Flashing headlights while the stereo is running for full

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NasoNex
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Flashing headlights while the stereo is running for full

Post by NasoNex »

Hi.

Last weekend i mounted a 600W amplifier and a 600W subwoofer into my Volvo 360, it uses a 40A fuse (connected to the battery). When the stereo is running for full i see that the headlights are flashing at the same time. (Not very much, but a bit). ( I also have a pair of extra head lights, with 2x 55W bulbs).

The "dynamo-light" in the dashboard is active most of the time, especially when i have just started the engine.


I just wondered if this could hurt the car in any way!? I realize that the
dynamo is having a hard time delivering electicity to all of this. But if i turn off the amplifier some minutes before i turn off the engine, so that the battery will have a chance to charge a bit, is there any way this could hurt my car then?

I dont have any problems starting my car, and the "dynamo-light" in the dashboard dissapears after i while if i dont push the amplifier to the maximum. Just wondered, since i dont wanna hurt my loved car :)
1987 - Volvo 360 GL B200K : 266000 km

The head nurse spoke up, and she said leave this one alone
She could tell right away, that I was bad to the bone
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5lab
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Post by 5lab »

i doubt it is good for the engine as i suspect the sparkplugs may not be sparking properly. i'd put a bigger altinator and battery on if i were you - your car will be a touch slower but it'd be the best bet
Siddy-'87 360 Glt lhd convertible
Swapsea-'89 360GLT-swapped!
Leah-'84 340GL-sold! Maisie-'85 340GL-sold!
Snowy-'88 360GLE-killed by a truck! Dougle-'89 360GLT-dead&stolen!
Nessy-'86 340GL-foggy's! Grace-'86 360GLT-gone!
wjp01908
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Post by wjp01908 »

If the dash warning light is on you are using more current than the alternator can deliver and the extra is coming from the battery. This could be efectively discharging it over a period of time dependent on loads and durations. This will reduce battery life and could leave you stranded if other factors reduce charge available for starting.

As Hugh says you need a bigger alternator.

In any case I`d be worrying about my ears rather than the car with 600w on tap.

I may be sounding like your Mum but I reckon you could probably turn it down a tad and still be able to hear it.


Will
redline
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Post by redline »

600 watts My god . Pardon , what did you say ,I think I am going deaf, why are my ears bleeding sm43 sm75 sm80 sm87
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SteveP
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Post by SteveP »

Ah but whats the true value.. I'm betting thats just a peak rating ;)
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C »

With a 40A fuse it's not gonna be too small, 12V at 40A is 480W, so could be packing quite a punch. What make and model dude?
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames »

480w draw though - no amplifier is 100% efficient ;) Probably 300wrms output, although no budget amps can truly deliver proper continuous power - that's what you pay serious £££ for. It's all in the power supply design. My 2x 150w unit has 45A peak draw, but it's not too efficient.

Bass doesn't really damage your hearing anyway - it just makes you need the toilet, and ultimately puts you in a kinda semi-trance (called catacombitis or soemthing like that). I have 2.5kW of bass on tap if I need it...albeit not in the car! Having said that, I can get both my 18" PA subs in the boot :mrgreen:

Anyway...back to the question....

Headlights dimming....beyond a point, that it somewhat unavoidable. I've never experienced that, but I've only used half of my amp (ie: 1x 150w) up until now. However, the battery light illuminating isn't too healthy, and I'd say your not drawing enough current for that to be normal.

If I were you...head to the scrap yard, and pull the alternator from a 740 or 940 - preferably one with Air Con, as this should have a 100 amp unit in it - up from 55A! Then uprate the cabling from the alternator to the battery (not forgetting the ground from the alternator too!). Finally, get yourself a battery with a larger capacity - I have a suspicion that your battery may have seen better days anyway.

What cable are you using? At 40A, you should be on at least 8 gauge - to thin, and it will cause a volt-drop, increasing distortion, and not helping your lighting situation.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
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NasoNex
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Post by NasoNex »

Its a cheap amplifier called Xzound. Sure its not 600W Rms. Thats just a dream :D I use a 8mm cable, not very good. But it works fine.

Guess i`ll buy a new alternator in the summer, when i hopefully will earn som "extra" money :)

Thanks.
1987 - Volvo 360 GL B200K : 266000 km

The head nurse spoke up, and she said leave this one alone
She could tell right away, that I was bad to the bone
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5lab
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Post by 5lab »

just get one from a big car in a scrapyard - something like a 960 v6 would do.
Siddy-'87 360 Glt lhd convertible
Swapsea-'89 360GLT-swapped!
Leah-'84 340GL-sold! Maisie-'85 340GL-sold!
Snowy-'88 360GLE-killed by a truck! Dougle-'89 360GLT-dead&stolen!
Nessy-'86 340GL-foggy's! Grace-'86 360GLT-gone!
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames »

960 (apart from the turbo) is a straight 6 :-P

Agreed on the scrap yard part though - it really shouldn't cost much at all! Don't forget the thicker wire too :)

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...
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