The 6V was when the wire was disconnected and the key turned to start.

Can the 6V be real? Or am I getting bad connection between the multimeter and the trigger cable.

Yeah, that 6v could well be an accurate reading. It's not exactly what I'd expect, but it probably explains your problem. Assuming the battery voltage is still healthy under cranking (if the headlights work properly for more than a few seconds, it's likely it will be ok), it looks like you're dropping a load of voltage somewhere along that trigger feed. My tired brain is struggling to work out if dropping 6v due to a high resistance contact somewhere is a sensible suggestion, mind you...!

When are you reading +12v at the battery...with everything "off"? What does the battery voltage read when you "crank" it (with the trigger wire disconnected)? Once roll-started, what does the battery voltage read?

A logical next step would be to bypass the 'trigger' wiring, exactly as you suggest.

cheers

James

I crimped a tag onto a few feet of stereo speaker cable, stuck it onto the starter solenoid, turned the ignition on, put other end of wire on battery.... started perfectly.

I'm not in the habit of stalling at intersections, so this might do me for a while. It's easier than a crank handle anyway...

Could I convert the cigarette lighter into a starter pull thing, like on a Morris Minor? The starter motor is operated separately from the ignition, turn the key, pull the starter.

It's much easier to chase the wire backwards! Test for voltage at *every* join you find for that wire, starting from the solanoid and working to the battery . When you find 12V instead of 6, you've found your problem.

All the wires are bundled together in black plastic, like heat shrink.

Is this original?

I guess I'll cut that away and follow the wire as you suggest.

There are a few wires that go nowhere that make me think an auto-electrician has fiddled with this some time. I have owned it 4.5 years.

Could it be one of the magic boxes in the fuse box, the cube shaped things? When I turn the key I hear a quiet click, two clicks, one for each key position, on and start. I think I can get replacements for almost nothing, maybe try swapping them.

Thanks for your advice on this.

Don't unbundle the wires if you don't have to. Hang on, I'll find the appropriate green book...

Right, P22 of the green book, which is p23 of the pdf
http://www.volvo300mania.com/technical/ ... agrams.pdf

You want the manual transmission diagram at the bottom of that page. In your main underbonnet fuse box, you have a piece of brass/copper bridging 2 terminals of a relay socket, as you don't have a autobox starter inhibit relay. Multimeter that for voltage first. (location is shown in p23 of the book, p24 of the pdf, where it shows a relay being removed for the autobox).

Depending on what voltage that shows, we can tell you where to take apart!

I will get onto this when time permits.

Today's little adventure:

I started it in gear this arvo and ran over my big toe. Probably if I'd kept going and run right over it, that would've been the best solution. Instead I summoned help from a passer-by, who pushed the car back. Net best option would have been to undo my shoelaces and wiggle my foot out. The end of my big toe still hurts, I have not looked at it yet. I couldn't pull my shoe out.

It was written:

"In your main underbonnet fuse box, you have a piece of brass/copper bridging 2 terminals of a relay socket, ....Multimeter that for voltage first.

Depending on what voltage that shows, we can tell you where to take apart!"

OK. I have two pieces of brass/copper bridging. Both say 0V when the key is not turned. The one labelled B (closer to the engine) reads 12V when the key is turned (from memory it says 12V both when the key is in on and start positions). The other bridge says 0V always.

Where to now?

I'll have a look at my car later to double check where the other bridge is mate. The one I was refering too (if you look at the relay box head on) should be between pins 30 and 87 (I'm pretty sure they are numbered in the fuse box, but I'll check on mine) of the socket above the gap between the left and middle multiplug.

Diagram B on page 23 of the green book above shows a relay being removed from that location.

Pin 30 is the first place the blue and yellow stripey wire goes to from the starter, so we can see if you have dropped voltage before or after that point with this test.

The bridge in position labelled C has the bridge between 30 and 87, this reads 0V always.

The other bridge is between 30 and 87a and reads 12V when the key is turned.

I'm sure people will shudder when they read this...

I have been persisting with opening the bonnet every time I start and sticking a wire onto the +ve terminal to make the starter motor go.

I had a brainwave, I added a bit to the length of my wire, ran it through the passenger door (not noticeable from outside, it goes in the space between the panels), then under a dashmat (custom piece of carpet common in Australia after the dashboard gets cooked in the sun), then it dangles down near the cigarette lighter. On the end of the wire is a nozzle from a caulking tube, the wide end pokes into the lighter, the wire is held centrally by having tape wound around it, so it hits the centre part where the 12V is.

I'll keep my eye on the wire where the passenger door opens and closes on it, but it seems to be OK, just squashed in the rubber seal.

Does anyone see a major safety issue with this?

My patience with fixing cars is a bit like Basil Fawlty hitting his car with a tree branch.

brad360 wrote:I'm sure people will shudder when they read this...

I have been persisting with opening the bonnet every time I start and sticking a wire onto the +ve terminal to make the starter motor go.

I had a brainwave, I added a bit to the length of my wire, ran it through the passenger door (not noticeable from outside, it goes in the space between the panels), then under a dashmat (custom piece of carpet common in Australia after the dashboard gets cooked in the sun), then it dangles down near the cigarette lighter. On the end of the wire is a nozzle from a caulking tube, the wide end pokes into the lighter, the wire is held centrally by having tape wound around it, so it hits the centre part where the 12V is.

I'll keep my eye on the wire where the passenger door opens and closes on it, but it seems to be OK, just squashed in the rubber seal.

Does anyone see a major safety issue with this?

My patience with fixing cars is a bit like Basil Fawlty hitting his car with a tree branch.

Wouldnt it be less work changing the starter mate?

Epic bodge though. Ten points.

It's not the starter thats the problem bud, theres a dodgy contact somewhere between the key and the solanoid.

Brad, as long as the wire doesn't dangle near anything moving, it'd work, but I'm happy to help you chase the problem again if you want!

Chris_C wrote:It's not the starter thats the problem bud, theres a dodgy contact somewhere between the key and the solanoid.

Brad, as long as the wire doesn't dangle near anything moving, it'd work, but I'm happy to help you chase the problem again if you want!

Hmmm, yeah. Probably would have paid to read the rest of the thread first.
Thatll teach me to fall behind.

I've done worse bodges, although I'd probably stick an in-line fuse in there somewhere along the line just in case...

Although as long as the car isn't actually on fire you'll probably be ok

I'd suggest a more permanent bodge at some point though.