it piddles oil out the top cover (oil filler/whatever) and
there is positive pressure in the crankcase(not negative as ride_on said it was meant to be!) the fumes smell of exhaust
idle is a bit rough but not to bad
its knocking, but i previously thought it was valve shimming/tappets but its getting worse fast- piston rings?
its still dieselling
ive pulled all the plugs out
1 - normal - light tan
2- normal
3 - normal
4 - black oily sooty sh!te
im getting a compression tester tomorrow, what are the readings suppose to be? im suspect No4. will be low compared to the rest.
its looking like a new engine IMHO. i just cant find a b200 anywhere local!
ive had the offer of a b19 but the insurance company is a pita and wont insure it.
Ben
* Disclaimer
One of the above statements may or may not be true - but probably not.
Knocking you say? Maybe big end bearing, that makes knocking sound, reason why it does it and why it is getting worse, maybe lubrication problem, Could it be that there is indeed something wrong with head gasket?
it is entirely possible! though ive a feeling its just the valves or piston rings but ill wait til i get inside!
as mummy has band me from driving it as she feels its unsafe i may aswell take it appart tomorrow before i go back to university. on the bus
Ben
* Disclaimer
One of the above statements may or may not be true - but probably not.
Very rare to have such problems with these engines, but a broken piston ring could explain it. I would also think its pretty unlikely the gasket can fail between the cylinder and the oil system (the only way for pressure to get in). If its not piston rings then is severe bore wear or a cracked block/head.
Are you sure its positive pressure and not just a blocked breather so the heat is creating pressure? Try pulling off the big pipe that goes to the manifold/throttle body and sucking on it with the engine off, at the same time put your hand over the open oil filler and see if you can detect your sucking.
Its not uncommon for the flame trap to block, especially the older coil type, the rear head cap (for dizzys on other cars) can pop put eventually. The flame trap sits on top of the oil separator inside the big pipe.
Edit - I see on the other thread you have already cleaned out the pipes and flame trap/separator, but you should still try the test above, especially if compression is ok. but you have an oily plug.. not good.
i know tell me about it dude, ive had / the family has had volvos for as long as i can remember. never had one die on us. engine wise anyway.
i dont think its the head gasket as im not loosing any water and theres no mayonase in the oil etc. however it could be a very small break in the oil ways as you say.
ive blown through pipes etc and theres no restriction anywhere, however i cant seem to detect a vacuum from the pipe ontop of the carb elbo (if that makes sense) the pipe that runs from the carb down to the crankcase via the flame trap. but there is a good strong vacuum on the servo pipe.
ive returned everything on the engine to standard, ie viscous cooling fan back on.
Ben
* Disclaimer
One of the above statements may or may not be true - but probably not.
I don't have vacuum on that breather bite either, at least not something I could feel with hand, it does not blow either. Any fumes in crank case should be sucked trough that pipe by carb, so when taken out from other end, ie not carb end, there should be vacuum especially when you apply some rpm.
i did check the vacuum on the servo pipe and thats good and strong. i did connect that breather pipe (the one that normally goes on the carb) to the servo pipe and it did what it was suppose to i think! the filler cap was held on with a vacuum, no oil leaks, smoke etc
i really dont wanna replace the engine but its looking more likely. once again i didnt do a compression test, but i think tomorrow aft im gona pull the head off and check for -
galvanic corrosion
head gasket oil way condition
and anything else that looks wrong!
can you reuse the head bolts? i know on the landrover you can use them 3 times. just wonderd if it was the same with these...?
Ben
* Disclaimer
One of the above statements may or may not be true - but probably not.
i did check the vacuum on the servo pipe and thats good and strong. i did connect that breather pipe (the one that normally goes on the carb) to the servo pipe and it did what it was suppose to i think! the filler cap was held on with a vacuum, no oil leaks, smoke etc
i really dont wanna replace the engine but its looking more likely. once again i didnt do a compression test, but i think tomorrow aft im gona pull the head off and check for -
galvanic corrosion
head gasket oil way condition
and anything else that looks wrong!
can you reuse the head bolts? i know on the landrover you can use them 3 times. just wonderd if it was the same with these...?
Ben
There was two kind of headbolts in these, other one you could reuse 5 times and other you could not reuse, now can't remember what was the difference, but it was in green books, check from technical resources section of this site, should be in engine pdf.
How about a BAD valve on no4? badly worn guide and oil seal... that would give you positive crankcase pressure and an oily plug, and cause dieselling, also would give low compression.
CBA wrote:How about a BAD valve on no4? badly worn guide and oil seal... that would give you positive crankcase pressure and an oily plug, and cause dieselling, also would give low compression.
Well only if the valve wasn't sealing aswell, even then it would not be exposed to the full pressure of combustion. The main problem with worn guides is sucking in oil during induction. The B200 design is such that valve guides almost never need replacing.
I have few spare heads, pretty good for weight lifting, something like 15kg maybe?
You need to take rocker cover off, remove camshaft and then remove that tappets, so that you can take off the valves, but check those valve seats even it requires some dismantling, remember also to keep all the parts in order, tappets, valves, cam shaft bearing lids, everything must be kept in order as they have some wear which matches together, put it wrong place and problem can occur. There should not be lot of differences and no clear wearing visible.
well had a look at the bores today, no sign of scoring marks etc...
however piston 1 seems to move around in the bore a 'fair bit' alot more than any of the others.
piston 2 moves more so than 3, but less than one and so on.
there is a fair bit of coke (i know im near hull but thats no excuse ) on the pistons, inside the head and inlet manifold.
there is also a half moon shape on piston 4 right at the back of the engine, ideas?
im gona be selling some bits from hte landrover to fund this!
im also looking for any performance bits i can put in the engine with out declaring it haha!
ben
* Disclaimer
One of the above statements may or may not be true - but probably not.