? Which head (I take that to be 1.7 I think, but best check), what cam and how are you fuelling it? Which renix did you put in?

I'd imagine you'll have to do something vaguely imaginative to get that lot timed correctly

[patch79]

The car is origanally a 343 1.4 i used all the parts out of a carb'ed f reg 89 1.7 wiring loom, coil pack, bell housing, position sensor, head and cam, everything except the bottem end, that came from a 2l n reg 96 460, the block basicly looks identical just a bit taller, the timing marks on the new belt for the 2l got me a bit, they take about 8 full turns of the cam shaft to come back into line, i checked the cam shaft sproket and the crankshaft one there the same size on the 2 engines the heads on both were the same hight, only the block was taller, so i'm fairly sure it should work with the 1.7 head on that block. your probably right on the imaganative bit, i was thinking of getting the bottem end to tdc then getting the valves on number one in the right position by eye marking it all up and just giving it a go, i can then move it one tooth back or forward, which ever has best results. I should of just gone for the easy option and put the 1.7 in complete

[Chris_C]

I'd be tempted (if it's possible...) to run the 2.0 head, cam and renix with the 1.7 inlet manifold... I'm pretty sure the flange patterns are the same but that would need checking. Then it's just a case of re jetting a carb of some description to fit. Even easier is convert your car to FI, and run the 2.0 block with 340 sump and bellhousing!

[classicswede]

The 17 head will not work on a 2ltr engine. The compression ratio will be far to high.

Do not try and run is combination any longer unless you want a melted piston.

The 2ltr head is taller and is machined out. If you do not have a 2ltr head then I do have one spare that I am willing to sell.


You also need to change the exhaust manifold unless you fancy burning out down pipes

[patch79]

thanks for the offer, i wonder if were talking about the same engines? i comparred the heads very carefully befor i swapped them and couldn't find any difference, also i dont have silly compresion just a timing issue as far as i can tell. anyway thanks for the advice, but i had a very interesting conversation with a guy at work today, so i'm of to collect a complete and running 1.7 440 turbo car for parts tomorrow, hopefully the wiring shouldn't be to difficult, the only other problems i'm expecting are an oil return to the sump and the exhaust. no doubt there will be more when i get in to it, i'll soon find them out though I hope this one works out, it'll be the third engine ive put in the car and ive only ever driven it 8 miles. Good job there so easy to work on Thanks for the advise!!

[kaos]

the oil return is on the block.

its an F series block basically,

[Chris_C]

Oil feed and return are in the block on the turbo. I'm not convinced Dai will be confused on this issue, he was running that 2.0 engine in his misses' car for a couple of years very successfully

[classicswede]

If I get a chance I'll take some pics of a 1.7 head and a 2ltr one. The differnce will be quite clear.

Chris,

do you wan't to show him what the issues with fitting the turbo are manifold wise?

[Chris_C]

Good point! Pics are halfway down in this thread, I'll linky the thread as it explains most of the gameplan as well. Turbo is where it is because Dai remembered to think of things I didn't (I may have rung him up slightly angry over xmas as it looked like my bonnet wasn't going to fit and I was originally thinking of putting the turbo down instead of up) but the way that's done means there is space to get a heatshield to the brake master cyl, and get cooling to the turbo, and makes it easier to run a downpipe out. Plus the bonnet fits perfectly

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 07&start=0