300 series engines do not bolt onto their gearboxes.

The 360 uses a torque tube between the gearbox and the Volvo engine, the 340 1.4 Renault Engine does not. The 340 gearbox is bolted to the chassis and not the engine. Only the prop connects the 340 gearbox to the engine.

The front of the 360 ...

Added pump to try and keep fuel supply going to pump or feedback up into swirl pot. Injecting it between the pump and tank outlet, sourcing from the lobe joiner.
Helped a little.

Swirlpot design, cat inpected
Broke off the outlet (sample was just for inspection)

Added a cover to reduce the fuel sloshing out under braking, didn't make much difference.

There were too big and/or expensive to print. In the end I just used some fibreglass sheet and used some funnels bought from DIY store for about £1 each. I might have printed the connect tube to the air feed pipes.

I have made it available on Tinkercad, 300 foglight airduct. Its not been tested.

Yes it has worked absolutely fine, I think. I did use a Sytec billet one before that but I had modified it because the bores were very small in the 12mm adaptors so I was worried about the strength. Most filters are designed for pressure side applications and are fine mesh. This one needs to be more ...

as with most volvo 360 posts this has been a few years since an update but i was wondering about the brake upgrade any tricks etc or is it mostly bolt on stuff and any specific a class i need to source the brakes from i also have a volvo 360glt with a b230ft swap :)


Yes the details are in the ...

The bias valve (power distributor) should fail with more brakes not less (which can cause dangerous rear locking), mine had siezed with rust after sitting for 15 yrs. Just replaced with a more recently used unit from a car someone was breaking. I don't know if they can fail weak.

I've also had a ...

No problem Ben, I still have 2 sets of adaptors and strengtheners. PM if you need to call or something.

Bogbasic if you want less brakes the easy thing to do is press the brake pedal less hard, but if you are locking up the rears the bias valve could be siezed.

Probably worth having a look in from the fuel sender area. You can see the cream swirl pot, which would be spotless, and the outlet pipe to the pump. Mine was rusty up round the top corners, but I welded it (after sitting empty for about 10 yrs) and used rust bullet which is moisture curing.
You ...

Usually people in the community have these as spares lying around. Have you tried facebook?

They are very reliable, have you removed the coil and checked the contacts?

According to my owners manual, 414 is the correct unit for an 87 360 B200K (I had this car). 407 is for up to 1986. The earlier ...

Steve is probably right about my sharp intake of breath assessment, but most of the car doesn't rust from the outside in. In my experience the stone chip coating comes away as a result of rust, it is not the cause. The cause is water inside the sills either by splashing or capillary as the joins are ...

andy_h wrote: 20 Jul 2020 10:07 am The only rust is on the sills, doors and surface rust in the arches. I’ve been under it with a screwdriver..

Yeah that sounds bad enough. So doors and sills are rusted through? Inner arches are ok?

What model is it and have you thoroughly checked it for rusted through parts everywhere? It will need a really good inspection and a prod with a screwdriver. Mine looked ok on the surface, and spent some time in a damp garage, it was scrap really but I saved it with a huge effort.

Remember its ...

The red block weight is better with 360 struts, camber is different.