Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

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fatuglypaapa1
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Joined: 08 Apr 2022 03:19 pm

Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by fatuglypaapa1 » 28 Jul 2022 01:30 am

Fuel pump is leaking and I'm thinking instead of just changing the gaskets or eventually the fuel pump. Why not put in an electrical one?
HOwever does anyone know if the one that Dai is selling is good enough to use without a regulator?

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bogbasic
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Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by bogbasic » 28 Jul 2022 11:11 pm

Hello, Dai's pump seems to be a low pressure one for carburettor models and therefore would not need a regulator. I bought a different pump which was about twice the price and it only lasted 18 months so I converted back to a mechanical one and never looked back. Mechanical is best if you use the car a lot. Electric is probably OK for a car that is used occassionally. I am sure that replacing the rubber parts will solve the problem.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

fatuglypaapa1
Posts: 39
Joined: 08 Apr 2022 03:19 pm

Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by fatuglypaapa1 » 29 Jul 2022 01:42 pm

Ok thank you for the info. I will roll with the mechanical one for a while then and see what I do.

I took apart the pump and noticed that the spacer had a crack in it from someone torquing it too hard. Made some new gaskets out of a milk carton and put a ton of silicone gasket paste everywhere, it stopped the leak. I do think an electrical pump would work better, but I guess it really depends on which one you buy.

Where did you install your electrical pump? Near the gas tank or up in the engine bay? THinking this might have shortened the life span of yours.

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bogbasic
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Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by bogbasic » 30 Jul 2022 12:29 am

Hello, it was in the engine bay.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

fatuglypaapa1
Posts: 39
Joined: 08 Apr 2022 03:19 pm

Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by fatuglypaapa1 » 10 Aug 2022 01:27 am

bogbasic wrote:
30 Jul 2022 12:29 am
Hello, it was in the engine bay.
I've got a question for you. Do you know what this hole in the fuel pump spacer is meant for? I made some new gaskets and I saw some gaskets with a second hole below the fuel pump pivot, and some gaskets that do not have this. What is the purpose of the second hole? I'm imagining it wouldn't make much difference if there is a hole or not there as the oil is unable to go anywhere, unless it is some type of emergency vent hole or something?
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fatuglypaapa1
Posts: 39
Joined: 08 Apr 2022 03:19 pm

Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by fatuglypaapa1 » 10 Aug 2022 12:14 pm

Man I cannot get rid of this leaking fuel pump. New gaskets and rtv, no longer leaking from the spacer but now it is leaking ever so slightly at the bottom of the fuel pump itself. And everytime I check the oil it has gone down drastically even though there is no oil other than the tiny droplets from the pump.

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bogbasic
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Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by bogbasic » 10 Aug 2022 02:43 pm

Hello man, I am afraid I don't know what the extra hole in the gasket is for. Could the diaphragm of the pump be leaking and pumping your the oil into the petrol?? Good luck with it.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

fatuglypaapa1
Posts: 39
Joined: 08 Apr 2022 03:19 pm

Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by fatuglypaapa1 » 11 Aug 2022 09:45 am

bogbasic wrote:
10 Aug 2022 02:43 pm
Hello man, I am afraid I don't know what the extra hole in the gasket is for. Could the diaphragm of the pump be leaking and pumping your the oil into the petrol?? Good luck with it.
Update: leak is minimal, if I put my finger on the bottom of the fuel pump I can feel and see 1-2 drops worth of oil. No oil in the fuel as far as I could tell either, but the oil level went back to 3/4 of MAX after resting for 12 hours, which was quite odd.

Also took apart the pcv valve and noticed that the T-junction that connects to the manifold and carb intake had been squished together by a hose clamp. Basically only half the valve was open to the carb intake hose so I'm hoping having opened it fully that the oil leak will be reduced as well.
If this keeps on I actually might trade the 340 for a volvo Amazon.

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bogbasic
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Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by bogbasic » 12 Aug 2022 02:32 pm

Hello mate, is the oil going into the antifreeze? If so it could be the head gasket. It would be worth using a compression tester to see if the piston rings are OK. Hope this helps a bit!
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

fatuglypaapa1
Posts: 39
Joined: 08 Apr 2022 03:19 pm

Re: Mechanical to electrical fuel pump conversion

Post by fatuglypaapa1 » 07 Sep 2022 02:42 am

bogbasic wrote:
12 Aug 2022 02:32 pm
Hello mate, is the oil going into the antifreeze? If so it could be the head gasket. It would be worth using a compression tester to see if the piston rings are OK. Hope this helps a bit!
Hi, I've just kept running it and keeping an eye on things. Oil seem to be fine, same for antifreeze. Fixed the PCV issue as it is now sucking rather than blowing. However one weird thing has begun to happen. If I drive the car, for let's say 5-6 hours, highway, smaller roads and in the cities. The clutch in first gear starts to act funny.

It becomes near impossible to drive off in first gear as the car shakes uncontrollably, but once I'm off everything is back to normal. I also noticed when this happens the oil level is incredibly low. However, when I let the car rest for 8-10 hours the issue is gone and oil level is back to normal.

I am suspecting a leaky rear crankshaft seal, dont remember the name. And that it is leaking oil into the bell house, but no oil can actually be seen dripping from it. I don't know how oil proof a bell house is, and I would like to imagine that the shaking and issues with the clutch would persist through all gears if this was the case. Got any idea?

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