Right then so what have i broken or am about to break?

My gearbox has become disgustingly notchy getting it into 1st mainly and not too disimilar into 2nd either, all the other gears seem fine still. Yes i've tried putting the clutch through the carpet and it still doesn't make mutch difference, it's like you almost have to force it into 1st.

Is there any adjustment on it or something like that which needs tweeking?

Cheers guys.

Sounds like a worn or loose linkage. They are generally a bit stiff into 1st and 2nd, but if the lever rattles as it's going in, it could be worn cogz. Take heart, the box is probably the strongest bit of the driveline!

Mines the same. Really got to lean on it for first. Big notch for second, everything else is smooth.
Not getting any worse I don't think. Mind you, I've only done 500 miles.

Syncro's are going. Fakes did the same so I bought a 30,000mile gearbox then just taught myself to double declutch as it was less hassle than swapping and handy to know

When you arn't moving, i.e. at traffic lights if you need first, a cheeky way to get it when it gets really bad is into 2nd or 3rd, then 1st, this seems to spin the layshaft round just enough that it goes easily.

Yeah mine does the same but it's deffinatly not as bad as my Fiesta Diesel. That wouldn't go into 1st at all (without crunching it in with half clutch).

Chris_C wrote:Syncro's are going. Fakes did the same so I bought a 30,000mile gearbox then just taught myself to double declutch as it was less hassle than swapping and handy to know

When you arn't moving, i.e. at traffic lights if you need first, a cheeky way to get it when it gets really bad is into 2nd or 3rd, then 1st, this seems to spin the layshaft round just enough that it goes easily.

Mines only got 60k on it!!!!!!
Thats not enough to goosh the syncro is it? And I drive like a vicars mam!
Double clutching seems to help for second, not first though.
Few times I've engaged second gear, lifted clutch, got no drive.
Re-clutch, neutral, second again, then drive is restored.
Any ideas. Doesn't happen regular mind.

Hmm I wouldn't think either case would be synchro's (Chris's car had 200k!). Suspect linkage (the welds can break/weaken) and/or fresh oil required. The 300's tend to get pretty neglected when it comes to gearbox/diff oil.

Agree with that, an oil change is often overlooked! Worked wonders on my GLT ...

Tom

SteveP wrote:Hmm I wouldn't think either case would be synchro's (Chris's car had 200k!). Suspect linkage (the welds can break/weaken) and/or fresh oil required. The 300's tend to get pretty neglected when it comes to gearbox/diff oil.

gearbox and diff oil was done when I got the car. 700 miles ago?

EVERYTHING was low at that point though.
All levels.

Damage?
Ecxessive wear due to insufficient lube before I got it?

Well i've a feeling it could well be the syncro then, because if you drive it "spiritedly" and chuck it into 2nd it does crunch everytime, but only when proper hacking it.

The stick doesn't rattle as it goes in so hopefully not the gears them selves.

I'll give the oil a top up/refresh and see if that helps at all.

on mine the 1-2nd gear problem turned out to be that the fork had given up the ghost. theres a small bolt that stops it traveling too far on the counter end of where the clutch cable attaches mine had worn so that the bolt could go through if it shook the right way.


this resulted in a new bell housing. also another notchy gear change problem was the cable needed tightening.

kaos wrote:on mine the 1-2nd gear problem turned out to be that the fork had given up the ghost. theres a small bolt that stops it traveling too far on the counter end of where the clutch cable attaches mine had worn so that the bolt could go through if it shook the right way.


this resulted in a new bell housing. also another notchy gear change problem was the cable needed tightening.

cheers dude.
very helpful.

I very much doubt its the gearbox at all tbh as Steve said the gearboxes with standard power are pretty bulletproof.
Its most probably the clutch dragging, and the synchros are stopping you engaging the gear because the propshaft is still spinning. Does the car go into reverse easily or do you get grinding? Grinding = dragging clutch.

On a 340 its even easier to tell. Get someone to look under the car whilst you operate the clutch. Lift the clutch in neutral and prop spins....dip the clutch and the prop should stop completely within about a second

If its not the clutch, then the second common possibility is the adjustment on the reverse gate....the bar that stops you getting reverse....you might need a little more clearance to get across as the linkages have worn. Adjustment is under the leather gaiter inside the car, under the gearstick.

The final possibility, is a wear in the gear selector inside the gearbox, but that's a very outside possibility.

Thanks Pettaw:

Er it does crunch going into reverse unless you take your time and ease it into position, my mates 240 does that aswell so i guessed it was just a gearbox trait.

By clutch dragging, what exactly does that mean, i've not heard of that before? So if it's that should i adjust it up or slacken it a little?

The reverse crunch thing is common but if you select first or second before going into reverse 99% of the time it'll go right in crunch free