pettaw wrote:Yes, but bear in mind that these bolts are stretch bolts that are angle tightened until they go into plastic deformation. I would therefore change the lot of them to be on the safe side and ensure you get the correct force on them.

Stage 1: 20Nm
Stage 2: 60Nm
Stage 3: Angle tighten 90 degrees.

the bolts are not Torque To Yield (aka strech bolts) which is why volvo allow there use upto 5 times (or untill they get past a certain length)

if they were TTY you would have to replace them everytime, which isn't a bad idea but aslong as there near stock length and under the limit they should be fine, volvo bolts are torque/angle so......

to quote stealthFTI

"It is very important to remember that the TAT method, while more accurately stretching the bolt than the "Torque" method, is still a method that only stretches the bolt BELOW the Yield Point:

...TAT stretches the bolt to a percentage of yield...the bolt remains in the elastic area of tension...

'Torque To Yield' is different from 'Torque' and 'TAT' because with TTY, the goal is to tighten the bolt to the Yield Point....and actually a bit beyond that into the plastic area of stretch.

WHY? To stretch the bolt beyond the permanent elongation point seems counterproductive: you are going beyond the maximum clamping force capability to the point of over stretching the bolt."

Heads been on for about a month.. just haven't had the time/motivation to finish it.... I got to find out why its not starting now.... I got one of the other techs from work and he gave us a hand getting everything set up properly. Now I gotta check the spark plugs as we know our timings right, we have spark and injection pulse at the same time and all the hose are correct. I might have crushed the electrodes together when the head was in my boot.

Well after much hand-sitting, I've taken the tappet cover off and measured all the valve clearances, after a compression check shower 105, 130, 80 and 105 respectively.

Found all the tappet clearances out, so I went down to the local Volvo spares place and got some more shims (after measuring them of course). Problem is it's now been around 3 months since I put everything back together so forgot how much I torqued the cam journal caps/nuts down.

Does anyone have the Haynes manual handy and can tell me what the torque spec is?

I want to do it this weekend as I have bought my tools home to do my brothers silvia clutch as well, so a quick reply would be awesome.

15lb/ft or 20Nm.

cheers

James

thanks james.

hopefully when i torque it down with the new shims the clearances should be right.

About the interference on B200E engines.

All B200E engines untill 1986 are interference, they have "bumps" on the pistons, and a 10:1 compression ratio.

1987-> B200E/F engines don't have the "bump" on the pistons, and have a 9,2:1 compression ratio, and should be freespinning.