How do i enter the engineroom from the interior?

Post by **shimon340** » 18 Mar 2005 01:49 am

Hello!!!

"shimon340>> Just to repeat it is the level 3 (maximum) speed of the fan >that doesn't work and the others do work. Yeah i understand that the >fuse holders can get rusty or corroded so it wont get contact but since i >have voltage out to the radioconnector it cant be that."

Just to check here... the fuses..... Is the heater fan on one fuse for all settings or does the manual say that the level 3 is a different fuse?

Radioconnector? do you mean the positive lead in the radio compartment or the electric connector block that attaches onto the back of the heater control panel???

I dont have any manuals with me at the moment so I cant check for you.. sorry!

>"Maybe it is the switch itself that's broken. But there's so many cables >so i would need a wiring diagram so locate it. Where did you get your >wiring diagrams? Can i buy it or download it somewhere ? Really could >use one

Ok...

Haynes has wiring diagrams

I'm going to guess that if the fan is the same fuse for levels 1,2 and level 3 then the problem is the fan switch itself. I had a 340 myself that the number 1 and 2 settings were a bit misaligned so you had to push the swithc just past number one to get level 1 working and also it would often stop when the car went over a bump.... so I think the switch itself is probably broken internally....

It is possible to remove the heater control panal and replac with a new one. But it is a bit of a big job as you need to be careful with the ventilation selector slider ( the one that selects feet, middle vents or windscreen.... )

I recently dismantled a 340 and removed this panel from the dashboard surround or heater radio unit.... however, the dashboard was already removed by this stage so Im not sure if the heater control comes out easily when the dashboard is still in the car... I suspect that it is clipped into the heater radio unit before this whole piece is installed in the car hence the only way to remove it is to take the whole dashboard out in order to acces these clips....

However,

It might be possible to access them from.... the glovebox and the side of the heater once the instrument binnacle is removed..... being volvo, it is probalby likely to be possible to get access from here... the 340 was designed to be was to service!!!!

As for the light bulbs in the instrument binnacle, Redline's advice is excellent and is the exact procedure. You need a long 24mm socket to remove the steering wheel.

When replacing, put on gently checking that the splines are aligned, then gentle push it onto the splines and replaced the bolt.

Take the wheel off in the level straight ahead position... makes it easier to put back on!!!

I hope this all helps...

check the fuse thing and get back to me here what you find...

it may indeed be the switch at fault or maybe a damaged wire in the heater panel connector block.... ( at the back of the heater control panel so difficult to access and check ( unless dashboard is removed - not actually a difficult job but make sure you remember where all the bolts and plastic bits go!! ))

I wish I could help you some more but my car isnt with me so I cant check things on it for you in order to help some more....

good luck and keep us posted what you find etc

Shimon

( hope you got the external temperature gauge working!!! )

petrol / gas tank LED it lights up when there are 2 gallons left in the tank,,, usuallu lights when the needle gets to the "E"

in order to ensure the petrol gauge works correctly and the LED lights up, you need to ensure the car has a good earth. Check the earth strap that goes from the bonnet to the front panel of the car. Also, the engine earth which goes from the engine block to the base of the battery. On most 340s over 15 yrs, this strap is broken so repair this as this will we ensure a good earth for the car and when the earth is good, the dashboard works as it should and you also avoid the car using the heater selector slider and the choke as earth cables. If the earth cables arent good, the car earths through the choke and the heater slider selector. When this happens, the extra heat warms the nylon and plastic coatings on these cables and the cable becomes stiff and the choke and sliders become stiif. These two sliders are thus good checks to see if the earth has failed on a car previously...

anyway....

hope this helps

look forward to hearing from you

Shimon

Post by **Nisse** » 18 Mar 2005 07:47 pm

Wow thanks alot for the long post, youre very kind!

Ok here's the deal. My manual says that level 1 and 2 on the fan goes on one fuse (16A) and level 3 goes together with the radio and brake-lights fuse (25A) and i have voltage to the radio connector in the panel and the brake lights work and i've looked at the fuse and it's not broken so the problem is somewhere else. It sounds odd that the switch itself has broken but it may be so, but i think i should check that all cables are ok also. I dont know how the fan is controlled but if there only is two cables direct to the fan (12V and earth) then i should be able to measure the voltage here when switching the fan into different layers to see if there is any voltage at all, because if it is then maybe the fan itself can be broken? I'll check this next time
It sounds pretty much job to get rid of the board to get to the switch so i'll do that when i know that everything else is OK.

There is so many cables above the carpet on passangers side so i got to get hold of a wiring diagram so i can see what all cables are and where they go. Haynes had one? Is he here at the forum ?

Changing the earthcable from the battery minus to the motorblock sounds like a good idea also eitherway because it looks a bit corroded and rusty.
By the way the digital termometer i mounted works perfectly i drew the sensorwire from it behind the dashbourd out through the hole next to the fuseboxhole and leaded to the front and down the bumper and mounted it around the clips to the turninglights on the right side of the bumper. I also hooked up the sensor wire in the engineroom around some other cables to make sure it won't go anywhere.

Hmm intresting you say this about wrong earthing because i saw when i removed the carpet under the steering wheel a separate red cable with a "cable shoe" that almost had melted. But i dont know if it has something to do with earth failure.

I'll return as soon as possible when i've looked more at this.
Thanks

/Nisse

Post by **petefarrell360** » 18 Mar 2005 08:29 pm

shimon340, some excellent advise there and explanations.

Nisse, another possibility could be the heater matrix. I seem to remember one of my parents cars having a problem with the fan, possibily just the 3rd setting as well. After checking the fuses, switch and all other options, our mechanic decided it was the heater matrix and replaced that, which cured the problem. I'm not sure as to the cost of the part, or it's exact location, as my Haynes manual is at work! But if you could get the part from a scrap car to try it might be worthwhile.

Pete

Post by **Nisse** » 18 Mar 2005 10:00 pm

Hmm sounds very intresting! But whats a matrix?

Edit: I measured with a multimeter the connector to the fan and on level 1 and 2 i get ~12V on it and level 3, 0V so there is no voltage out to the fan on third level.

Post by **shimon340** » 20 Mar 2005 10:11 pm

the heater matrix is a mini radiator. failure of the matrix means that you dont get any hot air in the car and they usually fail but leaking so you notice that the carpet in the footwells at the front of the car is getting damp....

a failed matrix wont stop the fan from working on level 3......

so...

looks like a switch problem or, as you say, a damaged wire to the number 3 setting circuit....

good luck trying to sort it!!

as for haynes.... this is the "Haynes manual" if you search on ebay, you will find one pretty fast!!

for example

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 24889&rd=1

search for 'volvo340' and you should find one....

keep us posted on what you discover!!

Shimon

Post by **Nisse** » 20 Mar 2005 11:54 pm

Aha ok now i know exactly what you mean by matrix just didn't know the english word

But as you say it doesn't affect the third level. Ah this is the book i've been looking for, there are many shops that have the 7- and 2- volvo series but not the 3- . So i'll have to order one i guess. I have to investigate this more when i get an actual wiring diagram. Thanks for everything so far.