There's been a bit of discussion about which hinge pin removal tools will and won't work, so I've taken some measurements off Mac's before returning it.
The business end is no longer circular, but varies between 7.45 and 7.75mm at its narrowest. The knurled bits are up to 7.85mm:
Here's a 'new and old' picture. This old pin is from the passenger door; the driver's door one was even worse:
Even with the correct tool, it wasn't entirely straightforward. I've left the bottom pins in as they didn't want to budge. It was very hard to get a good upward swing with the hammer in the confined space. I understand that it's the top hinges that wear the most though.
A big thank you to Mac for the loan and for his infinite patience. Sorry it's been so long
Last edited by Cornholio on 13 Jul 2007 03:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hmm, I'm beening a nadgers daft here... do you put the tool through the hinge pin... then smack the tool? But then surely the tool ends up in the hinge... and how does the new one get put in?
The bit you've shown there gavin would be easy to knock up on a lathe, especially with the useful measurements!
Mac posted some dead useful instructions and pics at the beginning of this thread. They show the things involved (the removal tool is actually in two parts) and how they are applied.
The mandrel in my picture goes through the hinge pin. The little bit that screws on is large enough to push the pin down, but narrow enough to fit through the hinge. The second, larger part of the tool (the forcing bar) is then held against the mandrel and whacked with a nice big hammer.
The new pin is driven in using the forcing bar, which has a nipple for holding the pin steady.
Nice one Gavin! I reckon I've got decent mandrels as you call them, I broke one, due to being hardened, they're prone to snapping if hit offline, and the replacements I've got are once again the right size. Have you got a shot of the actual 'Z' shaped cranked handle I believe the Volvo one is, as that's where the Draper effort lets the side down. As it's straight, so the clouting force goes straight through your arm supporting the bar!
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
Doh! Just referred to pics at beginning of thread from Mac, it's not cranked. I'm nearly 99% sure I've seen that a Volvo one or a hinge pin removal tool was cranked so you hit a horizontal surface, while holding a vertical bar, then was stepped, made so much sense. Seems as though this one works well, and the little locating nib for installation is a nifty and well thought out idea, something the Draper one doesn't cater for, saying that, removal was my only reason at the time, as it was a scrap car.
Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........
- broken
